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Crackling coming from SYN-6

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    #1

    Crackling coming from SYN-6

    I've read countless "My Wetsounds is crackling" threads, and now it is my turn. If you search this forum for the word "crackling" there is a lot of entries. So much for these high quality Wet Sounds amplifiers.

    So it looks to only be the left side in-boats that are the problems. There is no issue with the Syn-2 speakers, nor the right channel of the Syn 6. I've changed inputs and the crackling remains. So that rules out anything upstream. This is the wire I disconnect to make it not crackle.

    IMG_7835.jpg

    Has anyone else had a similar issue that was repaired? This issue appears to be intermittent, but is getting to be more consistent. I sure don't want to have to replace the entire amplifier. It is 4 season old. Boat is a 2013 Z1 with Syn-6, Syn2 with Rev 10 towers.
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    #2
    Describe "changed inputs".

    Usually, when we unplug an RCA input and the noise stops, it indicates the amp is not the cause. If it was, the noise would still be there.
    Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

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      #3
      Originally posted by chpthril View Post
      Describe "changed inputs".

      Usually, when we unplug an RCA input and the noise stops, it indicates the amp is not the cause. If it was, the noise would still be there.
      If I swap the red RCA for the white RCA, the crackling stays on the right channel. This tells me the corruption is occurring inside the amplifier on Channel 1. Channel 2 always sounds fine regardless of what input I give it.

      Is there a way to force the amps to use Channels 3/4 instead of 1/2? That would eliminate out the pre-amp section of the Syn-6, if that's where the problem lies.

      Comment

        #4
        You can plug the 1/2 RCAs into the 3/4, then switch the chnl 3/4 to input mode to 3/4. This will give the main cabin speakers a direct input, but note that the bow will NOT play.

        Have you swapped speakers to see if the issue is post amp?
        Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

        Comment

          #5
          Originally posted by chpthril View Post
          You can plug the 1/2 RCAs into the 3/4, then switch the chnl 3/4 to input mode to 3/4. This will give the main cabin speakers a direct input, but note that the bow will NOT play.

          Have you swapped speakers to see if the issue is post amp?
          Okay. That would help at least get me some sound. Right now I have 3 of 4 channels working for the in-boats, but that right rear channel is a mess. I didn't check but I believe the right front was fine.

          I haven't tried switching speakers yet. Both the helm speaker and the mid-ship speaker make the noise on the right side. So I assume those must be wired in parallel with the ones up front being on the front channels.

          If it end up being a faulty amp, I have a couple old amplifiers I could swap in. But that would really ruin the nice layout job Tige has done up there. Sigh.

          Comment

            #6
            WoT

            Is your HTX2 a DSP version?
            Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

            Comment

              #7
              Originally posted by Waiting on parts
              I have the same problem with the Wetsounds HTX-2 amp. This will be the 2nd one the dealer replaces. Check your tower speaker wires to make sure they are not pinched or insulation may be damaged. This is a problem when the amp gets hot, in my situation. Usually happens after 2 hours + of use.
              My dealer just let me know that Tige just recently put out a bulletin claiming that some of the Wetsounds amps had the wrong "tube" or something put into some of them. Water testing and bench testing wouldn't reveal the problem (they had this statement in there so people knew it wasn't a QA issue with Tige) so it might explain some of this. Waiting-on-parts maybe this could address your problem? My dealer is about to swap my head unit because it would APPEAR that it's the HU that's the issue, specifically with the Bluetooth output however if that doesn't work, the next step is swapping my HTX-6. I have a very, very similar problem the OP in this post is having where only 1/2 sides of an RCA is going bad... I am however still getting music to come thru so hoping it's upstream from the amp that's causing it...

              Comment

                #8
                My understanding that the bulletin only applies to the DSP amps, not the retail traditional versions. I say this, because this bulletin when to tige only and was not also sent to retail dealers, whom do not have access to the DSP for retail sales.

                So it could apply to WoP, which is why i asked back on the 19th, if his HTX-2 is an OEM installed DSP.
                Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

                Comment

                  #9
                  Originally posted by chpthril View Post
                  My understanding that the bulletin only applies to the DSP amps, not the retail traditional versions. I say this, because this bulletin when to tige only and was not also sent to retail dealers, whom do not have access to the DSP for retail sales.

                  So it could apply to WoP, which is why i asked back on the 19th, if his HTX-2 is an OEM installed DSP.
                  Could be Chp my dealer and I were just spit balling when he mentioned the bulletin so might not apply here....

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