New Install - Critique Wanted!

[MizzouWake]

This forum is always so helpful, thank you everyone for that!

I thought I might post my upcoming stereo install to see if any of the pros out there could critique my plan and maybe confirm I'm on the right track.

I'm attaching a picture of the wiring diagram I drew up for my install, but here is the summary.

I know I'm light on Sub....that's for next summer!

Thoughts and comments are appreciated.....



Tower
Replace existing 18ga. wire and pull new 14ga wire.
Adding pair of Rev 410's.
Adding SynDx4 (CH 1+2 Bridged for 400W, CH 3+4 Bridged for 400W)

Boat Speakers
Replacing old Alpine boat speakers (6) with (6) new XS-650's
Keeping existing wiring, I believe it's 18ga.
(4) XS-650's on a new Syn Dx4, the other (2) on existing amp described below
Adding SynDx4 (CH 1 Thru 4 each get (1) Xs-650 at 125W / Ea

Sub and Remaining Boat Speakers
Keeping existing Alpine MRX-V60 Amp
(2) remaining Xs-650 go to (CH 1+2 Bridged for 150W Ea, same for CH 3+4)
(1) Existing Alpine sub go to Ch 5 for 300W x 1

Adding WS-420BT
RCA to Tower Input new Syn DX4
RCA to Boat Input new Syn Dx4
RCA to Sub Input existing MRX-V60
RCA to existing head end

Adding power distribution block
4Ga power from each amp, 1/0 Ga out to battery
250A 1/0 Fuse after distribution?

Adding ground distribution block
4Ga ground from each amp, 1/0 Ga out to battery

Adding SPDT Relay
18 Ga Power Turn on back to head end
18 Ga Power Turn on's out to each amp
18 Ga Power Turn on out to WS-420 BT
18 Ga inline fuse to power?

[chpthril]

Quick thoughts:

4 x 12ga cabling for the tower speakers

A Syn-DX-6 will drive all 6 of your in-boats at 100W rms and your existing woofer @ either 300W or 600W, depending on whether its a 2 or 4 ohm. Retire the alpine 5 chnl. The 600W from the Syn-DX6 will give you room to expand that woofer, so say an XS-12 or new Revo-12.

Will look closer at the diagram later. Gotta head to the lake to dunk an Axis and test the ballast system.

[MizzouWake]

Quick thoughts:

4 x 12ga cabling for the tower speakers

Regarding the 4x12 ga. Is this 4 conductor wire? I only see two conductors coming from a Rev410?

I like your recommendation on the DX6. Will go that direction and eliminate an amp.

Also - is there a huge difference in utilizing aluminum conductor for amp power wiring over copper? Seems much more reasonable in price.

[chpthril]

Yes, 4 conductor 12 gauge. You need two conductors for each pod and 12ga is better for that amp power.

Skip the CCA and go 100% OFC. Better at heat dissipation, lower resistance, Resist oxidation and corrosion.

[MizzouWake]

Now that I've minimized to two amps, is there any benefit of....

1. Having power distribution block ((2) 4ga. cables from amps w/ 1/0 out to battery)?
2. Relay turn on switch, or can head unit handle two amps + WS-420BT?

I'm also going to do a series LEDs throughout (tower rings, speaker rings, etc.). Is there a clean way of landing those power/grnds in one spot?

[chpthril]

1. Having power distribution block ((2) 4ga. cables from amps w/ 1/0 out to battery)?

Yes. I prefer a large ga trunk line that feeds all amps through a distribution block of some sort. I use a lot of POS/GND combo blocks. 1/0ga in and 4ga out for both the B+ and B- and feeds two amps.

2. Relay turn on switch, or can head unit handle two amps + WS-420BT?

Yes, the head unit will support 2 amps and the EQ. However, I might just consider wiring in a relay to support the addition of another amp in the future.

I'm also going to do a series LEDs throughout (tower rings, speaker rings, etc.). Is there a clean way of landing those power/grnds in one spot?

Have you already purchased the speakers? If not, I would consider getting the XS-650RGB (retired and on sale) or the brand new Revo-6 which come with the LEDs.

I gather the boat only has one battery and no main switch? If so, consider doing a house bank and dual battery switch.