09 RZ2 system install

[Jmuck]

Well I am knee deep in my system make over (actually 100% overhaul) I thought I would share some of the progress. I purchased the boat back in late June and it was sporting 6 XS650's, 4 Pro 80's a Syn2 and two junk amps and a rats nest from hell.

Here's the equipment list:
4 Rev10's
Leaving two of the Pro80's (upgrading them with Rev10's this winter)
2 SD2's
1 SD6
2 US Amps CTX1600.2's. They'll power the Pro 80's (upgrading to SD2's later this winter)
Only using for now because I have 5 of them laying around and wanted to see how they stacked up against the SD2's
6 XS650B's. Existing ones covers were cracked from being installed incorrectly.
2- DD 2512's
DD Audio MC2
Audio Control 4.1 EQ
Stereo only battery bank: 6 Trojan T-1275's in port side rear locker
Led's to replace tower and docking lights
Powderocated black dock light housings
Zero Dark rock lights to replace OE courtesy lights
Kenwood h/unit and new wired remotes

My goal for this one is incredibly clean and loud and an OE feel to it. Priority number two was giving up as little storage as possible. This boat was an upgrade from my 06 Tahoe Q4 that had zero storage.

Enough jabber, on to pics.

Here's the boat. I removed the graphics since they were torn up, retinted the windows with Llumar CTX 5% film.

Courtesy lights replaced


Painted the engine cover


Board for the SD2's and 6 resined and matching carpet


And board installed.

Don't mind that gap, the trash can had to come out squeeze it in and wasn't back in all the way.

Here is the front board. It's actually a 1" square tubing rack we built that bolts in at the top and we installed nutserts in the stringer to make sure it doesn't move.
The DD MC2 is mounted on the back side of the rack and accessed through the trash can hole. The trash can will be going away and a new trim panel with metal mesh and speaker grille cloth on it to help vent the area. All distribution blocks are hidden between both racks.

First pair of Rev10's are installed and wired.


Here are the mounts for the 2nd pair. We are building these to mimic the OE tower mounts. They will sandwich between the speaker and tower. We will have two small access holes on top of the tower for nut and bolt access. Grommets will cover the holes.


Next up is the sub box. They'll both be under the drivers helm and obviously the wall will be cut out to make room.

[chpthril]

2 US Amps CTX1600.2's. They'll power the Pro 80's (upgrading to SD2's later this winter)
Only using for now because I have 5 of them laying around and wanted to see how they stacked up against the SD2's

At quick glance, the RE ctx1600 would be closer to the Syn-2 power wise and far short of the SD-2.
The SD series are class-D, the RE ctx are class-a/b, so about 60% less efficient watt to watt.
The SD-2 delivers 400W rms x 2 @ 4 and 620W rms X 2 @ 2 ohm. The ctx1600.2 is 200W rms x 2 @ 4 ohm and 350W rms x 2 @ 2 ohm. So roughly half the output.
The ctx will only run stereo or mixed mono, where as the SD series can run summed mono. I like this feature for a tower setup.
The SD series is full marine
The SD series is full processor controlled with roll-back protection.

The SD-2 will drive two pair of Rev-10 with ease! I would not hesitate to pull both those ctx1600.2 and replace with one SD-2.

Cant wait to see the woofers and those speaker collars. Someone round here did some out of fiberglass.

[Jmuck]

At quick glance, the RE ctx1600 would be closer to the Syn-2 power wise and far short of the SD-2.
The SD series are class-D, the RE ctx are class-a/b, so about 60% less efficient watt to watt.
The SD-2 delivers 400W rms x 2 @ 4 and 620W rms X 2 @ 2 ohm. The ctx1600.2 is 200W rms x 2 @ 4 ohm and 350W rms x 2 @ 2 ohm. So roughly half the output.
The ctx will only run stereo or mixed mono, where as the SD series can run summed mono. I like this feature for a tower setup.
The SD series is full marine
The SD series is full processor controlled with roll-back protection.

The SD-2 will drive two pair of Rev-10 with ease! I would not hesitate to pull both those ctx1600.2 and replace with one SD-2.

Cant wait to see the woofers and those speaker collars. Someone round here did some out of fiberglass.

Fully aware of the marine aspect of them. I've been around Wetsounds since they first came out.

The CTX's perform pretty well actually. I spent about an hour yesterday playing one 10 on the SD2 and the other on the CTX. The SD2 has a warmer, more natural sound but overall volume it was very hard to hear the difference unless you were really trying to find it like I was. The SD2's obviously win out with the efficiency and features built into them. The CTX is old tech that just works, though not ideal. Though bridged power the CTX was clearly louder but quality suffered like crazy. I also played with bridging the SD2 on a single 10 and it was b.a!

Its set up with a SD2 pushing one pair of 10's. The CTX's are running each Pro 80.

I actually like them in stereo, this is a set up for surfing and when hanging out.

The collars are coming out nice, that pic I posted was right after welding it up, looks so much nicer smoothed out.

I changed my mind on the subs mounting. I've gotta test fit and see if my idea will work before going any further.

Also once I get this finished up I'll be in touch for ballast upgrades. I've got one fitting that leaks when filling up and want to get rid of the u shaped sack in the bow for a single on the port side.

[chpthril]

Surfing is where the mono shines.

[Jmuck]

I just picked up the tower and dock LED's and the dock light housings from powder.



Still have a bunch of little stuff to handle. Sub box trim panels, paint the rev10 grille's and lots of tuning.

[BCRider]

Are those LED's much brighter than the stock halogen MR11 or 14...can't remember what it is off hand. Thought about doing this but really don't use my lights much.

Also have thought of painting my engine cover to match the colors of my boat. May have too. Looks good.

[Jmuck]

Are those LED's much brighter than the stock halogen MR11 or 14...can't remember what it is off hand. Thought about doing this but really don't use my lights much.

Also have thought of painting my engine cover to match the colors of my boat. May have too. Looks good.

They seem to be quite a bit brighter, I was only able to fire them up today in the shop, it hurts to look at vs the halogen. I'm a little disappointed bc they are still a warm white and I wanted more of a white look but they are hard to find in a outdoor bulb for this application. I'll grab some pics once it's dark.

[Jmuck]

Hard to capture the light on camera phone, but they're bright!

[Jmuck]

She's making noise. Still have two panels to build for the sub boxes but I just flat ran out of time before leaving for the lake tomorrow. She sounds good, lot of tuning to do yet. Surprisingly it's not a pita to step down into the boat and not smack your face.

I know it needs two upgrades stat. 1: Another M2C for the subs.
2: probably four more SD2's for the tens, not quite the headroom I hoped, but I'll test that theory after I have the batteries fully charged. It rolled the volume back on the tens twice when testing it.

Grilles are painted, this is from last night




Sub box (two of them). Normally I have my installers do the wood working portion of my builds but I decided I wanted to tackle this part myself also, not to mention we have been slammed and would have felt bad asking them to stay late. Anyway, I got the design from my previous boat that had two of these in it that slammed, so I copied it. They received two coats of resin and then I spray lined them. One goes in front of the drivers console (sub facing the wall) and the second one also faces the wall.
The panels I still have to build will be just a bit taller than the boxes and be carpeted so it looks like a shelf.

[chpthril]

2: probably four more SD2's for the tens, not quite the headroom I hoped,

Two SD-4 each bridged into 2 chnl mode will rock those tens. Plenty of headroom there with far less realestate needed. Or a pair of SD-6, which would leaved you 4 extra chnls for 2 pair of XS-808