I have ran a 4 guage power and ground line up from one of my deep cycle to the compartment in front of the driver seat. I am going to use it to power my amps. My relay box for my dash (my stereo head unit and tower lights are powered by this) is close by. My relay is powered by 10 gauge or 8 gauge wire connected directly to one of my deep cycle batteries. I have two deep cycle batteries and a starting/deep battery that are wired in parrallel. My question is this: Is it a good idea to connect a wire from my amp power distribution to relay power and my ground distribution to my relay ground to provide additional power and grounding for my tower lights?
-
-
My first thought is that your lights and HU will have ample power with a 10ga feed to a relay of proper current rating. I would even consider power the head unit off the amp dist block.
My 2nd thought is, I'm not sure about powering the amps off of that relay for fear of pops/noise. I would run straight to the battery. Just my
Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More -
That is a good point about possible pops. My head unit is connected to a switch on the dash that I can turn on and off. It isn't like the newer boats where it is connected to the key accessory. In other words, I can turn my motor off and my stereo keeps on running until I turn the button off on the dash. I remember that you wired your head unit directly to the battery to avoid that problem. Since my relay wasn't designed to handle the tower lights -- they are just hooked up to the positive and negative terminals of the relay. I may hook up my tower lights directly to the power and ground distribution points.Originally posted by chpthril View PostMy first thought is that your lights and HU will have ample power with a 10ga feed to a relay of proper current rating. I would even consider power the head unit off the amp dist block.
My 2nd thought is, I'm not sure about powering the amps off of that relay for fear of pops/noise. I would run straight to the battery. Just my
BTW, your how to section on adding a 2nd battery has been my manual in hooking up my new alternator, battery, and isolator. Thanks for the excellent instructions, pictures and diagrams!!!
Comment
-
My reading has made me think that stereo stuff should be always kept pure as possible. Noises and interference can be a terrible bear to track down, so I would do what chpthrill says and avoid anything else on the power to the stereo system.Be excellent to one another.Comment
-
Thanks for your input Tall, it was your stereo that made me want to get "real" tower speakers
Comment
-
ok, lets bring this back. A battery isolator. Since it appears I need one, I'm totally confused. I thought all an isolator did was make sure you don't dis charge the batteries when boat is off and your listening to music.
If I'm running 6 batteries in my boat and i choose to run 1 for starting and then a bank wired in parallel with 2 and a bank wired in parallel for 3 do I need a isolator? if so Do I need a 3 bank one, and then put a bank of the isolator for each one of my banks?
Is this also where I would charge with my AC charger to, just attach it's wire.? I'm so confused on this isolator topic.Originally posted by G-MONEYComment
-
and do you measure the size of isolator you need by the output of your alt, or the amount of batteries?Originally posted by G-MONEYComment
-
http://www.thejump.net/fishingarticles/Ship-Shape.htm
after reading that to me all an isolator is a idiot proof switch. As long as I use the banks in 1, 2 or all, and turn it off after I get home, then you don't need one. Also, I NEVER use the stereo in the all position. Maybe I read the article wrong, or it's wrong, but IMO all an isolator is extra ballast. As long as you use your perko switch you don't need one.
anyone feel free to comment as necessary.Originally posted by G-MONEYComment
-
You are almost correct. An isolator will allow alternator charging for all batteries, regardless of switch position, but other than that, your comment is correct. Also, your use of the switch the way you described is correct.Originally posted by Domsz06 View Post
When selecting a switch for purchase, one should also make sure that it is of the type that will allow switching from position 1 to position 2 without going past off. Additionally, we want to see a make-make switch instead of a make-break-make switch. The reasoning behind all of this is to make sure that you do not ever REMOVE a battery from the alternator charging circuit. DOing so will more than likely blow the voltage regulator.
Lastly, and back to isolators. Most if not all just isolators use diodes to limit the direction of flow of electricity. This is the neat feature that allows juice to flow through the isolator to the battery during charging, but NOT let juice flow out of the battery back to the load (stereo) when the boat is at rest. Diodes are inherently ineffecient. Most diodes will have a voltage drop of .7 volts, regardless the diode type. Put another way, when charging the batteries through the isolator, and for simplicity's sake assuming the alternator puts out 12 volts, your bateries will NEVER see more than 11.3 volts. Luckily most of our alternators put out a higher voltage than that, but know that you are losing .7 volts regardless the charge level when you are using an isolator between the alternator and your batteries.Last edited by philwsailz; 06-04-2007, 07:55 PM.It's not an optical illusion.
It just looks like one.....Comment
-
Phil,
Thank you for that reply. It looks like I need one now. but now I have the question is can I get a bigger size iso, at no foul to my alt? also can I hook my AC charger directly to the iso to charge that way? that would save a lot of wiring for me as well.
my perko switch I have now is from the boat factory, so I assume it's right. I try to never switch the switch when the boat is on, but I have at times and never had a problem, so I assume it's the correct type of swtich.Originally posted by G-MONEYComment
-
If your switch is 1, 2, both, off it is probably okay.Originally posted by Domsz06 View Post
Size of the isolator is irrelevant to charging, but rather to current draw from the load(s). Size is also irrelevant to messing up the alt, the switch is the more common culprit. Be sure the current capacity of the isolator is at least equal to the total summed fuses on your amplifiers, (typically the biggest load on a boat) if not more.
I presonally still prefer not to install an isolator in boats that do not have them already. In fact, I had intentions of installing a switch and a second battery without an isolator, with the second batt being the "oh-sh$t" starting backup, but just using a jump-start pack with no switch has proved to me to be the most goof-proof means of getting off of the water after sitting too long.
I jsut do not like losing charging voltage...
The choice of getting an isolator is totally up to you, but you can accomplish re-charging a dead battery when one is dead by switching to your starting reserve and starting up, then moving the switch to the dead battery. Try to limit use of BOTH, asn with one dead batt and one charged batt, the charging from the alternator will be, well, funny. I do not want to go off on a tangent when a battery technician could do a better job of explaining....It's not an optical illusion.
It just looks like one.....Comment
-
ok, well in this case, your also the second person who said no to isolators. so I think I'll hold off. esp since I have not found an isolator that can handle 520 amps.
I'm going to hold off, just keep doing what I had intended to, and then if I need to later I'll add one. But Duane (NVS Owner) he and I talked and he doesn't have an iso and his buddy does. His system is just as loud as mine will be, and his buddy only has 2 batts, but the iso was causing the problems.
I'll just leave it out, keep it wired the way I had, use switch 2 for the sytem, 1 for the boat, and then only need all when i absoultly need it. I'll hook up the ac charger to charge the batts every night and I'll be good to go.Originally posted by G-MONEYComment
-
Originally posted by Domsz06 View Post
Perfect. I think you can handle it!
Oh, lastly, the iso being a "perko switch for dummies" is a fair assesment. It has its compromises, but to many folks boating these days without a basic understanding of electricity, the isolator is the best means of ensuring they can get on and off the water, with a minimum of thought, (which is sometimes genetically limited anyway) without blowing up other parts of the boat.
Okay, I was unfair to the intellectually challenged wasn't I?
No doubt we all know one or two though, right?
It's not an optical illusion.
It just looks like one.....Comment
-
amen to that!!
I thought that's what it was, and just didn't understand it. I'm going to build without it just like I had planned. If I realize ineed one I'll worry about trying to find a gigantic one other wise, for get it. I had 2500 watts before and i didn't have one, so what's it matter when I step up to 6000, and add a few batteries
Originally posted by G-MONEYComment
-
Cool!!!!!Originally posted by Domsz06 View Postamen to that!!
I thought that's what it was, and just didn't understand it. I'm going to build without it just like I had planned. If I realize ineed one I'll worry about trying to find a gigantic one other wise, for get it. I had 2500 watts before and i didn't have one, so what's it matter when I step up to 6000, and add a few batteries
We might as well get this going a little further with a few more replies; I want to get over 100 posts today....
It's not an optical illusion.
It just looks like one.....Comment
Comment