Kicker amp and speaker questions

[Kimmer322]

I have four kicker KS60 connected to a Kicker ZX200.2 - can I go with an amp with more wattage to get the sound out to the water or is this as big as I can get?? Dealer put it in and I don't think I'm getting loud enough sound. As it stands now it is at 2ohms per channel.

Thanks!

[Coach]

When you have standard speakers on a tower you will need a lot more power and better speakers. Even that may not get the sound very clear. The only way to go with tower speakers is Pro Audio (Wetsounds, NVS, Rubicons) Most here including myself will tell you that wetsounds speakers with the right am is the way to go. I can hear my Music very well (some times I have to tell my wife to turn it down a bit )

[chpthril]

Speakers are not an issue, may need to talk your dealer into a hi'er watt amp.

Too tired to night to type more, but i'm running my 4 kickers off of the ZX350.4 AND THEY ARE KICK'IN HARD

[Kimmer322]

I guess my thinking is (and it may not be correct!) That I have a KZ700.5 amp for 6 speakers and a sub. I believe this has peak 900ish watts. For the 4 tower speakers dealer put in a KZ200.2 which has peak of 250watts. Seems to me that 250 watts would not be enough power to project the sound 70 feet. I could be all wrong, so any profession opinions would be great.

Been having stereo problems since I got this boat and want it fixed. Found the antenna wire plugged into the h/u but then just wrapped up with the rest of the wires. When I told the dealer all I got was static he told me to clean the plug?!?!? So I got Sirius rather than complain - then I found this wire hooked to nothing. Therefore I'm not too convinced they knew what they were doing. After I gather this info - he is getting it and the boat to straighten it out.

Anyone know what speakers they put on the tower of power??

Thanks again!!!!!

[chpthril]

Anyone know what speakers they put on the tower of power??

Thanks again!!!!!

My 06 TOP came with 4 KS65.2's and now that it's dialed in, I love it.

[talltigeguy]

I think the 65 and 60's are a significant jump in price. Maybe that is why Chpthrill enjoys his more. They are likely an upgrade of the speaker that you have.

For speakers in general, you are more interested in the constant output, not the maximum. The constant wattage put out by your amp is labeled as the RMS output. This will more accurately reflect what the power going to the speakers is. The speakers will also have an RMS rating. See if your amp rating is close to the speakers' max RMS input.

[chpthril]

I think the 65 and 60's are a significant jump in price. Maybe that is why Chpthrill enjoys his more. They are likely an upgrade of the speaker that you have.

For speakers in general, you are more interested in the constant output, not the maximum. The constant wattage put out by your amp is labeled as the RMS output. This will more accurately reflect what the power going to the speakers is. The speakers will also have an RMS rating. See if your amp rating is close to the speakers' max RMS input.

Looking @ kicker.com, the 6.0's and the 6.5's are both rated @ 150 watts/75 RMS. Can't tell ya what the .5" difference in dia will have on sound but probably minimal.

The ZX200.2 watts = 100x2 @ 2ohms stereo
watts = 200 @ 4ohms bridged mono

I bet the speakers are wired parallel so the speakers are under powered.

[Kimmer322]

How can I tell if they are "wired Parallel"?

I had someone check the ohms over the weekend and he said they are wired at 2 ohms per channel. There is only one set of RCA's (purple) to the tower speakers. (this is information to you - I have no idea what it means.) Each set of speakers has one set of wires coming out of them to the H/U meaning there are only one pos. and one neg. wire per 2 speakers. Is this an issue at all??

[chpthril]

How can I tell if they are "wired Parallel"?

You can either look at the wiring at the speakers to see if each pair is wired + to + and - to - (parallel) or + amp wire to + on spkr 1, - on spkr 1 to + on spkr 2, and - on spkr 2 to - amp wire (series)

Or, undo a speaker wire set from the amp and measure the resistance (Ohms) of the speakers. Parallel, you will see 2 Ohms, Series you will see 8 Ohms. If you have a Digital Multi-Meter, this is the easiest way

[spharis]

If they are wired to two ohms, then they are wired parallel. The speakers will share a common (+) and (-) between them. Each speaker on each channel will recieve an equal load, and the amp will split the power between the 2 speakers on each channel.

Your speakers are likely recieving 50 watts each. I do not think a new amp will make you happy. You are not underpowering your current speakers enough that your comments make me think you will get the output you are looking for out of them. 50W RMS on a 75W RMS driver is not a huge difference for max output.

You need to get a budget to upgrade and then decide what you want to do. Tier1 upgrades will be a much more proficient amp and some HLCD drivers (NVS, Wetsounds, etc.) Tier2 will be some nice speaker cans (rubicons, etc) with a much higher output driver (Kicker has some better models, Polk has some OK models, MB Quart)...you will likely want 100W RMS or higher for each driver. You will want to deliver at least 80W RMS to them.

[philwsailz]

If they are wired to two ohms, then they are wired parallel. The speakers will share a common (+) and (-) between them. Each speaker on each channel will recieve an equal load, and the amp will split the power between the 2 speakers on each channel.

Your speakers are likely recieving 50 watts each. I do not think a new amp will make you happy. You are not underpowering your current speakers enough that your comments make me think you will get the output you are looking for out of them. 50W RMS on a 75W RMS driver is not a huge difference for max output.

You need to get a budget to upgrade and then decide what you want to do. Tier1 upgrades will be a much more proficient amp and some HLCD drivers (NVS, Wetsounds, etc.) Tier2 will be some nice speaker cans (rubicons, etc) with a much higher output driver (Kicker has some better models, Polk has some OK models, MB Quart)...you will likely want 100W RMS or higher for each driver. You will want to deliver at least 80W RMS to them.

SP is correct regarding the acoustic output difference beteween your current amp and a larger one. Were you to move to an amp that delivered exactly rated power, (75 watts) to the speakers, I do not think your ears or mine could hear the difference.
I do question just a little the statement that you have KS60's. Whose cans are they in? Off of the top of my head, I cannot think that you might actually have KS65's which are a much more common speaker for tower use. Not that it matters with regards to the amp; they have the same power handling, but they do have a substantailly larger cone.
Double-check everything on the set-up of the amp and tower speakers; let's make sure you are getting everything out of them that you can; if they are not dialed-in, you might not be getting everything you want out at the end of the rope.

I also agree with the comments regarding budget. There are many-many options from a bunch of different manufacturers. If it turns out you want more, you need to figure out what you want to or can afford.

[Kimmer322]

SP is correct regarding the acoustic output difference beteween your current amp and a larger one. Were you to move to an amp that delivered exactly rated power, (75 watts) to the speakers, I do not think your ears or mine could hear the difference.
I do question just a little the statement that you have KS60's. Whose cans are they in? Off of the top of my head, I cannot think that you might actually have KS65's which are a much more common speaker for tower use. Not that it matters with regards to the amp; they have the same power handling, but they do have a substantailly larger cone.
Double-check everything on the set-up of the amp and tower speakers; let's make sure you are getting everything out of them that you can; if they are not dialed-in, you might not be getting everything you want out at the end of the rope.

I also agree with the comments regarding budget. There are many-many options from a bunch of different manufacturers. If it turns out you want more, you need to figure out what you want to or can afford.

They are definately KS60 - I got them at www.liquidaudiosounds.com they are the doubles. Not sure what else I can check - also not sure why some with KS65 (and the larger amp.) can hear they music over the roar of the engine. This is making me nuts!! Hate to have to change everything.

[philwsailz]

They are definately KS60 - I got them at www.liquidaudiosounds.com they are the doubles. Not sure what else I can check - also not sure why some with KS65 (and the larger amp.) can hear they music over the roar of the engine. This is making me nuts!! Hate to have to change everything.

Let's focus on making what you have work for the moment. What head unit are you using? How are you driving the amplifier, i.e. RCAs connected to front or rear, blah blah. Tell us a little more, ad let's get to work.

!!!!!ALSO!!!!!!

Let's take a look at every setting on the amp; all of the knobs, AND the crossover switches on the end of the amp. They are small, but they are there. Document the knob settings as if they are the face of a clock; i.e. a knob setting pointing striaght up would be 12:00.

Maybe we can tweak this puppy a little and not spend any coin today.

[talltigeguy]

It would be interesting to hear the difference between the KS60's and the KS 65's. The sensitivity is listed as the same on this site: http://www.cardomain.com/item/KIC055KS60
and they list them as 6.5 inches.

But then they list the 65's as being 7 inches, so what gives?

On that site the 65's are $20 bucks more.

They both have the same tweeter in them.

[Kimmer322]

Maybe these will help: