DX700 Popping Fuses...

[Bryan]

Kicker dx700 pops the the three 30 amp fuses on the side every time I turn the power on.. I've checked all wiring with a meter and it all seems good. No shorts or breaks anywhere leaded to the amp. Haven't checked sub wires inside box, but it was all fine and working yesterday. Pulled out the crossover and everything on that circuit board looks fine. Could it be something inside the amp? Is there a way to test for that? Can I somehow test wires inside box without having to pull sub out? I'm not sure what could go wrong in there, but I should probly eliminate it as a cause...

[chpthril]

Usually when an amp is blowing its internal fuses, there is a major fault inside the amp. Did you encounter any rain or lake water? An out of limits sub would certainly put the amp in protect mode, but unlikely cause it to blow those fuses. A simple test is to just pull the driver's leads from the amp, replace the fuses and power the amp back up. An ohm meter will allow you to test the subs nominal impedance without removing the sub.

[Bryan]

Yes... Torrential downpour and everything was soaked... It started doing this the next time I fired it up.. I was afraid of the water so I took extra time to dry everything... Guess I didn't do a good enough job.. My local kicker dealer is an awesome guy that has been a family friend for a long time.. He's rebuilt this amp for me before when it quit working so I guess he's gonna get another call Monday... Thanks for the info mike... Still waiting for a reply to my PM about the LED rings and spool and controller.... Have a good day sir

[chpthril]

OK, dont power it up again. Take it out, open it up and dry it out ASAP. Compressed air is best over just air drying. Theres a chance its not toast just humid.

[Bryan]

Awesome.. I'll try it out, thanks

[Bryan]

Well here's what I've got... Took it apart and everything was dry as a bone. No noticable burnt spots in the board where it might have arced or something... Other than that I have no idea what to look for here... Any ideas or just take it to the shop?

[Bryan]

Well... Put it back together and powered it up without speaker connected to see what happened. Immediately popped the 3 fuses and started smoking.. Took it apart again and I find this burnt spot in the corner... Anybody know if this is repairable?

[chpthril]

Thats rough when you heat up the PCB like that. Given the generation of that DX model, its a tough call whether its cost effective to repair or not. A brand new CX600.1 is $250 and a DXA 1000.1 is $340 MAP. Just an example for perspective.

[Bryan]

So... Next question I guess, which ties into my free air sub thread.. I'm thinking I'm pretty interested in a wet sounds xs-10. Is there an amp you would suggest that would push one of those best? Is the 2 ohm version gonna be louder than the 4 ohm version? This boat came with a pair of rev 8 and a wet sounds amp pushing them. Pretty sure it's an older model ht4 because it's all silver and has the same settings and control layout on the end, but no logo on the front, just a blue light. Could I maybe move it over to push my four boat coaxials and get a new amp to power the sub and towers? Or leave it to towers and get something new for boats and sub?

[chpthril]

So... Next question I guess, which ties into my free air sub thread.. I'm thinking I'm pretty interested in a wet sounds xs-10. Is there an amp you would suggest that would push one of those best?

First thing is matching up subs power handling with the right amp. For the Wet Sounds 10FA, I like 400W rms.

Is the 2 ohm version gonna be louder than the 4 ohm version?

Hope. The amp's nominal impedance is about flexability in choosing an amp and also when running more than one amp.

This boat came with a pair of rev 8 and a wet sounds amp pushing them. Pretty sure it's an older model ht4 because it's all silver and has the same settings and control layout on the end, but no logo on the front, just a blue light. Could I maybe move it over to push my four boat coaxials and get a new amp to power the sub and towers?

Theres only one version of the HT series, so its only about 2 seasons old maybe.

I would leave the HT-4 for the towers and get a 5 or 6 chnl for the in-boats and sub. The Kicker KXM800.5 would give you 400w rms to the 2 ohm 10FA.

Have you considered building a small sealed enclosure and stepping up to a 12" sub? Surface are is the easiest way to increase output.

[Bryan]

Well, I have this sub (http://www.imagedynamicsusa.net/spec...DMAX12D4V4.pdf) wired down to 2 ohm that I have in a ported box built to the manuals specs, and have been pushing it with that kicker dx700 because it's what I had on hand when I got the sub.. Underpowered I'm guessing since this amp was rated @ 700x1 @ 2 ohm, but it was still very loud. I had it pushed up under my steering wheel in the boat, which killed leg room, but sounded very good. Now, with the amp kicking the bucket I'm re-thinking the whole thing. If I go sealed to save space it probly won't be as deep but hits harder right? Then I'm still gonna need an amp, and this thing is rated @ 1000 rms.. I don't even know where to start... Everything was fine and then it rained on the way to the lake Friday and killed my system...

[Truekaotik]

How much work do you want to do?
Simple is just replace the amp with the KXM12001...

Next would be like Mike suggest and go new enclosure and 12"...

[Bryan]

A brand new CX600.1 is $250 and a DXA 1000.1 is $340 MAP.

So I was always told to expect to pay $1.00/watt for a good amplifier.. How are KICKER prices so much cheaper than they used to be? Has their quality gone down or just their cost for amp components? I realize they have the Q series and they appear to be pricey and smartphone compatible and all that good stuff, but are the CX and DX lines still quality, or are they KICKER's attempt at selling to the walmart crowd? What about their marine KX series? I notice you didn't mention them, but like trukaotik said, the KX1200.1 seems to be about right. Do you guys think the claimed 1200 rms at 2 ohm would be too much for my 1000 rms sub?

[chpthril]

The CX and DXA lines are their budget friendly lines. I posted those as models comparable in power to your old 700.1. Good price point amps that will deliver their rated wattage. The KX and KXM (marine) are a step up in all aspects of internal components and range of tuning settings. The SQ is the upper end. The 1200.1 would not be too much for a 1000W rms sub by any means. That 1200.1 is measured @ 14.5V, so with engine off, the wattage would be a little less. I have every confidence in Kicker and no hesitation recommending and using in house.
2015 Malibu 23 LSV: 5 KXM amps, 5 pair of KM8 and 1 pair of KM65 LED coaxial and two KM10L woofers.



Before getting an amp, I would decide if you are going to keep that woofer or go another direction, like IB or other. Its much easier to match an amp to a woofer then match a woofer to an amp.

[Truekaotik]

Correct on the DX and CX.... The KXM is the way to go for your current sub staying with Kicker...