2015 RZR subwoofer

[Bryan]

Cool.. I haven't thought of this till now, but how tight of a seal would that access door need to turn that whole locker into a sealed or ported enclosure? I mean it's already got a latch and a rubber seal to make it waterproof. There are a couple of holes in the top under the dash that wires run through, but expanding foam could cure that.. Could a guy turn that whole locker into an enclosure? Mount a sub or two in the helm wall? Or maybe a really good sub and a couple port tubes or something.. Depending on actual measured space of course.. Is that something that is even possible?

[chpthril]

It will never be able to be a ported enclosure. it will never be able to be sealed as air tight as a true acoustic suspension enclosure needs to be. What is does offer us, is the single most important thing we need to even consider an IB, it has 100% woofer front to rear isolation. The only issue with the door, it rattles. A little foam gasket in the jam should fix that. Any slight leaks are so removed from the woofer that they will not matter much. If you do get some noticeable leaks, isolate them and address as needed. I would only worry about a leak that huffs or weezes.

[Bryan]

Hmmm..... To be continued in the future. Sorry for derailing your thread kerry2

[kerry2]

So this has taken me a lot longer to get all the parts and find the time but I finally have most of the install complete. Thank you to Chpthril for all of the help, direction and suggestions!!

Tower - I have rewired the tower with 12 gauge, four conductor and connected it to my four new Wet Sounds Rev10's and the SD2 amp.

In Boats - I have my four in boats connected to my existing Wet Sounds HT-6, I haven't added a third pair yet but I would still like to, they are the factory Wet Sounds XS-650

Subs - I already had one Wet Sounds Xs10-FA 4OHM sub so I thought that I would add a second to it and I am powering them both with a Kicker KX800.1
I wired them together to get a 2OHM impedance and even though the amp has connections for two pair I only have one pair connected to it since the subs are wired together and then just one pair of wire runs back to the amp. Is this setup going to get the full 800 Watts to the subs?

I have 2/0 wiring running from the house battery to my new distribution panel in the ski locker Storage area where the amps are located and from the distribution panel to each amp I have run 4AWG. I don't expect any issues but I haven't powered anything up yet since doing the changes.
I have checked the impedance of the two individual pair of tower speakers and the pair of subs and they are all art 2OHMs as I had configured and expected.

I have a few questions....

1) I have only two pair of RCA outputs from my Polk head unit and I have the three amps, is it best to just split off of one of the pair and if so does it matter which one (Front or rear)? Or, is there a better way of doing this?

2) I was running my single sub from my HT-6 but now that the two subs are running off of the new kicker amp can I use that channel for a third pair of in boats?

3) I was a little reluctant to go with three amps but Chpthril was right about everything else so I decided I should listen this time and do it right, even if that meant not buying the third amp from Wet Sounds. The question is, will my one house battery be enough with the extra speakers and amps? The battery that I have is a 12V Trojan T-105, it was pretty good with my original setup but this seems like I will be using a lot more power. I don't have a lot of space where the factory house battery is located so I would have to put the second in the ski locker where the amps are...i don't think I would have a problem with charging since I have the 2/0 wiring in place. I would match it to the existing house battery with another Trojan T-105.

4) Based on my description above, does the sub and kicker install sound right?

Once I have all of the final little bits of the install complete I can move on to the tuning stage, I'm pretty excited to hear what it all sounds like but I want to make sure that I have every installed correctly first.

[chpthril]

How you have the woofers wired in parallel at the woofer with a single 2-con to the amp is fine. Just note though, on a mono amp that has 2 sets of speaker terminals, they are in parallel in side the amp. Having two sets of terminals is common on moo amps. Makes running multiple speaker easier as you arent stacking too many wires on a single terminal. SO yes, you have a 2 ohm load at the amp, netting you 800W rms

I would take the head unit REAR to the tower amp. Take the FRONT to sub amp INPUT. From the sub amp OUTPUT, go to the chnl 1 and 2 INPUTS of the HT-6.

Yes, just need to set and tune those vacant chnls for full range speakers when you are ready to wire them up

This really depends on how long you want to play with the engine off. Engine running, one battery is more than enough.

[BCRider]

Chpthril: I know it all comes back to set up and available amps/channels etc but is it over all beneficial to have the subs set up as noted above to output 2 Ohm or to wire them in Series/Parallel to output 4 Ohms again? I did the later as my subs are sharing on my Syn 6.

[BCRider]

I'm sure it depends on your boat but I was also able to get the 2-10FA's level. I see some people had to offset the second one to fit. Just noting this for any future person searching these threads.

[chpthril]

BCR,

Your woofers were the original generation DVC and bridging across 2 chnl. Kerry i believe is working with the newer SVC 4 ohm and wiring to a mono. So, both will be entirely different wiring schemes. But the end goal is to have a proper impedance load at the amp and milk the available wattage.

[kerry2]

BCR,

Your woofers were the original generation DVC and bridging across 2 chnl. Kerry i believe is working with the newer SVC 4 ohm and wiring to a mono. So, both will be entirely different wiring schemes. But the end goal is to have a proper impedance load at the amp and milk the available wattage.

That is correct, my subs are definitely Single Voice Channel....I ran a 12GA wire between the POS and NEG of both subs to connect them and then connected to the POS and NEG of one sub back to my amp and that gives me the 2 OHM impedance.

I will take a look at my Kicker amp tonight and see where I can attach my HT-6 to the amp output....

Thanks again!

[chpthril]

The KX800.1 has 2 pair of RCAs. one is the input from the front out and the other an output, basically as pass-through.

[kerry2]

The KX800.1 has 2 pair of RCAs. one is the input from the front out and the other an output, basically as pass-through.

Ahhh, I see it now....that makes sense....i am getting closer....might even get it powered up this weekend

[kerry2]

I'm finally out on the lake and it all sounds pretty good. I'm having a bit of trouble figuring out the ht6 though. I have my inputs for channels 1 and 2 from my kicker sub amp but I'm not getting hardly any volume from my inboats and only on two speakers. If I put the inputs on channels three and four then the other two speakers work but only those two.....grrr....I'm not sure how to setup the ht6....??
Can anyone help with this?

[chpthril]

Does the head unit have an open set of RCA outputs that could be dedicated directly to the HT-6 1/2 inputs? If so, that might be better than the pass through's from the woofer amp.

As to getting sound from only 2 speakers of the HT-6, you need to change the position of the "INPUT" and "INPUT 5/6" buttons.