2014 Z3 Stereo problems *HELP!*

[e4nash]

I have a 2014 Tige Z3 with 40 hours and am having stereo problems. I have the Tower of Power system with Rev10s, Syn 6 and a Syn2. When I turn the radio on all we can here is static and distorted music. If you turn the volume past level one the music becomes EXTREMELY distorted, almost like it is getting TOO much power. Sometimes powering off the head unit like seriously 50 times will correct it. This problem started at the end of last season with the distorted music coming out of only 2 speakers. Troubleshooting steps I have performed so far:

Power off and power back on head unit \ no change
Disconnect and reconnect RCA cables at amp \ no change
Swap RCA cables at amp \ no change
Disconnect and reconnect wire harness from the back of the Clarion CMD 6 \ No change
Disconnect all RCAs from amp and turn radio on and all you hear is very loud static as if you are listening to an FM radio station that doesn't come in at all.

At first I believed the problem was with the head unit. Today I just started cleaning it up and getting it ready for this season and now in addition to the distorted music there is A LOT of static that plays CONSTANTLY across ALL inputs. I have disconnected the RCAs from both amps and static will still play through the speakers. NO speaker plays normally. The static goes through every speaker. However when the amps are connected the front left and right rear will still play the distorted music. Has anyone else had or heard of this issue? Am I right in thinking this is a head unit problem or since static is now heard when the RCAs are disconnected from the amp is there a problem with the Amps? It seems highly unlikely to me that both amps would fail at the same time.

Thanks in advance

-Erik

[2013Z3]

I know what you are talking about. My 2013 does it to. The issue popped up at the very beginning of the season after taking the boat out of storage. With fully charged batteries, I would put the stereo on (usually ipod) and hear the static. After messing around with the amps I figured if you push in the Channel 3-4 source button on the Syn 6 and then push it again the noise would stop. There is obviously something wrong with the input circuitry on the Syn6 related to that button. When the noise is happening, push it in and then push it again and the noise should go away. The funny thing about last year, is after the first two or three times it did it, it never did it again the rest of the season and I forgot about it until it happened again this year. Probably need to get the amp swapped under warranty but you have to be able to reproduce the noise for the dealer, and you know how that goes! ;-)

[e4nash]

Well, of course with my luck it can't be that easy. I just tried your suggestion and that didn't help. Any other ideas?

[2013Z3]

Are you sure your batteries are fully charged? I believe they should be showing about 12.7 volts at the battery and slightly less at the amps themselves. Do you have noise with engine off and on?

[e4nash]

Batteries show 13.6 noise is with engine on and off

[chpthril]

* Noise is omitting from all speakers yes or no?

* noise is present regardless of tuner, CD, AUX, USB, SAT, etc?

* white noise similar to root noise even when RCA disconnected from head-unit? What about pulled from amps?

* battery voltage at the amps' power cable terminals?

[e4nash]

Static (white noise) is coming from ALL speakers

Static is present regardless of input source. Static is present even with RCA cables disconnected from the amp. I have not yet pulled from head-unit. Will try that later. I am on the water now.

Update: Now that we are on the water the static is gone (so maybe was attributed to low voltage) but I still have the distorting sound from front left speaker as described above. Other speakers are VERY faint but front left is loud and distorted.

[Truekaotik]

Honestly, slap the syn6... If it changes its internal...

[chpthril]

really leaning toward a voltage issue. Its in all the speakers and is now all but gone with the engine running. With the single speaker distortion, I would start by swapping 2 speakers and see if the distortion stays with the wiring or moves with the speaker.

[e4nash]

So, while we were on the water the distortion issue was happening and apparently the button that I thought was the same one 2013Z3 suggested may not actually have been the right one I was pushing the channel 3-4 stereo bridge button. I found that there seems to be a connection problem with the input for the sub level control. I'm not sure really how to describe it other than saying if you mess with the RJ11 connector you could hear it being messed with. But while feeling around I found the Channel 3-4 input button below the sub level control and like 2013Z3 suggested pushing that in and then out again seemed to fix it for a little while. The distortion happened again and I pushed the button in and out again and everything was fine. I guess the problem is with the amp so I guess I will have it replaced under warranty...Very strange problem.

Can someone tell me the way the buttons should be configured for best results? I think right now I have:

From Left to Right

Ch 3-4: Out (Direct)
Ch 5-6: in (from 1-2)
Ch 1-2: out (stereo)
Ch 3-4: out (stereo)



ImageUploadedByTapatalk1431056610.099895.jpg

[chpthril]

Ch 3-4: Out (Direct)
Ch 5-6: in (from 1-2)

These only determine from which of the 3 RCA inputs, do the corresponding chnls get its signal. The amp can drive all chnls with only a single set of RCA plugged in, 2 sets plugged in or 3. So is all the in-boats and sub are playing, they are set correctly

Ch 1-2: out (stereo)
Ch 3-4: out (stereo)

When running desecrate chnls, as in not bridged, they need to be in out/stereo position.


A setting button/knob can get "dirty" and moving cleans the contacts.

[Truekaotik]

Do you have all 6 RCAs being used?
If so 3-4 should be put to direct, if only 1-2 RCA is being used it needs to be pushed to 1-2... Same for sub RCAs.. Chnl 1-2 and 3-4 button needs to be stereo period. Frequency needs to be 100-120 Hz. Hi pass on channels 1-4... Low pass 5-6, 80 hz... Unplug the LC control for diagnosis...

[Truekaotik]

I also would check voltage at the amp terminal, you may not be getting a solid connection to ground or a faulty fuse holder could be the culprit if the batteries are fresh.... Sometimes what happens here is the amplifier will stil kick on and power up using the remote wire, but when it receives a signal where it needs Amperage it shows its weakness...

[e4nash]

Only two sets of RCAs are going to the Syn6 only Channels 1-2 and 3-4 RCAs are being used. This is the way it was wired from the factory.

I really need to get a Syn4 and use that for the Rev10s and use the Syn2 for the sub but this boat is for sale so I don't think I will be performing any modifications to it unless we end up keeping it.

[Frosty_Power]

Old Post but same thing was happening to me all the time. Had to hit the channel button to fix it and seemed to reset everything. Took amps apart this winter and cleaned it all with Dioxit and it hasn't happened again since. I have a 13 Z1 and think water was dripping on the amps over time and corroded the contacts.