XXXv2 question..

[chpthril]

The 3 ohm wattage to the 1200.1 is a guestamate at best, but 800-900 sounds about right, but thats at 14.4 volts. deduct about 10% with what the alternator will actually produce, then a total drop of about 20%-25% at static voltage. IMO, I would go with the 12W6 and tune appropriately, over the 12W7 when 750-800W is all you are going to get.

Would a 750 watt 12w7 be better than an 1100 watt XXX?

Depends on what better means. The 12" driven with 1100 watts rms is going to have the greater output. The W7 will yield better SQ, but @ that wattage, will actually be a step down from the output you have now. Not sure what your current enclosure diemsions are, but a 12W7 will likely need about a 2.0 to 2.2 ft3 gross internal. A little larger then the XXXv2.

[Truekaotik]

My opinion on the 12w7 at a lower wattage is No, it won't have more output.

[dj2]

Just when I thought we had heard all of your opinions....
If only the Internet allowed everyone to have their own opinion and an OP could make a decision on their own.

[dj2]

I always try to err on the side of not blowing my **** up, the 12w7 with "about" 750 watts will give you better sound, be less likely to blow and have close to the output of the XXX at 1100 watts. It will also save you money. Now, if that is not an issue then do whatever

[chpthril]

No doubt that the W series JL woofers lean WAY more toward the SQ side then a Wet Sounds woofer, but with only 750W, the W7 does not offer a $300 dollar advantage over the W6. Set with a volt meter, there is no more chance at blowing the W6 on the 1200.1, then any other sub/amp setup.

[dj2]

I was not debating the w7 vs w6 statement mike, we are on a similar page, I have a personal preference to the w7 is all. I am arguing against replacing the sub and the amp

[Bryan]

Well crap...

[Truekaotik]

The W6 off his 1200.1 is better than the w7 on 750. Tuning is key to not blowing stuff up, you can have two identical woofers, 1 on 750 watts and the other on 1200 watts. Say the 750 one is not tuned properly and the 1200 is. The 750 sub will fail when pushed, the 1200 sub will go forever
Don't be mad I said no to what was stated, it's the truth, I don't make this crap up. A w6 also has less mass to move than a w7, while small increase, it still applies. I love JL, problem is, he was wanting a marine sub to replace his non marine one. Your dropping wattage and increasing woofer mass thus decreasing output. It's about knowing all the product and offering a choice based of the OP's wants and needs.. That's all bud..

So if you change your statement to a W6 and his amplifier, that's the right application besides loosing a marine grade sub.

[Truekaotik]

Sticking JL as you like DJ2, he will also benefit from upping to the 13w6, increasing surface area

[dj2]

Yes I understand he difference in the mass of the 2 woofers and the DF of that amp is capable of running the w6 or w7. I was taking for granted that he would have the woofer installed in a properly tuned enclosure. It is well known that underpowering a loudspeaker is more often the reason for "blowing" them due to the introduction of distortion and "square waves" when trying to get maximum volume so I do see what you are getting at. One also has to consider cone surface area vs X max in this case, for instance a 10w7 is capable of higher output than a 13w3 at the same input level, given that power is sufficient for the woofer ( this does not apply to 150 watts for example) and also has higher power handling ability which will actually provide a higher output capability. That taken into account the 12w7 is capable of higher output than a 12w6 or 13w6 (if you can find one), taking for granted they are all in the proper enclosure, provided sufficient power (750 watts is sufficient for all 3) and tuned optimally. The difference here is getting the 12w6 in a d4 configuration and having double the rms power handling would theoretically allow him to have slightly higher output than the 12w7 at ~750 watts which is right at recommended power.

I don't make this stuff up either, I have been involved in 12v electronics for going on 25 years and carried MECP certification back when it meant actually something. I always try to keep my opinions just that and in the easiest terms to understand because in the end I am not the one that has to pay the bill and live with the system. Whether I am giving advice or when I was selling/installing equipment I kept a great reputation and customer base because I educate and allow others to make the best decision based on their need and budget.

In this situation the OP can't really go wrong, it is just a matter of deciding what fits him and his budget best

[Truekaotik]

Agree all are viable options.

[Bryan]

Thanks for all the input.. I never realized it was gonna be this complicated when I asked the original question. I like the idea of the jl because I've always heard they were exceptional subs, but it is going in a boat. Everything else currently in the boat is wet sounds. Revs on the tower and 650's in the boat with wet sounds HT amps.. Only off brand stuff is the ID sub and Kicker amp, because I had them already. Boat didn't have a sub when I bought it this spring so I just threw my setup out of my Yukon under the helm... It's a custom built and tuned to the ID specs ported enclosure, so it's really loud, and I really like it that way. But, I want to do something more permanent for the boat, which lends towards marine rated equipment and the wet sounds sub, ideally with the sd2 amp, but that probly can't happen right now. I was hoping the XXX would work with my current amp so I wouldn't have to buy both, but it doesn't look like that's gonna happen for me. I'm still questioning if its even going to be an upgrade, other than the XXX is new and mots marine rated...

[Truekaotik]

Definite upgrade will be to get a Kicker 15L7d4 ported and use your current amplifier... That's the cheapest route I can think of after your post...
I should add you need to see if you can fit the enclosure. But hey it's a option...

[dj2]

Sounds like you're truly looking for a permanent marine solution. I would save up the cash to get what you want which sounds like the Wet Sounds sub and amp. Anything else would be "settling" or a temporary upgrade, do it once and be happy with it in my opinion. Moving to marine specific equipment is definitely an upgrade even if it gives you minimal performance gain. I do not have the same piece of mind that I would with marine equipment but, I weighed my options and am willing to risk the equipment for the reward of the output.