2011 RZ4 wiring

[kmkramer71]

I finally got some time on the water yesterday with my new purchase. I was trying to figure out the stereo and why the towers were not working. The RCA inputs to the SYN2 were not connected. It seems like I'd want the sub on the SYN2.

I'm curious what the recommended wiring is suppose to be? How can I tell what tower speaker model I have also?

Thanks.

[WakerideN]

pics would be best for the model, if its stock.. they would have been pro80 or pro60 wetsounds. have to look at how mine is wired to answer the syn2 or 4 sub question... think mine is on the 2.

[carcrz]

I put my Rev10s on the Syn2 & left my sub & surround on the Syn6.


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[chpthril]

I finally got some time on the water yesterday with my new purchase. I was trying to figure out the stereo and why the towers were not working. The RCA inputs to the SYN2 were not connected. It seems like I'd want the sub on the SYN2.

I'm curious what the recommended wiring is suppose to be? How can I tell what tower speaker model I have also?

Thanks.

Lets presume your boat is 100% OEM factory installed:

The Syn-2 would be the OEM tower amp
The tower speakers would be connected to the Syn-2, so disconnected RCA would result in no output.
The OEM Syn-6, which the sub is connected to, has the potential of delivering 600W rms to a 4 ohm woofer, the Syn-2 has the potential of delivering 750W rms to a 4 ohm woofer. No audible difference, so no real advantage making a change here
Theres a good chance your 2011 came with a 4 ohm dvc xs-10fa. So wired in parallel, it = 2 ohm. Wired to chnl 5 or 6 of the Syn-6, it will receive 300W rms. In this configuration, you cannot bridge the woofer on the Syn-2, so again no advantage making any change here.
Whats the OD of the tower speaker grill?

The OEM setup would have been: 3 pair wet sounds XS-650 in-boats and xs-10fa 10" sub all on a Syn-6 6 chnl amp. Syn-2 would be the tower amp and in 2011, I think Pro-60 speakers was the only OEM option.

[kmkramer71]

pics of wiring

pics of the output wiring. looks wrong to me based on the diagrams in the manual

syn6.jpgsyn2.jpg

[chpthril]

The only thing I can possibly see, is that there is no wire terminated to the chnl-5 (+) for a sub.

[kmkramer71]

is that wire size ok for 600w potential?

[chpthril]

It should be 12ga and fine if you decide to upgrade the sub

[kmkramer71]

I remove all the connections to channel 4 output, found the correct leads for the speakers. both paths read 2.1ohms. connected subwoofer across channel 5/6 as shown in the manual. no output to sub. i then tried connecting in stereo mode to each channel (5/6) with still no output. it seems as though I have a bad ch 5/6 output the sub does work connected as shown in the original pictures.

[chpthril]

Sorry for the late replay, been in vegas/grand canyon since the 16th.

Can you get and post a pic of the other end of the Syn-6 that shows the settings and RCA's?

On chnl 4, there should be 2 in-boat speakers wired together, so a reading of 2.1 ohm would be normal.

The subwoofer on your model would likely be a 4 ohm dual coil woofer. It will state this on the sticker so open the front locker and see the back of the woofer. it will also have two sets of wire terminals, as in two + and two - terminals. This would also show about 2 ohm on a meter, so thats expected. The trick is to absolutely determine which wire pair (green & black and gray & black) are for the in-boats and which is for the woofer. Use a 9V battery to do this by simply holding a black to the - post of the battery and tickling the gray of green to the + post of the battery and the speaker(s) will crackle. Dont hold the wire, just tickle it. Now you know which pair go together and which speaker(s) they go to.

Wire the in-boats pair back to the + and - of chnl 4

Next, wire the sub + (likely the gray, could be the green) to chnl 5 + terminal and the sub - black to the - terminal for chnl 5.

If the sub doesnt work, move them to chnl 6.

if the sub still doesnt, this is where I need to see the settings and rca's.

You can also pull the in-boats out of chnl 4 and wire the sub leads to chnl 4 as a test. The sub wont make any bass, but it should play some vocals and mid-bass instruments. This at least gets us on the right path.

[kmkramer71]

no problem. I'll get you a picture of the settings. I do know there are no inboats wired together (at least at the AMP)

CH1 - Yellow
CH2 - Brown
CH3 - Blue
CH4 - Green
Gray is labelled subwoofer on the wire shielding

Thanks.

[chpthril]

If its an OEM factory system, the mid and aft port side would be wired together on chnl 3 and the mid and aft starboard speakers would be wired together. The port mid would run to the aft port and connect there, then home to the amp. The aft stbd would run forward to the mid (under helm) stbd and connect there then home to the amp around the bow.

Again, just going under the presumption that this is 100% EOM. If it was done at the dealer level and they mimicked the factory install, it may not be 100% as the factory did it.

[kmkramer71]

syn6 settings

syn6-settings.jpg

I am able to get some bass now but I have to crank volume to like 25 to hear any bass from the sub. The chnl 5-6 gain does not seem to do anything useful.

[chpthril]

25 on the volume dial is only about 75% volume level, that in of itself, does not bother as the sub's level will be dependent upon head-unit volum same as the other speakers.

Look for a PM in about 20 minutes with some setting and tuning tips. You will need to download the Syn-6 manual https://wetsounds.com/media/products...ser_Manual.pdf