Wiring second set of rev 10's on z3

[Travism]

Any help ? Headed on holidays Friday

[chpthril]

You need to make absolutely sure the EQ's red B+ is hooked to a B+ and is the same as the amps and head-unit, and the blue turn-on is triggered by the head-units turn-on circuit. How many amps are in your system total?

[Travism]

I had the factory stereo with a syn 6 and syn2 amp and 6 in boats with 2 rev 10's. I removed the syn2 and replaced it with the sd2 I used all the wiring from the syn2 factory install. I hooked the power, ground and remote from the ws420sq to the lugs on the sd2 amp.

I will double check the wiring tomorrow night but everything on the 420 is working properly and I can't see myself hooking it up backwards but stranger things have happend.

Thanks for the help as always.

[JohnnieMo]

Hey Travis... I was thinking more about this after our chat last night.

Speakers and amps are relatively simple devices. They just sorta do what they're told. So if a pop is coming through your speakers, it means something upstream is likely sending that pop. Pops like this generally happen when you apply power to something. With my home theatre, I can get a pop when the stereo turns on prior to the TV/cable box. So this tells me that either your EQ or head unit are turning on after the amplifier. However "why" is a good question.

It could be that the sd2 turns on really fast. Or its even possible it is defective. But I sorta doubt that.

As we were discussing, it could also be a voltage problem. Low voltage can do very unusual things.

Here is what I would do, in the order I would do them:

1) Stick a volt meter across the +/- on that SD2. Monitor the voltage at startup. See if there are spikes or dips.
2) Do the same thing between remote wire and -. Again watch for the same thing.
3) Do the same thing with the 420.
4) If none of these identify an issue, try putting the syn2 back inline and see if the pop goes away. (if it does, the SD2 is your culprit)
5) If the pop is still present, I would then re-wire to temporarily remove the 420.

If you never get rid of the pop, it is likely a voltage supply issue. As we discussed, the boat has two power circuits, the house battery (deep cycle), and the cranking battery. I'm not sure how the wiring works (I assume when chpthrl says B+ B- he is referring to B being the house battery circuit). Things can go very funny if you are pulling power from the wrong circuit and connecting devices from differing power circuits. But from what you said, everything is coming from the factory power leads.

You also noted some weird buzzers in the boat.... that could also mean voltage supply issues.

I'm out of my element here, but I've heard guys say that the alternators are unpowered in these boats, so you may not be getting a full charge on your house battery from the boat itself. Hooking up a smart charger on that house circuit when the boat is parked might be a good idea. A good charge on that battery might make all your troubles go away. From what you said about running for 6 hours with the boat off, you may have really drained that house battery. (You can get a nice Genius 3500 charger from Canadian Tire for about $100. I have one and it has saved numerous batteries for me)

Anyways, a bit of a brain dump. I posted it here in case someone sees a flaw in my process.