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22ve Amp & Tower Wiring

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    22ve Amp & Tower Wiring

    Any tips for routing new larger gauge wiring from the house battery in the rear port locker up to the port helm locker for amp upgrade. Also for replacing the 16ga tower wiring with 12 on Eseries tower. Not sure how difficult this will be or if there are components removal required for better access. Installing a pair of Rev 10's and Syn dx4 amp. Thanks in advance.




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    #2
    what year and model boat?
    Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

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      #3
      Sorry about that 2008 22ve E-Series Tower

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        #4
        Odd to 16ga in the tower, Tige was using 12 from the factory, so definitely good idea to upgrade. Easy to use the old wire to pull in your new cable.

        Less then ideal to connect the amp cable direct to battery if the your battery system is still OEM. Good time to consider upgrading the battery switch configuration if it is the original on/off battery switch and diode isolator. Anywho, amp cable will easily follow the boat harness that runs under the gunwale from the back to the front.
        Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

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          #5
          Thx. I do have the on /off switch in the port locker back wall, can you tell me a little more about you might suggest with an upgrade in that regards. I thought I may have read one of your comments in a different post about using a switch style fuse for the amp cable, but maybe mistaken. The amps will be the original Kicker zx700.5 and the the new dx4.

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            #6
            We do a lot of conversion where we remove that factory switch and diode pack and install a Dual Circuit Plus switch and ACR. This puts ALL the loads through the switch, so it acts as a master shutoff. it also eliminates the voltage that you get through the diode. So some of the alternator output, does not reach the batteries.

            Next thing we do, is run a large gauge trunk line from the switch/batteries up to the amp area, then break off with branch lines to each amp, rather then individual cables runs for each amp. Cleaner, less terminations of the battery/switch, no voltage differential between the amps and other audio.
            Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

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              #7
              Great information, thank you.

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                #8
                Ok searched a few older posts on the switch, is Blue Seas the one to choose, and what is the proper way to remove / disconnect the old diode box? (Mine is behind the engine on the transom). Thx again.

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                  #9
                  With the batteries disconnected, the diode is safe to disconnect all cables.
                  Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

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                    #10
                    Just wondering when you do the upgraded switch do you reinstall back on the port locker transom wall or do you relocate (maybe into the engine compartment or elsewhere) so it doesn't interfere with the locker ballast sac and/or get wet if using a tsunami pump.

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                      #11
                      I like to move the switch up to the top of the locker wall.
                      Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

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