2007 22ve stereo upgrade

[shelbee.hutchens]

My husband and I just recently purchased a 2007 22ve and I am working on upgrading the stereo. It came originally with a Clarion CMD4A head unit, 4 KM620.2 interior speakers, 2 sets of 2, 6" infinity tower speakers (couldn't tell ya the model # due to the fact that I can't get the stinking things out of the enclosure to see the back) and a kicker DX 125.2 amp. Now, what I've done so far is I've purchased a WS-420BT equalizer along with the bluetooth volume control and an XS-12 sub. I have a kicker 700.5, 5 chanel amp I planned to use. From what I understand the WS-420 will eliminate the need for the Clarion head unit all together. I'm not quite sure about how to run the amps or wire them for that matter. I've set-up several stereo systems in my late model chevy Blazer but this boat intimidates me a bit. The dealership installed a new interstate deep cycle marine/rv battery SRM-29 with 675 CCA. Today I got another interstate marine 24M-XDH with 800CCA to run parallel on a perko switch. A friend of mine told me that it may be less of a pain to run the system through the perko switch rather than the ignition due to the fact that when you turn the key from run to acc the WS-420 will loose power in the off position between run and acc causing you to have to sync with Bluetooth again. He said it wasn't too bad, just more of an inconvenience. I'm just really needing some insight and advise on if what I have will work and how to go about wiring and setting it up correctly. If you have time I would greatly appreciate your input. Thank you so much!

Very truly yours,
Shelbee Carlton

I'm so stinking nervous!

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[chpthril]

Shelbee,

Congrats on the 07 22ve and welcome to the tige group.

Lets start with the WS-420BT and how its going to interface with the amps and head-unit. Yes, the 420BT can eliminate the need for a traditional head-unit, but in your case, I would still use it, although in a limited capacity. By simply connecting the head-units purple non-face RCA to the 420BT's main input, you would be able to still play a CD (in know, whats that?) if one chose to, or listen to AM/FM if you wanted to catch the a ball game or the race. So the head-unit can still have some value, even though most of out music is stored on some sort of MP file device or streaming. The other benefit of retaining the head-unit is its ability to cleanly turn on and off the 420 and amps, without any turn/off thump.

Connecting the 420 to the amps is fairly straight forward. You will need 3 pairs of RCAs, about 17' long. One will exit the "in-boat" output and go to the in-boat amp input, one will exit the "Sub" outputs and go to the sub amp inputs and last is the "Tower" outputs to the tower amp in-puts. i like to use a 3 conductor cable for the 420's B+, GND and turn-on and run those over to the amps.

About the sub and amp pairing. The XS-12 is an awesome woofer that performs well in both a sealed or ported enclosure. The old Kicker 700.5 was a solid hybrid amp for an in-boat and sub setup. Did you get the 2 or 4 ohm configuration? You really need the 2 ohm sub in order to milk the 700.5's amp chnl of all its available 420W rms.

Battery, switch and how its all set up: If you boat has an actual "perko" brand switch, then a previous owner has either altered the OEM dual battery EIDB setup or the boat was not equipped with the EIDB and they did their own dual bank setup. Knowing exactly what there is going to have a huge impact on what is the most ideal way to wire up the amp, batteries and any accessories. If you contact Tige and give them the HID, they can tell what options the boat came with and specifically if it was ordered with the EIDB. Even then, you would still need to get back there and trace out the main cables and see how its wired and if the original isolator is still in play.

I would definitely take the ign key switch out of the loop in regards to the stereo, whether you retain the head-unit or not. I like to have it on its own rocker switch.

Good choice with the group-29 as the house bank and group-24 as the main cranking.

[shelbee.hutchens]

I bought the XS-12 directly from Wet Sounds and it did not give me a choice between 2 ohm or 4 ohm so I'm not 100% sure which I will be receiving. I suppose i can download the manual and read through it. Another question, should I still use the amp that came in the boat and connect it to the in-boat speakers, the run the tower and sub off the 700.5? If I use both amps, do I run them both from the B+ independently?

On to the battery set-up. I bought the perko switch yesterday because I got the additional battery and wanted to have the option to run 1, 2, or both. As far as I know the boat did not have an OEM dual set-up. I looked in the back compartment and there is a red switch that I believe is for on or off only. Also, don't want to sound stupid, but I dont know what an isolator is or where it could potentially be.
Dang boats and diesels! This 2 battery business is putting a wrinkle in my brain!

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[chpthril]

You are likely going to get the 4 ohm. DOesnt look like their online store is updated yet to reflect the 2 ohm offering. Has it shipped? If not, call them ASAP and have them double check.

I would rather use the 700.5 for the in-boats and sub and then another amp for the tower. Reason being is because subs and towers are the hardest worked zones. Having them on different amps means less work far said amp.

If one amp is already installed and working, its easy to just run a new B+ and B- for the new amp. But if you wanted to make a cleaner, less cluttered install, you can run a single large trunk line for both amp, then split them at the amps through a distribution block setup.

Sounds like the boat did not have the EIDB setup with the diode isolator. If you pull the access panel from the back wall of the port aft locker and see 2 batteries, you know it has the EIDB. If you see one battery and pile of dangling cables, you know it has the EIDB minus the missing battery. If the boat just came with the single battery option, then wiring in the dual bank switch is much more straight forward.

[shelbee.hutchens]

I just called them and they said that the 2 ohm is only offered in the 10" not the 12". The guy on the phone said something about bridging the amp I've got to make it work better... I have no idea what that entails.

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[chpthril]

Its a 5 chnl amp with a single sub chnl so nothing there to bridge. Sorry, but no way to get any more than 210W out of the amp for that sub.

[shelbee.hutchens]

Well crap! I'm going to have to do something about that!

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