Upgrading System

[billspin]

I would like to get some opinions to see if I am on the right track or out in left field with what I am about to do. I am replacing my Clarion APX400.4 amplifier for the interior speakers and the sub with a Kicker ZX700.5 I have all of the components already so I do not need suggestions of what to use just if I am wiring it correctly. The picture looks like I might have 3 different line drivers but it is one with three sets of connectors. I do not care about fading any of the speaker sets but I do want to turn down the tower speakers and am going to use the LC1 for this. Thanks

[Domsz06]

looks good to me.

[spharis]

The only issue I see is that you are using a single output to send signal to three amps. What is the volt rating on the XMD3 RCA outputs? Answer that and then check with Philwailz to see if it is an acceptable number for the Kicker amp you have.

[Domsz06]

I have the same deck and it worked for my amps. Just an FYI. Granted I have now upgraded, but until I added the extra 3 amps it worked great.

If you go bigger, that head unit may not work, like mine when you turn an input source up all the way, just FYI.

but then again my HU could have been bad from the beginning.

[dogbert]

but then again my HU could have been bad from the beginning.

It has an inferiority complex from the rest of your system

[Domsz06]

ha ha ha your so funny! you guys sure are ragging on me about my system!

[dogbert]

Nah, we're all jealous.

[billspin]

I am using the Phoenix Gold Tantrum LD66 Line Driver. It has three separately controlled channels that each is capable of outputting up to 8 Volts RMS. I currently have this connected to the tower speakers and it really makes a difference in the signal. Thanks

[Domsz06]

you will have no prob!!

[philwsailz]

For a KICKER ZX700.5, you can run all of the amp with a single set of RCA cables. Connect from the line driver to AMP1 and it will "daisy" to AMP2 and to the SUB amp as well.

Lots less wire, and less chance for ground loops and/or noise.

Need to adjust bass? Use the bass level control know provided with the amplifier.

At that point you could get away with using just the fader control on the H/U deck if you want to control tower speaker volume. I still like inserting a gain-cutting know between the H/U and the tower amp, but you have the option of using the fader since you do not intend to fade the boat speakers...

FYI-
Phil

[philwsailz]

Nah, we're all jealous.

What he said...

We all need to meet my Swedish friend Sish Tym Ynvee

[dogbert]

We all need to meet my Swedish friend Sish Tym Ynvee

[da.bell]

What he said...

We all need to meet my Swedish friend Sish Tym Ynvee

PICTURES!!!!!!!!!!!!! Where are the pictures????????????????? Hello!!!!!! PICTURES!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Domsz06]

what da.bell said!

[spharis]

For a KICKER ZX700.5, you can run all of the amp with a single set of RCA cables. Connect from the line driver to AMP1 and it will "daisy" to AMP2 and to the SUB amp as well.

Lots less wire, and less chance for ground loops and/or noise.

Need to adjust bass? Use the bass level control know provided with the amplifier.

At that point you could get away with using just the fader control on the H/U deck if you want to control tower speaker volume. I still like inserting a gain-cutting know between the H/U and the tower amp, but you have the option of using the fader since you do not intend to fade the boat speakers...

FYI-
Phil

There you go......use the pass throughs.

Phil, I find that I don't get an acceptable amount of control using the bass line wipers. Are the ones included with the Kicker amps for a specific range, or do they lower the input levels? If they are like most (boosting 45Hz) then I would opt for at minimum 2 sets of RCAs to the amps. One dedicated to the sub.