New Stereo in 2010 RZ2

[Vicseek]

So I had a theft this past summer in my boat while she was in storage; they stole both amps, sub, four 6" speakers and tried to jack my head unit. Insurance claim covered all minus the $500 deductible.
Now I'm pimping my ride this winter (ordering parts in Feb), here's the list!

FOUR PAIR Wet Sounds XS-650S RGB
Sinister Series SD6 - 6 Channel Amplifier
Sinister Series SD2 - 2 Channel Amplifier
TWO Wet Sounds XS-10FA- 2 OHM-With RBG LED Ring
Wet Sounds WS-420BT
TWO NEW Interstate Deep Cell Batteries (in addition to the one cranking batt)
Wet Wire RCA2ch 7m & Wet Wire RCA 6ch 7m & 23' of Wet Wire PRIM3 cable
Conductor 22 Gauge RGB Wire - 150ft Spool
TIGE cleats X 2
WS-420SQ Universal Mounting Kit
Control Box for RGB LED Lights

About 6k worth of new toys! Can't wait to start working on it!

[Tulsah]

If you're going with the 420BT, you won't need the universal mounting kit. The BT version has an integrated flange and is intended for flush mounting.

Nice list of toys!

[Vicseek]

Good catch! That's exactly what I want to do with it, mount it flush in the dash, left side of steering wheel.

[JLG]

I take it the towers weren't stolen or what are you doing for sound there? Looks like you will have a nice setup for your interior speakers. Can't go wrong with all the WS products your buying. Have you considered jumping up to a XXX in a ported box under the helm versus the 2 free air subs?

[Vicseek]

JLG...Nope, the towers weren't stolen still running a pair of pro60's and pair of pro80's, will upgrade next year to 4XREV10's.

Here is my plan:
SD2 amp running a pro60 & pro80 (wired in parallel); 2ohm load on each channel. The 620 watts RMS is more than enough for this and supports the upgraded REV's next year when I swap them out.
SD6 amp running four pair of RGB650's (100watt rms/speaker) on channels 3-6, 2ohm load providing 290 watts RMS power. Once again more than enough to push eight of these boat speakers on four channels.
The other channels 1 & 2 will be dedicated to each XS-10FA (2ohm) sub. That should provide the 300 watt RMS handling subwoofer with 290 watts RMS from the amp. I'm wondering if that's going to be better than simply sticking with one XS-FA10 and bridging (mono) on channels 1 & 2 getting it 585 watts RMS or is this overkill for this sub?
With this setup in mind I did think about jumping up to a XXX in a "sealed" box however that would require an additional $1k to purchase "another" SD2 in order to provide something even close to the 1000 watts RMS that subwoofer requires. I'm just not sure I see the benefit, not to mention I'll have two channels on the SD6 not being used.
Thoughts? I'll take suggestions/comments since I'd hate to make a costly mistake I'll regret later

[Tulsah]

Also ... not sure what your bow cushion arrangement is like relative to my 13, but if there's space for a pair of 808's, that would be my choice. That was my intended upgrade plan, but there just wasn't enough room to fit them. I know it's possible with some earlier RZ2's ... just not sure how early.

[chpthril]

Where are u getting a 2 ohm 10fa? Only 4 ohm SVC unless something has recently changed. I would coincider a single xs-12 bridged on 1 and 2 of the sd-6

[Tulsah]

I did a similar upgrade last year, but stuck with 6 in-boats. As before, I wanted the 808's in the bow, but couldn't, make them fit. Failing that, I thought they could go in the main cabin area, but again, there wasn't a nice clean spot that satisfied my OCD. After having done it now and run it for a season, I can't imagine needing anything more in the cabin ... I would still like to have been able to beef up the bow though.

As for the sub(s), I wouldn't bother with the 10's or the XXX. Bang fur buck, I think that the XS-12 in a ported (or sealed) box under the helm is a monster. I run mine off CH 1/2 of an SD6, and it has never left me wanting more. 6 or 8 in-boats, 4 Rev10's on the tower and a single 12" sub can all be accommodated with an SD6 and SD2. Trust me, it rocks.

[Vicseek]

chpthril...I called wet sounds to double check (yes I too was skeptic) and they have the XS-10FA subs in both a 4ohm and 2ohm configuration. I'm not a voice coil or subwoofer expert but I wanted to make sure this was true since I could simply wire two 2ohms subs in series and bridge that configuration or better yet use each 2ohm sub for each channel (same difference IMO).

If the XS-10FA only came in 4ohm I'd definitely switch to the XS-12 since it would be more suited to the 585 watts the SD6 is capable to putting out for ch 1/2 bridged.

Tulsah... That system configuration sounds legit! I'm beefing up the front of my boat by installing the additional two 650's (one port side near the garbage, second starboard side near heater vent). I'm in the LED lighting craze so the only drawback is that XS-12 doesn't have RGB LED ring option + I'd have to build a box and attach it to the front side of the helm divider.
I'm banking on the theory that two 10's will sound louder due to the more surface area/air volume they can move as opposed to a 12" sub under similar power considerations.

On another note, looks like my alternator is a stock 100amp according to the PCM manual. Anybody with a modified sound system seen a need to swap theirs out for a more HD (200amp) alternator? I'm adding a third battery (second deep cell) in the starboard/taps locker so I can have more endurance in the cove. Wondering if I should upgrade my alternator before she craps out on me. Thoughts?

thx btw...for all the inputs! Love this forum!

[JLG]

there are some good suggestions here and something you could do is msg tim white on here (member wetsounds1) or even call as he will set you up a great system. CHP is also a great asset. I don't blame you for wanting to net the most out of what you have. On my last boat I powered my sw650s with a SD4 and it made them scream! The SD2 is obviously a great purchase as it will work now and for future systems.

[chpthril]

Series bridged when running 2 subs is best, as it only requires a single 2-conn wire from the amp to the subs.

585W rms is perfect for an xs-12. Put that in a ported enclosure and it will have more output with no additional amp wattage and have deeper bass extension. "sound better" is not really related to surface area, but rather determines output. Deeper bass from the larger woofer will give you better sound and the in a ported enclosure, the output will be more than 2 IB 10's. We do custom LED rings all the time, single color and RGB, so dont let that stop you.

[Vicseek]

So I'm curious about the AMP draw this system is going to require of my Alternator and Batteries when the engine is off. Here is a quick spreadsheet I made with approx. numbers of what to expect for battery life in a cove with speakers running etc.. I simply doubled the numbers since I'm going to install a second battery (deep cell), I also have my cranking batt but that's not a player in this calculation.
This website/calculator lets you input your power/speaker wire gauge/wire length and produces current flow/power to speaker/etc.. http://www.bcae1.com/images/swfs/spe...rassistant.swf
Based on these assumptions my %100 numbers are pushing full RMS watts to all speakers, all lights on, obviously I've forgot some other current sucking applications however, this is still just version 1.0
Amp Worsheet.jpg
I only have data from Interstate website for Amp hrs. base upon 5, 15,25 amp loads. I had to interpolate my numbers for 100%, %80, %50 amp loads so obviously these assumptions are not entirely accurate since the rate at which the batteries discharge is not a liner formula.

Based on this initial Hack... What do you think? I'm basically trying to mathematically prove that my 100amp alternator isn't enough to run this sound system at full RMS, run lights, charge iphones, run the engine, AND charge THREE batteries (1 crank, 2 deepcells), not to mention how ever many amp Tige Touch takes to run/operate, omg..just thought of ballast as well.. lol

[chpthril]

Theres a potential flaw in the data after a quick look at the link. Speaker output is AC, while amp current draw is DC. These 2 are hard to convert. In that chart/calculator under the "Output" results, is the "Current Flow (amps)" in AC or DC? I presume its in AC since its a chart for calculating speaker wire, which would carry AC. So that 10.37 A/AC would not translate to a 10A/DC amp current draw.

AND charge THREE batteries (1 crank, 2 deepcells)

It wont do this regardless of the stereo or other draws. Even a 200A alt is not designed to charge, depleted batteries. With 2 group-29s that will be used as a house bank while at rest, you will be best served to rely on shore charging.

Your OEM alternator will do just fine in keeping pace with the stereo load as long as you do not expect it to act as a battery charger.

[JLG]

As chp said you will be fine. I had 4- 12" subs pulling 2500w and 4 rev8 towers along with 6 sw650s in my last boat running on 3 deep cycle batteries and could pound for a long time before I would start the boat. As chp said you will need to charge them nightly with a good battery tender and you won't have any issues. Those WS amps are awesome at running efficiently if proper gauge wire is used.

[Ewok]

Chpthrill can give a good recommendation for a charger when the boat is off the water because your average trickle charger won't get close to charging those batteries very quickly. I only have 2 batteries, 1 starting and 1 house, and I use a 2 bank onboard charger with a max 10A to each bank. It's a smart charger and slows the current to a trickle charge to top off the batteries. Your going to need something like that but probably with a higher amp input to charge depleted deep cycle house batteries. If you run out of house battery juice before you're done in the party cove, you'll need to add more battery, a bigger alternator is not going to help.