Scott's 04 21 Stereo upgrades

[chpthril]

Wet Sounds Rev-10 Swivel Clamps, white
Speaker Suitz
Syn-4
3 pair XS-65i
Kicker ZXM-RLC Zone Control

[Bryan]

That amp mounting looks clean! That really needs to be one of my winter projects.. How do you mount them on the side without going through the glass into the bow walk thru? I've also considered building an amp rack to hide the wiring, but again.. How do you usually mount your racks to keep from putting screws either thru the fiberglass on the walk thru, or thru the hull on the outside?

[chpthril]

Brian,

In this model and all those after, Tige glassed in a 1" composite board just for this purpose. Up through 08, it was on the walkway wall, then in 09, the moved it to the outside wall. If you feel around the carpet, you should be able to feel the glassed board as a raised surface.

For an amp wall that allows for a hidden raceway, you can either bond or screw some standoffs to the boat wall to which the amp wall can attach to. Do to the limited size of the locker opening, you would probably need to do a 2 piece wall. If you Tige has the glass in board, you can screw the standoffs. If no glassed in board, then you will need to cut out some carpet and bond the standoffs in with a marine adhesive.

[Bryan]

Great! Thanks! Also, I can't see because the bottom of your pic cut it off, but I can kinda see the d blocks for the power and ground.. I don't see any fuses between amps and that block. Do you suggest running one massive, say 200 amp breaker before the block to send all amp power through, or does each amp need its own fuse? Will a breaker that big allow smaller amps to burn up? Take into account that my sub amp alone calls for a 150 amp fuse....

Just trying to do my homework...

[chpthril]

To start with, there is a main breaker right off the main battery switch on the 1/0ga trunk line. In the locker there, one of those blocks is a 3-way fused block on the silver 1/0 B+ that splits it down to 4ga for each amp. The ground block is non-fused.

If the amp does not have its own onboard fuse, an external fuse close to the amp is a must.
A main form of circuit protection at the source, is a must.
The value of the main circuit protection is a calculation of the amps' potential draw and capacity of the main trunk cable. Same for the near amp fuses. Take into account the draw of the amp and the capacity of the branch line.

[Bryan]

So a guy should run both? I thought it was an either/or type of thing.. My kicker 1200.1 calls for a 150 amp fuse, my ht4 for the towers calls for a 50 amp, and im gonna need another ht4 or a Kicker 400.2 from you for my in boats, and it calls for a 60 amp I believe. Does this mean I'm gonna need a 250-300 amp breaker to be able to handle all that at once? Do the d blocks accomadate different size fuses to protect the smaller amps, or do I use just straight d blocks then in line fuses of the correct size for each separate amp? Ive never used d blocks before...

[chpthril]

Realistically, we could do as low as a 180-200 for the main. These amps will never hit their peak draw and certainly not all at the same time. The fused blocks i use accommodate MANL fuses. I can get those anywhere from 25A up to 150A. So no worries there.

[Bryan]

Ok... Guess I need to stop worrying about it and just pull the trigger

[Badfish67]

Mike, I cant thank you enough for the great job!!! Just to let everyone know, I drove about 3.5hrs each way to bring my boat to Mike so he could do all this work. His attention to detail and prices are unbeatable. If your thinking about having any audio work done, look no further than Mikes Liquid Audio!!!

[chpthril]

Thank you for the kind words. Im honored to have the opportunity to do the system.