syn6 issues

[kmkramer71]

So I've been having issues with my setup since buying my 11 RZ4. Been working with chpthril in PMs, moving to here since his box is full. My sub kept cutting in/out throughout the day. I was all set to have dealer swap syn6 for htx6. Removed the syn6 and decided to measure impedance on sub wires (2.3ohms). hmmm syn6 bridge mode chn5/6 rated at 4ohms. Also if I take the htx6 I lose my sub volume control. So I told the dealer to swap the sub with a newer 4ohm model, XS-10FA. I have no idea what size my current box is and maybe a 12" would be better. If I'm not mistaken the syn6 can drive sub bridged 600w@4ohm.

thoughts?

[kodiak ak]

Wetsounds xs-12 in a ported box is better than the IB 10" . A lot more boom for your $$ if you are staying with the syn-6.

[chpthril]

So it sounds like the sub was bridged on the amp, when you got the boat. Is the woofer indeed placed in a small sealed enclosure?

A bridged 2 ohm load will certainly pose an issue for the Syn-6. So, lets presume that the bridged 2 ohm is the root issue and the woofer and amp are fine. and lets also presume the woofer IS NOT in an enclosure

A) wire the 2 ohm woofer to chnl 5 so it receives the available 300W rms. Simple, done costs nothing and the performance from the woofer will be good. Even with a bridged 4 ohm 10fa, you will not be unleashing the full 600W rms of the Syn-6. The extra head room of a 600w potential is a plus, but its not going to be a seat of the pants difference.

B) swap current 10fa 4 ohm DVC for a single 4 ohm SVC and bridge the woofer. IMO, if si was going to spend money on a woofer and had an amp that would supply up to 600W rms, I would upgrade to 12" woofer and build an enclosure. More bass and deeper bass from the same amp. Call the woofer purchase a wash as you are faced with buying a woofer any way.

C) Buy a 12" woofer and mono amp setup. Leave the Syn-6 dedicated to the 3 pair of in-boats. A little bit more of an investment over B, but you end up with an in-boat upgrade and sub woofer upgrade for just the cost of a woofer and mono amp.

Now, if someone has build an enclosure for the 10fa, there id suggest you upgrade with either option B or C above.

[chpthril]

Wetsounds xs-12 in a ported box is better than the IB 10" . A lot more boom for your $$ if you are staying with the syn-6.

Its better than 10 in a sealed, or a 10 in a ported or a sealed 12 Comparing a 10IB to a ported 12" is like a Subaru Brat to an F250 towing cpacity

[kmkramer71]

there is definitely an enclosure as I cannot see the back of the sub from the bow compartment. The dealer and I are splitting the cost. I might be able to cutout enough to squeeze in the 12 into the existing enclosure. Not sure about porting.

C) Buy a 12" woofer and mono amp setup. Leave the Syn-6 dedicated to the 3 pair of in-boats. A little bit more of an investment over B, but you end up with an in-boat upgrade and sub woofer upgrade for just the cost of a woofer and mono amp.

how so on in-boat upgrade?

[chpthril]

Bridge the bow pair on chnls 1/2 and 3/4 for up to 200W rms to each. Wire the aft pairs in parallel on chnls 5 and 6 for 155W to each speaker. Basically, you double the wattage to each in-boat.

[kmkramer71]

questions

3 amp solution
- syn6 drives all in boats as suggested. I assume I have xs-65s rated (RMS Watts 60 Watts/Peak Watts 120 Watts) so is 200w RMS ok? wiring/settings diagram
- assuming ht1 to drive 4ohm sub regardless of model chosen. this would require running new power/ground to new amp or running all new large gauge to new distribution at amp location

OEM solution
I have 2 bow and 4 aft
- get replacement 4ohm 10", wired to chn5, xover low, mono 305W @ 4ohm
- wire left inboats in parallel
- wire right inboats in parallel
-- left side bridged chnls 1/2 155W @ 4ohm
-- right side bridged chnls 3/4 155W @ 4ohm

pro60s remain on syn2 2x200W @ 4ohm

[chpthril]

Unless your boat was ordered stereo delete, it would have come OEM with the XS-650

With the HT-1, you want a single 2 ohm voice coil or dual 4 ohm voice coil woofer. The HT-1 will deliver 600W rms with a 2 ohm load

If you get a new 4 ohm 10fa, you'd want to bridge it on the Syn-6 chnls 5/6. in-boat speaker stay as is.

[kmkramer71]

sorry I'm starting to confuse myself even.
I'm pushing for the 4ohm replacement 10" at this point.Can I not bridge all the inboats across ch 1-4 like I proposed above? I don't need fading on the inboats because the fading in between inboats and the towers

[chpthril]

I not bridge all the inboats across ch 1-4 like I proposed above?

No need to, no advantage. Leave bows on 1 and 2 and the main cabin on 3 and 4 just as they should be now.

[kmkramer71]

syn6 back in. have an extra black wire that was not in my picture, perhaps it was stuck under the amp?

in boats wired the way they were
chnl 1/2 bow 3.9ohm
chnl 3/4 aft 2.6ohm
chnl 5 sub 2.3ohm

sub not cutting out now but sub knob, chnl5 gain and xover dials very touchy. will be playing all day tomorrow and see if it holds up.

[kmkramer71]

Seems better but my Tige is still messed up. This is in Sirius mode. I've already updated FW Viper v01096 30

IMG_1370.jpg

[chpthril]

Keep in mind that the TT is just a slave remote to the head unit. So if something is not right at the TT, try it at the transom remote and at the head unit directly.

[kmkramer71]

the head unit was showing correct information. I did not check the transom remote. I'm about ready to have the dealer have a look. I'm tired of dealing with it every time I go out.

assuming I do eventually get a WS zone control would there be any benefit to the sub knob at that point? ie should I just go head and get the htx-6 swapout? is the syndx-6 the proper replacement for a syn6?

[kmkramer71]

dealer is buying a new 10" 4ohm. does anyone have an idea of what the extra black wire would be? it seems like a ground wire, thicker gauge than the stock speaker wires and there is no label like on the speaker wires. it does not show up in my picture that I took before removing the syn6.