plexi glass boxes

[spharis]

Like this.

[spharis]

No you need three unless you tie your starting batteries together.....

One on one starting battery, one on the other, and one on the audio batteries.

On the back of the 3 way switch you have 3 lugs.
1 - goes to starter
2- goes to battery 1
3 goes to battery 2

You will put one charge to battery 1 lug, and one charge to battery 2 lug

On the back of the on/off switch you have 2 lugs.
1- goes to isolator
2- goes to batteries

The third charge goes to the battery lug on this switch.

[Domsz06]

but wait, the way you have it drawn I would only need a 2 bank system! I like that even better as it saves me a bill! right spharis?

[Domsz06]

sweet, looks sharp. and then somewhere in there I add the charger. But you can run separate leads from it to your banks of batteries is how you typically do that right? since I'm getting a three bank charger one for each bank it charges each bank separately.

[spharis]

I see something written there, but it just says "peep, peep, peep".

[zad0030]

No they are cheap in comparison.

I relabeled the items in the picture.

Ah well now its idiot proof

[spharis]

No they are cheap in comparison. You can add your charger to the battery side of the two switches. Can it charge 4 batteries on one of the three outputs?

I relabeled the items in the picture.

[Domsz06]

i'm going to run everything 0, except from the fuse to the amps. Would prefer to be safe then sorry. I will look into the isolator switches, that sounds like a really good idea. Are they really expensive? Somewhere in here I have to add my dual pro three way charger, but that's not going to be too hard.

[spharis]

Yes those are distribution blocks....it will cut down on wiring. The only one that needs to be fuseable is the one on the amp power wire split. All the others can be unfused type.

Bank 1, Bank2 , alt is an isolator. When the alt is running it closes all the circuits together so all the banks will charge without you having to remember a switch. It opens when the engine is off, so the battery banks are isolated.

The numbers reference cable size, but you need to make sure that the 4AWG isnt over a few feet.

[Domsz06]

and the items saying all 4 to batteries and to amps is the distribution blocks?

[Domsz06]

ok,it's making more sense, what's the thing in the middle saying bank1 and 2?

[spharis]

Keep in mind this is what I would do......I am serious when I say here are 50 different ways to wire it. This one is the most automated for charging, and allows you to turn off both battery banks when storing. BTW I made a change since you posted that. The 4AWG to each battery is only for short runs, if you go over a few feet you will need to step up in size.

[Domsz06]

wow, totatlly confused off that pic, will have to look and study that.

[spharis]

No you don't have one/need one, but looking at what you want to do, it could easily replace the switch. This is what I would do if I had the same electronics, but there are a bazillion ways to wire in switches and isolators. The below has the starting system wired direct to the starting batteries with an on/off switch for storing. An isolator in place to automate battery charging. And the stereo is isolated to the stereo while the engine is off. You could add another switch there as well. All those blocks are disribution points where your cable size needs to step up/down, but only the one for that splits to 3 for the stereo needs fused. The green wire can go to either spot.

[Domsz06]

sorry, 1-2-both-none. and as far as isolator, um not sure. Did they come with a stock boat? Do I need one? there was a thread on here about it, wasn't there?