Alternator Upgrade Situation

[spharis]

spharis,

so you can get us a connection with this guy? I'd love to have a beefier alternator. What information do you need so that I could get this done. I'm pretty sure mine is a one wire, but would have to confirm this. I'm driving to get my boat over the x-mas break, and would love to beef up the charging.

Thanks again.

Dom

I highly doubt you have a one-wire. I think most of the boats have an ignition hot on the back to power things like chokes, and hour meters.

And yes, I can get a hookup from him. He's probably going to want a picture so he can recommend one for you.

BTW the one I am getting is NOT the one in the ebay auction. After talking to him today, and sending some more photos, I am picking up a 130A for my boat, built in a similar Delco case. Ron is a tech at the shop he can take orders over the phone. When you guys get ready, hit me up, and I can get you in touch with him. He's a great guy, always eager to help, and keep you from overpaying. All their alts have a 1-year unconditional warranty. I met him through the internet while shopping for an HO alt for my tahoe. I try to recommend to people shopping around after my experiences.

[talltigeguy]

There was a thread about this on Wakeworld a while back and someone thought it was important to have an alternator that is spark protected because of fumes in the compartment - very different from a typical car application.

Does it also need to be more resistant to water splashing on it?

[R&T Babich]

All "marine" alternators have screens in the case openings to prevent a flame started by arcing in the alternator from spreading outside the case into an engine bay full of gas fumes if you had a fuel leak. There are screens or seals around distributor caps and in starters for the same reason. You should never run a regular "automotive" unit in your boat. "Marine" carbs have special seals around the throttle shafts and special bowl vent tubes so that leaks will drain into the intake, not the engine compartment.

[Jeff T]

All "marine" alternators have screens in the case openings to prevent a flame started by arcing in the alternator from spreading outside the case into an engine bay full of gas fumes if you had a fuel leak. There are screens or seals around distributor caps and in starters for the same reason. You should never run a regular "automotive" unit in your boat. "Marine" carbs have special seals around the throttle shafts and special bowl vent tubes so that leaks will drain into the intake, not the engine compartment.

So would the alts that this guy would build for us be safe for marine use in our boats??

Here are pics of my alt.

[Domsz06]

I was the one that started the discussion earlier about the alternators, and someone chimed in that said it had to be USCGA. Also they talked about how the alternators have the mesh, and other saftery precations. If this guy isn't making them for the boat and USCGA then i think I will have to pass. I know it's a slim shot if anything would happen, but pretty sure if something did and insurance came in and found out it wasn't USCGA, bye bye claim money.

Get back with us and let us know. I'll have pics of my alternator later today and will send them to you so he can see if he has one that will work.

Thanks so much!!

Dom

[Domsz06]

here is the thread talking about USCGA stuff

http://www.tigeowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2119

[chpthril]

The ebay listing that spharis provided says that they are USCGA! Sounds like these guys at dbelectric are straight up.

[Domsz06]

yeah that's right I remember seeing that now that you mention it. I'm so in if I can get one that works. Would love to have a stronger one, less strain on my batteries and motor having to rev it up all the time to top the batteries off. and makes me feel safer.

[spharis]

So would the alts that this guy would build for us be safe for marine use in our boats??

Here are pics of my alt.

Yes 100% safe


What is the part number on that alternator....I'll send it to him along with these pics to get his recommendation.

[spharis]

The ebay listing that spharis provided says that they are USCGA! Sounds like these guys at dbelectric are straight up.

Yes they're legit. I've been running his alt for almost 2 years on my tahoe. He even sent an overdrive pulley after the idle was a little lower than what I needed.

[Jeff T]

I have it at home. I will get it at lunch. Do you have a recommendation on what size I would need based on what I posted in my first post?

[spharis]

yeah that's right I remember seeing that now that you mention it. I'm so in if I can get one that works. Would love to have a stronger one, less strain on my batteries and motor having to rev it up all the time to top the batteries off. and makes me feel safer.

Get a picture, or a part number off it.

[spharis]

I have it at home. I will get it at lunch. Do you have a recommendation on what size I would need based on what I posted in my first post?

Considering the pricing they have, you might as well get a part number, and let me get him in touch with you. If you figure on spending $130-$150 you will get something that will charge 3 batteries and run your blower, lights, stereo, and the boat next to you. That would be about 125-130A or so. You could probably get by with a 100A. That will do about 65-70 @ idle, so if your stereo is pulling 40A, you have a nice reserve for lights, charging, blowers, etc.

[Domsz06]

I'd love to have something that charges my two batteries and runs my stereo at idle. That would be awesome!! I'm for sure getting pics and sending them to you. Hope I can get someone to take the pics today!

[Jeff T]

Considering the pricing they have, you might as well get a part number, and let me get him in touch with you. If you figure on spending $130-$150 you will get something that will charge 3 batteries and run your blower, lights, stereo, and the boat next to you. That would be about 125-130A or so. You could probably get by with a 100A. That will do about 65-70 @ idle, so if your stereo is pulling 40A, you have a nice reserve for lights, charging, blowers, etc.

OK. I just didn't know if it were possible to have one that was too big for an application.

Here is my part number. I was crammed into my spare battery compartment, trying to read the upside down, scratched up part number by flashlight. I hope I got it right. Part #883077-1. Pics were posted last night. I will PM you my phone number and email address. Thanks for your help.