Help me diagnose stereo issue

[WHammond]

Hey all

So an issue popped up on my 2005 Tige 22v. I have not seen or experienced it, as its been a few weeks since i've been out to the boat. It popped up while my brother was using it, so the only information I have is from him. I'll be checking it out for the first time this weekend, i'm looking for suggestions for things to check when I finally get my hands on it. It could be something super simple and easy that I notice the second I get out there, or it could be something less obvious. Anything to shorten the troubleshooting process is much appreciated.

Here's his description of the issue:
I was just out on the boat pulling someone while the music was playing, all the sudden it stopped playing as if I had muted it (would not power off, just no sound). It wouldn't come back on for 10+ minutes. It repeatedly did this for the rest of the day. The next time going out on the boat, it did the same thing and slowly got worse.It would play for nearly 30 seconds then completely shut off. As it progressed throughout the day, it got to the point to where the radio wouldn't turn on at all (including the aux, FM, AM, etc.). Now when the acc switch is flipped on, nothing turns on.

System:
3 sets 09 KM6250.2 KICKER Marine Component System
1 CDX-H910UI SONY Splash proof Marine CD Receiver
2 RM-X60M Blue SONY Marine Wired Remote Control
Wet Sounds rev 10'2 speakers
Kicker amp 300.1
Wet sounds w4
Wet sounds w6
Kicker free air sub

[philwsailz]

The description at a glance tells me your brother was playing the stereo much louder than you would have let him had you been on the boat. The description suggests amp thermalling for the issue on the first day. The second day sounds like a combination of being played too loudly with a dead battery.

How is your boat's electrical system wired? One battery or two? Are they on a battery switch? Is your stereo wired straight to one of the batteries or to the battery switch?

Phil
Kicker

[WHammond]

Well I definitely wouldn't put that out of the question.

I've got three batteries with a battery switch. If I remember correctly, two are deep cycle one is cranking w/ an automatic isolator. I couldn't tell you at the moment where the stereo is wired to. All I know is that the stereo is separated from the ignition on the ACC switch on the dash.

Apologies for the lack of information. We got the boat at the beginning of the season, i've been needing/wanting to dig and find out how everything is wired exactly. At least this will give me the incentive to do it.

[chpthril]

Are you using the on-board charger on a regular basis? Those 2 big group-29 batteries can be a handful for the alternator to recharge if they are getting drawn low.

i've been needing/wanting to dig and find out how everything is wired exactly

I can tell you exactly, but if there is something deeper than what ive emailed you, by all means, lets get it back up to the shop.

[WHammond]

I'm typically pretty good about it. That's definitely a possibility, I highly doubt my brother used it at all when he was out there those two weekends.

I just need to get my hands and eyes on it. I'll report back.

[dakota4ce]

I second the thermalling issue to start the problems. Have had that happen to me in various settings.

[chpthril]

I dont think its thermal. All 3 amps are mounted on standoffs, fed with 4ga cabling that branches off of 1.0 thats only about 4ft from the battery bank. The only amp thats remotely driven hard, is the HT4 bridged in to 2 chnl mode, thats driving the pair of Rev-10. The 300.1 is driving a 2 ohm sub and the HT6 is driving 6 in-boats, so all chnls are @ 2 ohm. Its also very odd to have more than one zone/amp go into thermal at the same time.

[WHammond]

I didn't get out to the lake house/boat this weekend. Ended up cleaning and selling my old supra direct drive. I'll report back once I get out to it.