Lookee what I found

[dogbert]

.....and finally I might be done until next spring!

Famous last words! In case you haven't figured it out yet, the fun never ends!

[evil0ne]

WOW! That teak looks amazing.

[Razzman]

Looks GOOD SP! What a difference between the before and after!

[NVSAirWarrior]

As a Polk Audio dealer I can share that the db series, althouh an entry level product, does quite will for interior speakers in the boat. For Tower speakers, well, you probably know I'm Pro Audio for 4 years now.
Back to the Polks, the db series is the entry level driver, the Momo is the next (standard Equip in the recent Nauti's) and then the SR. The SR is so expensive (MSRP $899/pr) that even as a dealer I've not heard these. Probably better for a car then a boat.
Lastly, if you're going to do car audio on the tower, I support the 6x9 approach. I think Pioneer makes an incredible 5 way 6x9 worth considering. I don't normally support multi way drivers with other transducers mounted in front of the cone but they pull it off rather well consdering the challanges.
But like any speaker, listen in the approriate environment before you buy.
Duane

[yearroundboarder]

SP - Boat looks killer. What a makeover.

[Tequilasun]

Spharis, Looks fantastic.

[spharis]

Famous last words! In case you haven't figured it out yet, the fun never ends!

Dude....don't tempt me....I have to be done. I really want to redo the upholstery next Feb. or so, and get a seat that lets my back breath. I also need to see if I can locate another dash pod.

Looks GOOD SP! What a difference between the before and after!

I wish I could do the same with my trailer. Mine is showing its age for sure. It almost makes me wonder if it wasn't in salt water a couple of times. It is solid, but there is no way I could refirb it like you have. The Gulf Coast is such a harsh, humid environment.

WOW! That teak looks amazing.

Compared to what it used to look like especially. Wasn't someone asking about how well teak holds up? It took a lot of effort, but it came out nice. A couple of the boards are slightly warped, but considering; I think it looks goood.


I am hoping to get some on the water shots soon. Weather is going to be bad this weekend, so it may have to wait. A polishing is in order before then anyway. The next boat I get will have orange or yellow base hull. Water is too mineral rich around here.

[Domsz06]

sp,

have you posted how you got your teak looking that good? if so where is it, if not you should do a how to thread on it, I need to get mine looking that well again.

Thanks man.

[spharis]

This...alot of this...I sanded until the weathered stuff was gone.


+ this


+this


+ alot of this.....liberally applied......alot.....over a course of a few weekends.



And I don't know if it makes a difference or not, but my teak is not sealed treated or any of the other stuff I see sometimes. It is just raw natural wood. I think alot of you have a sealed teak, and then the board fins scrape the varnish or laquer off, so it looks awful.

[Domsz06]

I don't think mine is sealed. So Just some sanding, with say 800 grit? then come back and buff it? and oil? i have the oil and cleaner stuff.

[Moki]

As a Polk Audio dealer I can share that the db series, althouh an entry level product, does quite will for interior speakers in the boat. For Tower speakers, well, you probably know I'm Pro Audio for 4 years now.
Back to the Polks, the db series is the entry level driver, the Momo is the next (standard Equip in the recent Nauti's) and then the SR. The SR is so expensive (MSRP $899/pr) that even as a dealer I've not heard these. Probably better for a car then a boat.
Lastly, if you're going to do car audio on the tower, I support the 6x9 approach. I think Pioneer makes an incredible 5 way 6x9 worth considering. I don't normally support multi way drivers with other transducers mounted in front of the cone but they pull it off rather well consdering the challanges.
But like any speaker, listen in the approriate environment before you buy.
Duane

Welcome Duane, it's great to see both you and Tim on the Tige site! Now the Tige forum has become like Fox news -- fair and balanced reporting.

[spharis]

I hit with a coarse, then a fine. It really didn't take all that long.

[dogbert]

Now the Tige forum has become like Fox news -- fair and balanced reporting.

I pride myself on my bias

[chpthril]

Welcome Duane, it's great to see both you and Tim on the Tige site! Now the Tige forum has become like Fox news -- fair and balanced reporting.

I pride myself on my bias

Dont let the truth get in the way of a good story.

J/K Welcome aboard Duane

And I don't know if it makes a difference or not, but my teak is not sealed treated or any of the other stuff I see sometimes. It is just raw natural wood. I think alot of you have a sealed teak, and then the board fins scrape the varnish or laquer off, so it looks awful

When I re-did my teak on the Regal, I sealed it thinking it would look better and last longer. By the end of the season, it was de-laminating and look like crap. I striped it and sanded it back down and just kept it oiled.

[NICKYPOO]

I don't think mine is sealed. So Just some sanding, with say 800 grit? then come back and buff it? and oil? i have the oil and cleaner stuff.

You don't need to go nearly that fine. I just re-did mine. I had it sealed with a product called Penifin. Tough stuff and even tougher to get off. It looked great to begin with on the last round of tear down and refinish (2 years ago), but towards the end of last season it was looking pretty haggard from the scratches. Those scratches allow water under the sealer, turning it white. It looked much like SP's.

Here's what I did:

Prep- You can use all the chemical you want, but your going to end up sanding either way. You might as well just sand as opposed to dealing with all the chemicals. A nice pad sander will go a long way. This one is nice but I'm sure you can find one cheaper. http://www.toolking.com/productinfo....DeWalt_D26451K. Get yourself a box (at least 20) of 100 grit paper and go to town. LET THE PAPER DO THE WORK! Teak is very soft and builds up extremely fast on the paper. Once it builds up, you will end up polishing the wood to the point it wont want to accept the oil. Besides the fact it will take you forever to move anything off the surface with a loaded up piece of paper. Paper is cheap. Keep it fresh and it will keep you fresh. I use one piece of paper per 1/2 board on one side. Once each section is done, slap a new piece of paper on and give it a quick once over and move on to the next 1/2 board. Sand everything you can with the sander. The surface, the bottom, the sides, front, and back. Everywhere you can get that pad to touch. Roll it over the edges, do not run it along the edges. Once you have everything sanded you can with the sander, get the stuff you couldn't get with the sander by hand. After that, give it a quick once over with the sander again. You should have nothing but fresh wood and you will be ready for finish at this point. Remember, your end product is only as good as your prep work. My general rule of thumb is that I should be able to drag my pecker across any piece of that platform with zero fear of getting a splinter in it. This frame of mind will pretty much ensure you have it completely sanded.

Finish- I'm always trying something different, but I'm back to just oiling it. At present I have four fat coats of oil that I have applied at one week intervals over the last month. It's lookin' purty. One more coat and I'm going to put all the mounting brackets back on and call it macaroni.

Holy cripes! I beat the spell checker.