Budget Stereo Advice

[tower210]

Looking for a somewhat inexpensive retrofit for my (new to me) 2001 2100v. It still has the original clarion head unit and speakers (which are completely toast) in the original locations. No tower, mostly looking for really clear sound while cruising on the lake.

I have an existing Alpine MRP-M200 (I know is old, cheap, mono sub amp). I mention it only because I own it.

Looking to replace the (4) 6.5's in their stock locations.

I have considered, that I might be able to fit the Kicker KM8's in the rear location (fronts look like it won't fit) with the equivalent 6.5's in the front. The hope with this system would be if I could drive them with relatively good power (need amp); would the KM8's provide enough low end to suffice without a sub?

The coaxial 8's are a good bit more $$ than the 6.5's; should I just get 4 of the 6.5's and use the Alpine to run a 10?

Am I better off buying a high end 2 channel amp and running the front left and back left in parallel for a 2 ohm load? or a 4 channel 4 ohm?

I kinda feel like somewhere between 75 and 100 rms is required to get any sort of clean, clear sound.

Recommendations?

[chpthril]

Just want to clarify, you have pair of speakers in the bow and pair on the main cabin?

No, an 8" coax will not substituted for a subwoofer. However, stepping up to an 8" full range from a 6.5" is a tremendous upgrade in terms of mid-bass and overall output. I would start by looking into their fitment. You will need a little more depth and 8" OD clearance.

[tower210]

Budget Stereo Advice

Yes, (2) 6.5" in the bow.





And (2) 6.5 in the wrap seating





I took your advice and did some careful measurements. It looks like the current speakers are actually 6 7/8"






But, I can't see any easy method to make 8.0" OD fit.....






Man, the old ones are crusty......


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[jimidemo]

Try looking into a pioneer GM-9605 amp. About $200. 4 X 75watt RMS with a 5th channel for a sub which claims 350 watt RMS. I run one with 4 kicker 6.5's, not sure which ones off hand, and a kicker 12" sub. Its loud and clear. The sub could hit harder. I have some kicker tower speakers from Chpthril that turned out great. I kind of pieced / redid my system this year. Wasn't planning on it, but if I was going to do it again I would have gone with all kicker amps too. Not to say I still can't. Just not yet.

[chpthril]

For the Alpine MRP-M200, I would suggest a Kicker 10C12D4 in a ported enclosure. This is going to get you max bass from the amps 200W rms output.

For the in-boats. Doesnt look good for fitting the KM8 in either the aft or bow spots. So, stick the KM654CW 6.5"

Now, I would seriously consider adding a 2nd pair to the main cabin. Locate these close to the helm/captain's chair. This brings the sound stage forward, to the helm area. This is way more effective that over powering and over driving the aft speakers, in order to hear them while underway.

The Kicker KXM400.4 would be my amp choice to drive 3 pair of in-boats. There are plenty other 4 chnls amp that are good choice though, The Kicker is just one I like.

[tower210]

CHPTHRIL, thanks for the advice....couple of followup questions.

I am guessing the 654's are a lot better than the 604? There seems to be a significant price difference.

Are there any 7" coax speakers you recommend? It appears that they would fit. It's a tiny bit bigger than the 6.5s (Alpine type R's?)

I appreciate the feedback

[chpthril]

The Alpine SPR-M700 as well as the JL 7.7 are both right at 7.75" OD. Thats whats needed across a flat surface before the deck start to radius.

Yes, you want the 654 over the 604. The 654 uses a .75" dome tweeter where as the 604 uses a .5" "W" tweeter. The larger dome is much better.

[tower210]

Great!


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[tower210]

For the in-boats. Doesnt look good for fitting the KM8 in either the aft or bow spots. So, stick the KM654CW

The Kicker KXM400.4 would be my amp choice to drive 3 pair of in-boats. There are plenty other 4 chnls amp that are good choice though, The Kicker is just one I like.

Would you do the 654 or 652? The 652 would give me up to 100 rms per channel, so the gain could be down a ways vs. a cooler running amp with the 654's?

[chpthril]

If sticking with 2 pair of speakers, go with the KM654 and the KXM400.2 2 chnl. Theres your 100W rms to each.

If you plan to add a 3rd pair, then you would want to go with the KM654 for those 2 pair on the main cabin, each pair wired in parallel to 2 ohm. 50W rms is the net wattage.

[tower210]

If sticking with 2 pair of speakers, go with the KM654 and the KXM400.2 2 chnl. Theres your 100W rms to each.

If you plan to add a 3rd pair, then you would want to go with the KM654 for those 2 pair on the main cabin, each pair wired in parallel to 2 ohm. 50W rms is the net wattage.

This winter is prolly just 2 pair, so your thinking 2 pair in parallel?




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[chpthril]

Yes, 2 pair on the KXM400.2 with each pair wired in parallel. Just note, you will have stereo, but not front to rear fade.

[tower210]

That's ok. Your the best!! Thanks for the help!!!


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[chpthril]

Thanks, let me know if I can be of any further help.

[tower210]

Budget Stereo Advice

Got the start of my upgrade installed.











Got it all installed an hooked up, and at first wasn't so impressed. Then I wondered just how bad this thing was:



Pulled the RCA's off and hooked up my iPhone. Wow!! The head unit is way toast. I figured it was on the list, but clearly needs to happen now. I'm waffling between a full head unit and the JL Bluetooth only thing. Great call on the 645s. If you notice the way the grills protrude they rub on the seats a bit now. The 8's would have been tough to fit. Might do those if I put another pair by the helm since I will have to cut anyway!

I added one group31 deep cycle battery for just the amp, may adde another when I put in the sub amp.


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