2015 RZR subwoofer

[Bobert]

Pretty sure for 1 pair of Rev10's on an SD2 amp you would want to run it 1 speaker to each channel. As each channel is rated at 400rms @ 4 ohms. If you were to say get the more affordable syn4 then yes you would want to bridge a rev10 to ch 1 and 2 and a rev10 to channel 3 and 4.

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[chpthril]

So, after a season on the water I have found that I should have done what Chpthril had originally suggested.
I was kinda happy with the performance of what I had but found that I really wanted more.

I have just taken delivery of two pair of Rev 10's and omg, those things are huge, the swivel mount is also very nice. I have a Wetsounds SD2 amp on order to drive the four Rev 10's.

I think that I can keep my HT-6 for my four in boats (XS-650) and also add another pair.

What I need help with now is figuring out what sub to add and how to power it, I would ideally like to only have two amps so if there is something that would power the 6 in boats and also a 12" sub that would be ideal.

I am also not 100% sure how to wire the four Rev10's into a two channel amp, do I run one pair into channel one, both positives together and both negatives together and then the same for channel two. I am thinking that this would change the speakers from 4 ohm to 2 ohm??

I guess the moral of the story is do it right the first time, the thing is that it sounded amazing in my garage but once out on the open water things were way different....I wasn't sure I wanted to spend the money but now find that I have to spend even more to get what I want....I am pretty sure that the Rev 10's will do the trick :-)

Ok, lets make sure we have a complete inventory or the gear we have to work with, then we can lay out some options that may be able to re-purpose some of whats invested in already.

2 pair Rev-10 and SD-2? Ok, lets start with wiring them;

* you will wire one pair's + and - wires together and then connect them to one chnl. This has the amp "seeing" a 2 ohm load. Do the same for the other pair on the 2nd amp chnl. At 2 ohm load per chnl, the amps output is 620W rms per chnl. Thats a net wattage of 310W rms to each speaker. I would suggest either a 14ga 2-conductor to each pod, so thats 4 2-conductor leads up the tower, or a single 12ga 4-conductor that will split off in the tower to all 4 pods. Unfortunately, factory wiring is a pair of 16 ga speaker wires.

HT-6 you have already?

3rd pair of in-boats for sure?

Still have the JL 200.2?

Did you get a 10FA or still looking to do a sub install from scratch?

[kerry2]

Alright, that sounds like I thought about the wiring connections....I didn't realize that the factory wire wasn't suitable though....I did also confirm that the factory wiring I have is 16 gauge....that kinda sucks.

So I'm thinking that the single 12 gauge four conductor would be the easiest to pull through and I guess that I'll just be connecting the positives together for each pair right at the speakers and then the negatives as well. Is there anything that I need to know about pulling the new wire through the tower and how many feet I'll need....I'm thinking 25-30 feet or so?
Once that's in, the tower and SD2 should be complete.

I do plan on doing the third pair of in boats for sure, I want to do it right this time and not be left wishing I had more.

I was running my Samson tower speakers off of the Kicker KXM400.4 amp but I would like to sell that with my speakers to recover a bit of my investment. I don't have the JL amp anymore, I sold that when I bought the HT-6 and the Kicker amp.

I did get a 10XS-FA and it's installed under the helm, unfortunately when I installed it I didn't realize that it was supposed to be on the left side under the helm....I saw the smaller cutout on the right and enlarged the 6.5" hole to accommodate the 10" sub....it doesn't sound that great...maybe due to where it's installed and maybe due to the power it's getting. I either need to install a new sub in a new location and keep this one where it is or find a way to cover the hole and recarpet it. I know I could easily fill the hole if I could get the same colour carpet....I would like to go with a 12" sub, I'm pretty sure the 10" won't hit hard enough, unless I could maybe run a second 10" beside the one I already have?? I would still like to stay at two amps, even if I have to sell the HT-6 and get something different.....unless you think I should have a dedicated sub amp.....I'm open to your suggestions and advice.


I sure appreciate the help you give Chpthril, hopefully others will also benefit from my journey.

[chpthril]

Yes, a single 12/4 is going to be the easiest to fish through the tower. The only real trick is passing through the center of the tower where the light/tow point is.

Yes, sell the KXM400.4 but retain the HT-6 for the in-boats.

IMO, I would plan on a 3 amp setup. The cost of a 600W range mono sub amp, is going to about the same as the cost difference between selling a used HT-6 and picking up another amp like the Arc Xdi1200.6. You are going to be hard pressed to find an amp thats going to offer the wattage to 6 speakers like the HT-6 will, yet yield the subwoofer wattage to make this upgrade worthwhile. The Arc comes very close at an exceptional price, and a Wet Sounds SD-6 would be the optimal choice. The only real drawback to 3 amps over 2, is realestate and the extra cabling.

Two 10's would actually have more output then a single 12, due to surface area. Either way, you are out of amp chnls that could drive the setup, so 3 amp is inevitable. If your current 10fa is a 4 ohm, then you could get a 2nd 4 ohm and then use the new HTX-1 or a Kicker KX800.1. Which ever way you choose, you are still looking at some modification under the helm, to do it right. Where you cut the hole for the current sub, is going to get cut out and covered up anyway.

[Bobert]

hey guys, I just brought home a 2015 RZR....my first Tigé....and I want to add a sub. I see that there is a partial cutout under the helm (in front of the drivers feet), there are two wires that are hanging into the same spot....there is a grey and a black wire. I have tried to trace them but I am having some problems figuring out where they go...I thought that I would have found the other ends of the two wires hanging loose in the passenger side compartment where the head unit and tower speaker amp is located but I can't see them there....

Question #1 - what size sub can I put in this space?

Question #2 - are these the prewires for the sub and do you know where the other ends of the wires come out?

Thanks for any help......

If you haven't figured it out just yet, the black and gray wires lead to a harness clip inside the loom. It's the same harness clip that the stock head unit gets wired into. The clip is rather large and maybe close to the size of the palm of your hand. The wires leading into the clip (coming from the bow) should come out to the other side (towards the aft and backside of the headunit) but be cut short than everything else. Mine are maybe 6" long. Take some speaker wire and crimp to these and run the speaker wire to the channel on the amp that you intend to use for your subwoofer.

I had to pull the loom off and remove a few zip ties to find it. I can get a photo if necessary. My wiring hasn't been completed just yet.

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[kerry2]

Hi bobert, thank you....i did find that wire, it wasn't easy but after a lot of searching I did locate it.

Chpthril, thank you for the additional info....i will get some four conductor 12 gauge and get working on the tower setup.

I think that the HTX-1 would be doable, I think that I will keep everything WetSounds moving forward. Can you elaborate a bit more on what you would suggest for the subs in the helm Location? Would I need to pull new wire for the subs too, especially if I have two subs? The sub I have is 4 Ohm.

[chpthril]

Keeping within the Wet Sounds line of amps, the Syn-6 or SD-6 are going to be the only two amps that would drive 3 pair of inboats and offer more sub wattage than what the HT-6's 300W.

Keeping within the Wet Sounds speaker line, the XS-12 is going to be the 12" woofer option, but you will need to go with the HTX-2 amp (if you go the 3-amp route). Or if you want to rock the twin XS-10fa, then the HTX-1 is the way to go amp wise.

I think the boat is wired with 12ga for the gray and black sub leads. if so, no new or additional wire for either of the sub/amp options discussed.

[Bryan]

I get the "two 10 inch subs offer more surface space than one 12 inch" argument.. Logically it makes sense. But, can two free air 300w rms 10" subs really outperform one sealed or ported 12" 500w rms sub? I assume your gonna push these with more than the rms number... But have FA subs really come that far? I haven't listened to one in a long time, but I for sure don't remember being impressed with free air installations..

I know the one that came in the helm of my boat left tons to be desired, it also wasn't wet sounds though...

[chpthril]

I know the one that came in the helm of my boat left tons to be desired, it also wasn't wet sounds though...

It was likely NOT a true IB woofer, especially if it was not a Wet Sounds or JL. They build a true IB woofer. If it was the OEM, it was a Clarion and was not anywhere close to being ideal for IB. All others will have varying degrees of performance when used in an IB application. Also, tuning an IB is different than tuning a simple sealed or ported enclosure. This and the power to the woofer, will also effect the woofers performance. This can sometimes lead to wrongfully blaming the woofer.

I assume your gonna push these with more than the rms number.

Keeping within the wet sounds line, the proposed amps would deliver 600W rms, so 300W rms net to each woofer. Thats a good solid setup for a pair of 10fa's. if he wanted to venture out of the Wet Sounds line, i like the Kicker KX800.1. That would be anew of 400W to each and thats where I like the 10fa. if one wanted to drive them to their full potential with plenty of amp headroom, then look at something in the 1000W-1200W rms, but tuning would have to be dead on.

But, can two free air 300w rms 10" subs really outperform one sealed 500w rms sub?

You ask a very valid question. The answer is yes, but depending on how narrow or broad you define "perform". Output is all about moving air. Thats done by excursion and surface area. Excursion takes power to control, but surface area just takes more woofers or a larger woofer. We can increase the output by simply going from a 10" to a 12", with no amp change or enclosure change. We simply added more woofer cone to move more air. Same with adding a 2nd 10" woofer, we now have 2X the surface area.

If you notice in my last quote, I edited out "ported". This is for a reason. In general, an IB configuration could be a woofer in a large sealed enclosure like about 3.0 ft3. So its still a fair comparison to talk about 2 10 IB's to a single 12 sealed. But when you compare IB or sealed to ported, its no longer a fair comparison. The port instantly adds output, so it gains the advantage. But, if you compared two 10's in a proper ported enclosure to a single 12 in a proper ported enclose, with both enclosures driven by the same amp wattage, then like before, the advantage still goes to the setup with the greatest surface area.

If kerry2 was starting from scratch, I would likely suggest a single 12 in a ported or sealed enclosure, with amp wattage that I felt would fit his needs. Given that he already has one of the 10fa's and is already facing an amp change or addition, adding a 2nd 10fa is a viable option to explore.

[jrj701]

Here is my IB setup and it hits pretty hard. I am considering some upgrades to include a set of XS 808's in the bow as well as a set in the cabin. I am also considering some type of sub upgrade, but am having a hard time convincing myself to move away from the 2 10's.image.jpg

[Bryan]

Mike... You sir, are impressively knowledgeable..

[Bryan]

A thought... If you add a second IB 10" to the helm wall, is the +/- 3 cubic feet behind it still enough? I know with sealed boxes, double the sub means double the box.

[chpthril]

Yes, the locker space in front of the helm is still plenty for twin 10fa's as its even open to the area behind seat backs and under the seat bottoms.

[Bryan]

Ok... so that works for kerry2's boat. My space behind the helm is sealed from the bow under seat area. There is just an access door from the bow walk thru. I keep a tool box and jumper cables and ballast pump in there.. Double 10's there is probly not an option for people with my type of space..

[chpthril]

Ive never measured that locker on a 22i but im certain its more than large enough. I did a single 10, 2 batteries and Syn-4 in that locker on a 2000 21i. Mounting and wiring the amp, I was half in the locker.