Winter Project Audio Upgrade

[Brianrzr]

I am upgrading my audio system over the winter as follows:

Syn 6 - 1000 Watt : 4 - Revo 6's, 2 - Revo 8's
Syn 4 - 800 Watt : 2 - Rev 10's
Syn 4 - 800 Watt : 2 - Rev 10's
Syn 2 - 700 Watt : 1 - Revo 12 FA 4 ohm Sub

That's 3,300 watts. What I would like to do, is have a single power line off of the battery to under the console, then split to individual lines to each of the 4 amps, roughly 20-25 feet. Calculating Ohm's law at 14.4 volts, that is 230 amps requiring a 3/0 cable, or 12 volts at 275 amps requiring 4/0 cable. Is this correct?

[chpthril]

A couple of point of note. The amplifier wattage out to the speakers is AC. So you cant strictly apply it to the DC ohms law equation, to find the DC amp draw. Also, most advertised wattage numbers are the amps rated RMS with ALL chnls at their minimum load, which would be 2 ohm in this case. So depending on a particular, not all amp chnls could be at a 2 ohm load. In the above scenario, the 6 chnls of the syn-6 will be at 4 ohm, which comes out to about 550W rms. The other three amps would be running at 2 ohm p/chnl, so they have the potential of producing their rated max RMS.

In the real world, music is so dynamic, so amp wattage production varies greatly. This means amp current draw, can also fluctuate greatly.

One way to calculate potential amplifier current draw, is to use the sum of their on-board fuses. This will give their peak (but unrealistic) DC amp current draw. Unrealistic as in we would never measure an amp running anywhere near its fused value. We may see it peak for a second, but never running near that value, even if all chnls are at their minimum impedance. So, look at the relationship between RMS and peak wattage, then apply that to the summed fuse value and realistic DC amp draw.

[sandm]

chp knows his $hit and lots of good math there.

fwiw this was the setup in my 12 22ve:
I ran 1/0 gauge from the deep cycle in the back in parallel to another deep cycle under the passenger helm. this got us not only longer play time but closer runs to the distribution block and each amp. don't know if this is a benefit or not but no way I was shoehorning another battery into the rear so it made sense. then ran 1/0 cable to a distribution block on both the pos and neg side. 4 gauge to each amp. I was using 3 arc audio ks series which iirc are the same internals as ws just not marine rated. never had any issues with the system in 5 years and many trips to the sandbar cranked.

not sure if you have purchased all the wiring/accessories. not related but just a satisfied customer over 2 boats and many many cars over the years.... http://www.knukonceptz.com/

stereo in my z3 is a hot mess from it's prior owner/install shop and it's on the agenda for this winter as well. good luck and post up how it goes.......