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    I built a sub box!

    My boat came with one of the Clarion 10 inch free air subs and it actually sounded pretty good. Then Mikeski on Wakeworld got a deal on a bunch of old 12 inch JL 12W3's for $100 each. I picked up one of those and installed it and have been running it for 2 years + now just as a free air sub.

    AnHaney and I were talking and decided that it would probably sound better if I put it in a box. So Saturday I built a box. I did not take any pictures, because I am ashamed to show any of this workmanship, but I did learn a few things.

    The JL website says that the sealed enclosure should be 1.25 cu feet, but then gives dimensions for a box that is closer to 2 cubic feet in size.

    It says to use 3/4 MDF. I got half way into it and realized I was using 1/2. I think it is fine, but now I am saying...What if?

    Moving the heater was an unbeleivable PIA. I would not wish that on my worst enemy (OK, maybe I would like to see Hillary try it). AnHaney said that his heater was just sitting on his ballast tank, not even mounted or anything, now I understand why. It is pretty difficult to reach in there, even with very long arms, but too small to actually climb in there. After playing contortionist for a good while yesterday, I am pretty sore today. It helped a lot to be able to remove the sub and reach in from under the driver's seat. I ended up mounting it on it's side, and then giving it extra support from the top of the subwoofer enclosure. Those stupid clamshell style seats were not very helpful in trying to access that area.

    The wall in front of the driver's seat is not vertical. My box was perfectly square, but once I mounted it to the wall, the more foreward part of the box was 1 inch above the floor.

    As for the sound, it is difficult. I think it pounds a bit better. The previous setup basically was a 10 cubic foot ported enclosure, now I have about 1.75 cubic feet and it is sealed. The bass is tighter, and for most songs sounds better. I have a few songs that a loose rumbling base sounds really good, and I think it is just a hair less good with those. It is a challenge to know because I cannot listen to it back to back with and without the enclosure.

    Mostly I just wanted to give props to anyone who puts in those heaters, and give a healthy 'beware' to anyone who thinks you can just reach in there and pop a few screws and move it.
    Be excellent to one another.

    #2
    Sounds cool dude. So Birth'n babies is easier huh

    If you exclude the outer dimensions and just measure the inner dimensions, you may find it closer to the 1.25 cuft.


    You gotta post some pics man we dont care what it looks like
    Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

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      #3
      And subtract the woofer displacement.
      http://www.wakeboatworld.com
      []) [] []V[] [])

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        #4
        Originally posted by chpthril View Post
        You gotta post some pics man we dont care what it looks like
        These would be downright embarrassing.

        Good thought on the woofer displacement. There is a giant magnet in there.

        I did not want my door to be blocked by the box, so I made it taller and narrower, so my cubic feet are about the same as what they had in their measurements. My depth is the same. I calculate it all out and I actually have 300 cubic inches less than they had, and have 1.45 cubic feet then minus the woofer itself.
        Be excellent to one another.

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          #5
          Wow, I have thought about adding a box to mine, but I don't know now....
          Props on getting in there and doing it.

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            #6
            Originally posted by Moki View Post
            Wow, I have thought about adding a box to mine, but I don't know now....
            Props on getting in there and doing it.
            Yours may be different as far as access to that area. It would have made the job a little easier had I removed the sub and accessed it from that side to start with. Depends on how your heater is mounted. Either way, it is just a difficult reach for me. It would have been better had I had a helping hand as well, but I was all solo.
            Be excellent to one another.

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              #7
              Nice work talltigeguy! I had to get a shop to install mine, I don't have as much fortitude as you:

              http://www.tigeowners.com/forum/show...8381#post98381

              You brought up a point I'm still wondering about myself. Sounds like the enclosure (yours and mine) is 1 inch above the floor at the most forward position. Do we think there will be any issues with travelling thru big chop?

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                #8
                Gees

                I call Tall and talk to him about it and his is done. I started mine like two weeks ago. Bought the materials. Then came band concerts, Plays, WORK and all the other things. Maybe this weekend I can get out there and build mine. Thanks for the info Tall I will make sure I make my 14 year old help me. he should fit in the compartment. . Did you build your box first or did you build it in the compartment?

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by anhaney View Post
                  Did you build your box first or did you build it in the compartment?
                  I would build it on the work bench, but I bet the size of the console opening will dictate the shape (more rectangle then square)
                  Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

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                    #10
                    I went crazy with screws along each edge, putting one about every 2 inches or so. That is part of why my box is so ugly and I refuse to show it. Building it inside the compartment would be banned by Democrats everywhere as a torture worse than waterboarding. The front opening is actually pretty sizable, and the box fit through there nicely.

                    I used the screw holes that attach the subwoofer to the wall to attach the box by using 2.5 inch wood screws. I think the box is there pretty solidly, but it probably wouldn't hurt to slide something under the front of the box to have the box rest on, just to give it support in big chop. I also put one screw through the wall above the subwoofer to get it stabilized.
                    Be excellent to one another.

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                      #11
                      Originally posted by talltigeguy View Post
                      I went crazy with screws along each edge, putting one about every 2 inches or so. That is part of why my box is so ugly and I refuse to show it. Building it inside the compartment would be banned by Democrats everywhere as a torture worse than waterboarding. The front opening is actually pretty sizable, and the box fit through there nicely.

                      I used the screw holes that attach the subwoofer to the wall to attach the box by using 2.5 inch wood screws. I think the box is there pretty solidly, but it probably wouldn't hurt to slide something under the front of the box to have the box rest on, just to give it support in big chop. I also put one screw through the wall above the subwoofer to get it stabilized.
                      I pretty much did the same thing with mine Tall with my sub box redo. I was comped a Kicker C10 from my local dealer so I made it out of 3/4" exterior grade plywoof @ 1.25cf displaced, glued & screwed every 2", coated twice with lineX type stuff in the can and covered the front with carpet so it would look decent. Works awesome, looks ugly! But then i don't care 'cause it's under the closed bow anyway and will weather just about anything! So i'm going to try an experiment and cover the inside back wall with a deading rubber to eliminate bounce back waves and see what happens.
                      "Call me anything you want ... Just don't call me NOBODY!

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                        #12
                        Originally posted by Razzman View Post
                        I pretty much did the same thing with mine Tall with my sub box redo. I was comped a Kicker C10 from my local dealer so I made it out of 3/4" exterior grade plywoof @ 1.25cf displaced, glued & screwed every 2", coated twice with lineX type stuff in the can and covered the front with carpet so it would look decent. Works awesome, looks ugly! But then i don't care 'cause it's under the closed bow anyway and will weather just about anything! So i'm going to try an experiment and cover the inside back wall with a deading rubber to eliminate bounce back waves and see what happens.
                        I am assuming (which I should not as we all know what that does) that you guys assembled your boxes with wood glue and put silicone inside the box around the joints to seal it up air tight. Then you cut the carpet back from the wall area where the box mounted against the wall and used silicone between the wall and box to make it air tight. I am going to get started on mine on Friday. I have to remove the Ballast tank, remount the heater thanks to tall I have a good idea on how to handle that. and then put the box in. I am still waiting for CP3 to set me up with his speakers for the tower. I need to get that done to. The season is getting ready to start in a month and a half and I want to be ready to go.

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                          #13
                          Originally posted by anhaney View Post
                          I am assuming (which I should not as we all know what that does) that you guys assembled your boxes with wood glue and put silicone inside the box around the joints to seal it up air tight. Then you cut the carpet back from the wall area where the box mounted against the wall and used silicone between the wall and box to make it air tight.
                          Of course, is there any other way to do it ... right? I didn't have to worry about the wall area as mine is free standing right in the middle of the space in front of the helm. I mounted two strap bars to the floor and use a heavy duty rubber strap w s-hooks to hold it down, no way this thing is going to move! Here's a shot of the old box and sub to show where it is.

                          http://www.tigeowners.com/forum/atta...1&d=1174425700
                          "Call me anything you want ... Just don't call me NOBODY!

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by anhaney View Post
                            I am assuming (which I should not as we all know what that does) that you guys assembled your boxes with wood glue and put silicone inside the box around the joints to seal it up air tight. Then you cut the carpet back from the wall area where the box mounted against the wall and used silicone between the wall and box to make it air tight. I am going to get started on mine on Friday. I have to remove the Ballast tank, remount the heater thanks to tall I have a good idea on how to handle that. and then put the box in. I am still waiting for CP3 to set me up with his speakers for the tower. I need to get that done to. The season is getting ready to start in a month and a half and I want to be ready to go.
                            I used wood glue and silicon on the box joints. I did not strip the carpet off of the back side of the wall, so there is probably a leak of air between the wall and the sub box. Whether that is truly significant, I dunno? It can't be much, because it is pretty tight up to the wall.

                            Maybe one of you audiophiles can chime in and tell me if small box leaks make much difference in the sound. Or I could just do it all over and compare myself.

                            I was considering doing it again with 3/4 MDF in stead of 1/2 anyway, and also making it slightly taller so that the heater rests on it (I am not moving the heater again). Then it would not be too hard to strip the carpet off and seal it with some silicon.

                            I also have yet to seal the hole the wires go through, so I have another tiny port there, but I have a feeling I want to do this again.
                            Be excellent to one another.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Definately go with the 3/4" material, subs can be pretty powerful and you don't want any flex in the box walls. Air leaks do make a difference in that the sub doesn't work to it's full potential. SP, Phil want to chime in here?
                              "Call me anything you want ... Just don't call me NOBODY!

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