plexi glass boxes

[spharis]

I'm confised by what you are trying to do with the wiring on your batteries. How many are going to be dedicated to accessories and stereo, and why do you need multiple banks of parallel. If they are 12V, they will have to be parallel to keep the circuit 12V.

And tanner is correct, you will not be ble to fit 0 guage into your amps, probably 4-8 on most. You should be using a distribution block to cut down on total cable runs, and since you need to add an external fuse, you can buy the type that has big glass fuses inline with the smaller run to the amp. They are made in several configurations. 1-0AWG split to 4-8AWG, etc.

[Domsz06]

batteries,

2 for starting 4 for accessories.

Power wire.

Yes I know that you can't fit zero into the amps. Not planning on it. Planning on going 0 to first distribution block, splitting to 4 going to fuses, then to amps. Amps will fit 2 and 4 just fine, but it's too hard to find 2 gauge wire. I think 4 gauge will be fine from the block, to fuse to amp, for each amp, you agree?

[spharis]

Yes....grounds and amp cable should be same size.

[Domsz06]

ok, so now about the batteries, how should I wire them up, mind drawing a pic?

[Domsz06]

is this right?

[Domsz06]

oh yeah, sorry, left side is the starting batteries, right side is the stereo batteries.

[spharis]

Is that an on off switch, or a 1-2-both-none switch? Are you using an isolator?

[Domsz06]

sorry, 1-2-both-none. and as far as isolator, um not sure. Did they come with a stock boat? Do I need one? there was a thread on here about it, wasn't there?

[spharis]

No you don't have one/need one, but looking at what you want to do, it could easily replace the switch. This is what I would do if I had the same electronics, but there are a bazillion ways to wire in switches and isolators. The below has the starting system wired direct to the starting batteries with an on/off switch for storing. An isolator in place to automate battery charging. And the stereo is isolated to the stereo while the engine is off. You could add another switch there as well. All those blocks are disribution points where your cable size needs to step up/down, but only the one for that splits to 3 for the stereo needs fused. The green wire can go to either spot.

[Domsz06]

wow, totatlly confused off that pic, will have to look and study that.

[spharis]

Keep in mind this is what I would do......I am serious when I say here are 50 different ways to wire it. This one is the most automated for charging, and allows you to turn off both battery banks when storing. BTW I made a change since you posted that. The 4AWG to each battery is only for short runs, if you go over a few feet you will need to step up in size.

[Domsz06]

ok,it's making more sense, what's the thing in the middle saying bank1 and 2?

[Domsz06]

and the items saying all 4 to batteries and to amps is the distribution blocks?

[spharis]

Yes those are distribution blocks....it will cut down on wiring. The only one that needs to be fuseable is the one on the amp power wire split. All the others can be unfused type.

Bank 1, Bank2 , alt is an isolator. When the alt is running it closes all the circuits together so all the banks will charge without you having to remember a switch. It opens when the engine is off, so the battery banks are isolated.

The numbers reference cable size, but you need to make sure that the 4AWG isnt over a few feet.

[Domsz06]

i'm going to run everything 0, except from the fuse to the amps. Would prefer to be safe then sorry. I will look into the isolator switches, that sounds like a really good idea. Are they really expensive? Somewhere in here I have to add my dual pro three way charger, but that's not going to be too hard.