Originally posted by BrentP
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Kyle's 24V Stereo Upgrade
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Okay so I was able to wire up the subwoofer, and run its' wiring and my RCA cables from the helm to the amp wall. Now on to the WS-220 and final hook ups. A couple of questions is anyone has any input...
1) where are is everyone mounting the WS-220 of WS-420? (I am going to search right now). I was thinking I would mount it under the dash but there doesn't look to be anything secure to screw in to.
2) The amps have a remote wire hooked up from the head unit. Do I also need to wire this to the remote output on the WS-220? The head unit turns on with the ignition so I don't imagine a situation where the WS-220 is on and would need to send a remote signal to the amps for them to power on. or is the WS-220 remote wire used to tell it to power on? I am planning on wiring the WS220 power from a bus bar mounted under the dash that gets power when the ignition is on.
3) Does the WS-220 have the same dimensions as the 420? Will the 420 billet mount work on the 220 or is there a special 220 mount? (couldn't find on WS site).
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1) my first preference is to mount them on the right of the steering wheel. This allows the left hand to stay on the wheel and the right hand to work the throttle and volume. Sometimes we have to fabricate some brackets in order to create a place to mount the EQ's. On some boats, we cut a hole and mount the EQs right into the helm, rather then under them.
2) We want the EQ to be turned on by the head unit, same as the amps. Call me tomorrow, I want to talk with you about the power and ground for the EQ.
3) Wet Sounds does offer an under-dash mount for the WS-220BT. its the same as the SW-420BT. These two have the same face and body dimensions. All three EQ have the same body dimensions.Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More
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I was going to mount mine under the speed set on my 22ve. There is an empty spot in the instrument cluster there. Mike swears it will fit
Mike, you may need to fill me in in that too. I was thinking about redoing the aux switch to power the “left turn” of the ignition key a part of this process and just run the power for the EQ on that (and use the ground bus)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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I messaged brent and spoke with kjohnson and their specific setups.
For those following along, in short, we dont want to wire an EQ's or head unit's B+ and B- to the helm, while amps are on the other side of the boat. We can potentially end up with unwanted noise due to a difference on voltage.Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More
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My head unit has three sets of RCA outputs (front L&R, rear L&R and sub L&R). The WS-220 has only one set of RCA inputs from the "main source." Is it acceptable to run one set of RCA cables from just the "front" output on the head unit to the WS-220 input? Or must I run two sets of RCAs from the front and rear on the head unit and then use a Y adapter to consolidate to one input into the WS-220?
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You can use either the front or rear outputs, just make sure the head FADE is centered or faded to which ever you use.Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More
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So the under side of my dash is completely hacked up. There is no real areas of fiberglass to mount the WS-220 to. Whoever cut the opening for the radio has worse skills with a saw then I do. but I think I have found a solution - I have built an aluminum bracket to run horizontal across the bottom of the dash and then the WS-220 mounts to it. I am hoping to get this installed today.
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I had a local plastic company make a bracket for me that also had some holes for some switches that I've now used for my LED's and power to my USB port. Your aluminum bracket was probably more cost effective. Back then WS didn't make any of the universal brackets that they do now.Attached Files
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I was able to get the WS-220 mounted. I am semi-happy with it but I was hoping to tuck it up more under the dash. I couldn't do this because then the bracket would get in the way of the sliding cover for the head unit above. I am going to try to make some type of black trim piece to fill the gap.
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FAILURE!!!!!
So I got everything wired up, batteries back in, and there must be something wrong with my wiring configuration. I am wondering if the issue is with how I have the amp remote wires configured? When the key/ignition is on "ACC" or "ON" the head unit turns like on like it is supposed to but there is no sound coming out of any speakers. Blue lights are on the WS-220 on the "source" and "mic" knobs but no lights on any of the "zone" knobs. Then after a while these lights turned off as well. The amplifiers also did not appear to be on. When I "giggled" the amp remote wires at the amp 1 remote connection the amp fan for Amp 1 did kick on but still no new lights on the WS-220 zone knobs and no sound coming out of any speakers. This makes me think the amps are getting proper power. I also tried to switch the source to AUX on the WS-220 and nothing. I believe I have all of my RCA connections correct.
Anyone have any ideas? Maybe my amp remote wire configuration is wrong so the amps and WS-220 are not getting a good signal to know to power on properly? Tomorrow I am going to break out the multimeter and test light and test for power at the distro block, fuses, WS-220, etc. but I am hoping by looking at the wiring diagram below someone can see something easy and simple I am doing wrong? Maybe having all of the amp turn on wires converging on amp 1 is wrong? Should I spilt the wire coming out of the head unit into three and then run to each component?
Also, not sure if it makes a difference but i do not yet have my tower speakers hooked up to amp 2 yet.
Thank you, Kyle.
boat stereo wiring .jpgLast edited by kjohnson709; 12-22-2019, 01:59 AM.
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Need to grab a volt meter and start at the batteries. Need to make sure they are fully charged. 12.2V would be about 75% depleted. below that and things may not work. Now work your way with the meter, up the main amp cables, through the distribution blocks and to the amp. Then make you way to the head unit and EQ. The voltage all the way to the end component should be within a couple tenths of a volt of what you measure right at the battery.
The amp turn-on voltage from the head unit, can be as low as 1V below whats going into the head. But, once it leaves the head, we dont want it to drop by time it gets to the amps and EQ.
The EQ gets turned on vie the amp turn-on, same as the amps, so your schematic is correct.Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More
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