Kyle's 24V Stereo Upgrade

[kjohnson709]

I have narrowed the issue down to something having to do with the distribution block on the amp wall. Voltage drops off right there. I reset all connections and tightened the set screws as much as possible but no luck. It appears the main 0 awg ground screw threads might be stripped out (maybe I tightened to much at initial installation). Here are my readings and below that is a photo of how I have the distribution block configured. Anyone have any ideas? Should I try a new distro block since the ground may not be contacting right or maybe I have the fuses wrong or something?

At Battery 1 = 13.51v
At Battery 2 = 13.48v

At both sides of breaker (after but right near Perko Switch) = 13.45v

0awg wires at distro connection (with actual 0awg wires removed from disto block all together & testing from copper on each wire) = 13.46 (good!)

Here is where it gets interesting!

At 0awg inputs on distro block when 0awg wires are connected to distribution block (measuring from set screws or measuring from fuses) = 11.73v (big drop right there)

everything after this is in the 11.x v range
At the 5 amp in line fuse going out of distribution block to WS-220 = 11.73v
At distribution block exits to amps and at amps themselves = 11.68v and 11.69v
At 2amp fuse on the back of WS-220 under dash = 11.68v

Photo of Distribution Block:

IMG_9647.jpg

[chpthril]

Did you remove the clear vinyl tube pieces under the set screws? They should fall out when you back the set screw off in order to prepare to insert the cable.

[kjohnson709]

Did you remove the clear vinyl tube pieces under the set screws? They should fall out when you back the set screw off in order to prepare to insert the cable.

Yep i did remove the rubber pieces. They did fall out.

I actually went to my local stereo shop today and bought two new distribution blocks, one fused for the B+ and one non-fused for B-. Installed them and no change. Amp 1 fan kicked on when ignition is "on" or on ACC but still just 11.x v at the distribution blocks and after and now I am only getting 5-6 volts at the 2 amp in line fuse at the WS-220. I have also confirmed that the RCAs are hooked up properly. The head unit is plugged into "main" input and then the zones are plugged into the WS220 zones and then into the amps. I must be doing something wrong.

It is the problem that the voltage is reading 11.x at the amplifiers and distribution blocks right? Again, if i disconnect from the distribution block and just take a reading at the 0awg B+ & B- wires I am getting 13.x V.

Is it "okay" if at the 0awg distribution blocks some copper stands poking out the sides? I've got it as crammed in there as best as possible but some small strands are still sticking out. Also, there is no way that a short in the amp turn on wire could cause the amps not to draw the full 12-13V? or does that make no difference in available power? Regardless though the full power should be there at the distribution blocks right?

[chpthril]

So we know the issue is at the B+ or B- termination at the fuse box. What we need to do now, is isolate which one, the B+ or the B-. Do to this, connect the meter's B- lead to the battery B- post and touch the B+ to the positive Distribution fuse setscrew. If the B+ is good, you will read battery voltage. B+ the issue, you will read the 11.** as before.

Next, move the meter's B+ lead to the battery B+ post and meter's B- touched to the negative cable set screw at the distribution block. B- good, you will again read battery voltage. Neg bad, you will get the 11.** reading.

Once you know which is the primary issue, we can look closer.

A couple of stray strands is not an issue, although we want as many in the terminal as possible.

[kjohnson709]

So we know the issue is at the B+ or B- termination at the fuse box. What we need to do now, is isolate which one, the B+ or the B-. Do to this, connect the meter's B- lead to the battery B- post and touch the B+ to the positive Distribution fuse setscrew. If the B+ is good, you will read battery voltage. B+ the issue, you will read the 11.** as before.

Next, move the meter's B+ lead to the battery B+ post and meter's B- touched to the negative cable set screw at the distribution block. B- good, you will again read battery voltage. Neg bad, you will get the 11.** reading.

Okay I will try this. That is a long reach! lol from the back of the boat where the batteries are up to the distro bloc on the amp wall. hahaha. I'll figure something out. I have some spare wire with a ring terminal on it. I can probably connect to the batter with that and then stretch it up to the amp wall where my multimeter can reach

[chpthril]

Some spare speaker wire and you can mock up a meter extension for testing.

[kjohnson709]

Success!!!! I got all of my in boat speakers to work and boy the bass sounds good!

I am not exactly sure what the issues was but I think the 0awg ground connection was the main issue. I trimmed and re-stripped this end and connected each component and tested voltage after each connection. I have a feeling that when I originally stripped the cover off the 0awg ground wire (using a razor blade b/c I had no other way to strip 0awg) I accidentally cut through some of the copper wires causing a bad ground. When I would test the voltage at the wire directly I would jam the multimeter probe down into the ground wire which caused a "good" ground connection but in the distribution block it was a "bad" connection causing the voltage drop?

Mike - also the Exile audio amp config switch does control the in boat RCAs. Setting this to "4" (pg. 3 post #44 picture) sends a signal to all 4 in boat speaker channels via 1 set of RCAs and still allows a separate RCA input for the subwoofer. Perfect!

Now to do some wire management and tune and then on to the tower speakers.

Anyone have any "tips" on tuning the system? There is some notes in the WS-220 owners manual to tune to make sure the volume is set properly to avoid blowing speakers. I am going to start with this.

[chpthril]

so lets revisit the setup;

woofer 12FA? driven by the 5 chnl javelin. Does your version javelin have a subsonic filter dial for the woofer chnl, or just bass-boost, low-pass and gain?

alpine 4 chnl driving how many and what on the tower?

[Brianrzr]

Over the past summer, I have been with the professional tuners of DSP systems of three of the biggest names in marine audio, while they tuned systems in our boats (I do not work for Tige). They all go about tuning the same way. They turn off all but one speaker, and repeatedly play various songs they are familiar with, adjusting frequencies. I have been told believe it on not, that Michael Jackson's "Black and White" is one of the best songs to tune to, because of the broad musical spectrum it contains. Just as important as bringing out wanted frequencies, if a particular frequency causes a rattle of vibration, it is removed, eliminating the unwanted rattle. They use a lap top with DSP software which allows them to do this. The canceling of a particular frequencies is probably something add-on EQ's can not do. When satisfied, they move to the next speaker and repeat the process. The entire procedure takes 2-3 hours and requires the operating environment it will perform in for best results. I don't know if they are watching the screens for results or can actually hear the extreme limits, I do not have that good of ear. After a certain point, it all sounds good to me. To further explain the process, they then write a software program duplicating what they have done. We then load it into the DSP every time we build that model. Theoretically there is a different program for every floorplan. In another recent post someone commented that volume could be tuned up on their DSP system. Audio mfrs tune to the highest output a particular system is capable of. However, that is not saying larger or additional amps would not increase output. That is strictly the choice of the boat mfr. I know this is more that what you ask for, but I thought some may find it interesting and give you an idea of what to do.

[kjohnson709]

so lets revisit the setup;

woofer 12FA? driven by the 5 chnl javelin. Does your version javelin have a subsonic filter dial for the woofer chnl, or just bass-boost, low-pass and gain?

alpine 4 chnl driving how many and what on the tower?

Mike, here is the config:

Exile 5 Ch amp powers:
WS Revo 12 FA subwoofer - dedicated sub channel (CH 5) -mounted under helm
2 KM6's wired parallel (one bow one salon port side in stock locations) - CH1
2 KM6's wired parallel (one bow one salon starboard side in stock locations) - CH 2
1 KM8 midship walkway - CH 3
1 KM8 behind captain's chair - CH 4

Exile Javelin specs here

I have no idea what a subsonic filter, bass boost, etc. means? hahaha Are you are speaking a foreign language? I will google these terms.

1.jpg

Alpine V12 4 CH amp will power 4 KM8s on the tower (1 speaker per channel). I still need to install these but the Rockville pods you suggested look like they will mount properly to the flat surface on the tower.

[kjohnson709]

Over the past summer, I have been with the professional tuners of DSP systems of three of the biggest names in marine audio, while they tuned systems in our boats (I do not work for Tige). They all go about tuning the same way. They turn off all but one speaker, and repeatedly play various songs they are familiar with, adjusting frequencies. I have been told believe it on not, that Michael Jackson's "Black and White" is one of the best songs to tune to, because of the broad musical spectrum it contains. Just as important as bringing out wanted frequencies, if a particular frequency causes a rattle of vibration, it is removed, eliminating the unwanted rattle. They use a lap top with DSP software which allows them to do this. The canceling of a particular frequencies is probably something add-on EQ's can not do. When satisfied, they move to the next speaker and repeat the process. The entire procedure takes 2-3 hours and requires the operating environment it will perform in for best results. I don't know if they are watching the screens for results or can actually hear the extreme limits, I do not have that good of ear. After a certain point, it all sounds good to me. To further explain the process, they then write a software program duplicating what they have done. We then load it into the DSP every time we build that model. Theoretically there is a different program for every floorplan. In another recent post someone commented that volume could be tuned up on their DSP system. Audio mfrs tune to the highest output a particular system is capable of. However, that is not saying larger or additional amps would not increase output. That is strictly the choice of the boat mfr. I know this is more that what you ask for, but I thought some may find it interesting and give you an idea of what to do.

Thank you for the info! Sounds like I need to read up on tuning audio equipment before attempting a full tune on the system but it sounds like I have the ability to really make my new system shine if I do this right or take the boat to a professional shop!

[kjohnson709]

Tower speaker conundrum!!!!

My original plan was to run 4 sets of speaker wire through the 3 inch tube of my Phat Budde Extreme tower so that I can wire up the KM8's 1 speaker per amp channel. There are already a set of wires running through the tower for tower lights and an additional small gauge set of speaker wire from the old tower speakers. The old speakers were wired parallel. My plan was to use the existing speaker wires as a fish tape and as I pulled the old speaker wire out I would pull the new speaker wire through from top to bottom.

The problem I immediately see is that the diameter of the existing holes cut in the tower are not large enough to run the existing light wire and 4 new speaker wires through. I need to widen these holes but I don't want to remove all of the existing wires from the tower in order to widen because then I would have no existing wires to use as a "fish" and I would have a really hard time re-wiring everything from scratch. The Phat tower requires the wires to zig zag through the tower and the wires must exit one tube and then go back into another before exiting into the gunnel of the boat. This is because of a hinge in the tower.

Any ideas on how to widen these holes without damaging the existing wires or having to fully remove them? Or is my only option remove the existing wires or to drill a second set of holes (which wouldn't look clean)?

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IMG_9719.jpg

[kjohnson709]

deleted double post.

[chpthril]

What gauge speaker wire are you using?

You are using double pods, correct? Is there a pair of speaker wire terminals for each speaker or just one pair for each pod?

[kjohnson709]

What gauge speaker wire are you using?

You are using double pods, correct? Is there a pair of speaker wire terminals for each speaker or just one pair for each pod?

I am going to try to run 4 individual 7.7 inch Rockville pods with 4 KM8s. The dual pods hung too low and I had bimini clearance issues. Each speaker has its own connection inside of the pod and each pods will be mounted flat to the tower. I currently have 14GA copper wire with tinned ends. I was hoping to make that work but I can't see how I can wire up each speaker individually without widening the holes where the wires must exit the tower tubes.