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    #1

    Finalizing Sound System!

    While waiting for my '07 22ve to be delivered I have been trying to finalize what exactly I want to do with the stereo system. I ordered my Tige without any of the stock stereo systems, but did have Tige cut the holes for the 4 main cabin speakers. I talked to my local stereo guy about what I wanted and he and I came up with the following system:

    Tower:
    -Black WetBox Logo X w/ 4 Polk db 691's
    -Kenwood 2 channel amp (not sure which model)

    Boat:
    -4 Polk db 651's speakers (driven by the HU)
    -Kenwood HU w/ ipod connect (not a fancy deck, but a functional one)
    -Driver's side remote

    Sub:
    -JL 10W3v3 subwoofer (under dash w/ custom box)
    -JL 250/1 class D amp (gave me the option of JL A1400 sub amp b/c it’s the same price)

    When talking to the stereo guy I told him that I wanted a JL 10W3v3 sub and the WetBox w/ 4 6x9’s, since my last Tige had the same box and I was extremely happy with it. He recommended the Polk db’s on the tower and inside. I was just wondering if anyone has the Polk db’s and, if so, how do you like them? Are there other speakers that anyone on here prefers as opposed to the Polk db’s at around the same price range? Also any input on the JL 250/1 class D amp vs. the A1400 sub amp? I believe RMS on the A1400 is 400 vs. 250 on the 250/1 but I’ve heard that the 250/1 is a better amp so which would I be better off with? Thanks for the help!
    If you ain't falling.. you ain't trying hard enough..
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    #2
    You will not beat the Polk DB series for the reasons you asked about. That is one reason they are such a popular Marine driver combo.

    As far as the amps, those are from two differnt classes of JL line. The 250/1 is the slash series and is only rated at 250W RMS @ 1.5-4 Ohms 14.4 V. The A1400 is from the A-series and will put out 500W RMS @ 2Ohms 14.4V with very little THD.

    I think you would be better off getting a dual voice coil version of the 10W3V3, and combining it with the A1400. Those woofers need power to reach potential, especially in the size restriction a boat is going to put on the box. That would give you 500W to the 10, and will be much more responsive and way louder than the slash series.

    Also for future expansion, the slash is only stable to 1.5 ohms and still only puts out 250. Way more options with the A-series.

    That variable ohm load with the same power rating is a JL thing. It fits for certain installs, and works very well for high SQ type insalls; but I do not think it works well for what you are doing. SQ is not a huge concern in a marine environment. we just want it to sound good and be louder than the engine/wind/kids. The 2ohm version of that woofer is JL 10W3v3-2. The one he spec'd for you is probably a 10W3v3-4. There should be minimal cost difference between the two. One major difference is the A-series uses your standard dirty unregulated Mosfet to get the power. The slash uses the cleaner JL RIPS technology (and Mosfets)...kind of like the ICE stuff.....manufacturers are building alternatives to get clean power.

    As far as it being a better amp, that depends on the use. In a car...yep I agree 100%. Very low tolerences on noise and interference. Limited power across loads so a variable of speaker combos, and very very clean power (the slash series is known for this). However in a boat, you have way too much interfernce to be designing a SQ type system. You want to have quality, good sounding components that rock out with their **** out. For this reason, you would actually be getting more amp in the lower ranked series.

    Is there any reason you are stuck to the JLs.....I love them and the sound, but for the money.....geeez....It's hard for me to drop that in a boat.
    Last edited by spharis; 04-23-2007, 08:17 PM.
    http://www.wakeboatworld.com
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      #3
      Spharis thanks for the info on the amps, it was extremely helpful! I think I will go with the JL A1400 for the reasons that you stated. You mention the size restriction that a boat puts on the box. Are you talking mainly about depth of the box in that compartment?

      Also does anyone know if a 13" sub would fit in that same spot under the dash? I'm pretty sure the diameter is fine but would you be able to build a deep enough box to house the sub? I'd go measure it but we haven't taken delivery yet!

      Last question: Is a 10" sub going to have a lot "cleaner" sound than a 13" sub? If I do in fact go with the A1400 amp then I am now thinking that I might want to go with the 13W3v3 since it has a higher RMS and has the ability of pushing WAY more air than a 10".
      If you ain't falling.. you ain't trying hard enough..

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        #4
        If you can make it fit a sealed 13" JL W_ sub with the right amount of power will be just as clean as a sealed 10" JL W_ sub with the right amount of power.
        "a what? i can['t] say/spell/pronounce that word..." - wannabewakeboarder
        "the plural of boo is booze."

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          #5
          The key is Power! The only think I would add is an amp for the cabin speakers. The HU will not supply that much power and I am guessing the sub will over power them. Plus to be able to hear the music while moving it might be a good way to go. I have run a Crossfire 404 to a 10 and 4- 5.25" speakers before and got great results but the Amp was under a heavy load all of the time. For a few hundred more a 3rd amp would complete the system, because my guess is down the road you will want to do it and wished you had done it to start.
          Success is the ability to go from one failure to another with no loss of enthusiasm.
          Winston Churchill

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            #6
            Thanks for the advice on adding the third amp. It's not something I completely overlooked. In my old Tige I had my HU powering the four cabin speakers and an amp powering the Wet Box w/ 4 6x9 Pioneer Premiers. I liked it because you could crank it up so that the rider could hear the tower speakers but it wasn't deafening to the people in the boat b/c the cabin speakers weren't amped. The difference here, which I didn't think about and thanks for mentioning, is that I didn't have a subwoofer in the other boat.

            I don't really want to add another amp to the system but will if it will sound bad without. I was thinking that the amped tower speakers + the cabin speakers will be loud enough to complement the sub. I'm also having a switch installed to turn off the sub amp for the times when someone is riding and the people in the boat don't want the bass. Do you think that the sub will definitely drown out the cabin/tower speakers when sitting?
            If you ain't falling.. you ain't trying hard enough..

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              #7
              You can do fine with 2 amps if you pick the right ones. You will need different amps than what you have though.

              Most dual amps run cabin speakers off 2 channels, and the sub off 2 channels; all at 2 ohms
              http://www.wakeboatworld.com
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                #8
                Originally posted by spharis View Post
                You can do fine with 2 amps if you pick the right ones. You will need different amps than what you have though.

                Most dual amps run cabin speakers off 2 channels, and the sub off 2 channels; all at 2 ohms
                That is what I did on my last boat. It worked out very well. If you are worried about overall volume between the tower and cabin you can do a few things. Once hook up the fader so the tower and cabin are on the front and back channels or pick up some PAC LC-1 gain contorlers for the amp. They are a knob that you can turn to lower or raise the sound of the speakers in the boat. I am running 3 PAC LC-1 controlers and I love them. One for the Sub, one for the cabin, and one for the tower. I have full control over sound to the rider vs. the sound in the cabin and I can make the changes without messing with the HU
                Success is the ability to go from one failure to another with no loss of enthusiasm.
                Winston Churchill

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by spharis View Post
                  You can do fine with 2 amps if you pick the right ones. You will need different amps than what you have though.

                  Most dual amps run cabin speakers off 2 channels, and the sub off 2 channels; all at 2 ohms
                  Spharis thank you for the input, but could you elaborate a little. I don't totally follow you.. What do you mean most dual amps run cabin speakers off 2 ch. and the sub off 2 ch.? Are you talking about using a 4 channel for the cabin and the sub or 2 seperate 2 channels? and then what about the tower? sorry for my confusion...
                  If you ain't falling.. you ain't trying hard enough..

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                    #10
                    Well i'm not SP but i can answer that as i set mine up the same way recently. I connected all four cabin speakers to channels 1&2 in parallel and the sub is bridged on channels 3&4 on the four channel amp. The two channel amp runs the tower speakers only. That's the short answer, SP can elaborate
                    "Call me anything you want ... Just don't call me NOBODY!

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                      #11
                      Originally posted by Razzman View Post
                      Well i'm not SP but i can answer that as i set mine up the same way recently. I connected all four cabin speakers to channels 1&2 in parallel and the sub is bridged on channels 3&4 on the four channel amp. The two channel amp runs the tower speakers only. That's the short answer, SP can elaborate
                      That is what SP is taking about as well as what I did on my last boat. Just one thing to know is put a fan on the amp if you plan on running your system hard. That set up will heat up an amp fast. I ended up putting a bilge fan next to the amp and ran it off of the amp power to keep air running across it. Worked very well.
                      Success is the ability to go from one failure to another with no loss of enthusiasm.
                      Winston Churchill

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                        #12
                        Right, the only thing you have to check is that the amp is 2 ohm stable and bridgeable. Most 4 channels are.
                        http://www.wakeboatworld.com
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