hissing speakers

[kiwia]

just got a 2010 z1, had dealer add syn 6 two rev8s & sub, it has 4 interior speakers all hooked to the amp, with sound turned all the way down it has a loud hissing noise, if you hit any power switches lights, blower etc it will buzz or thump through speakers, if i turn the gain all the way down the noise go away but you can hardly hear the stereo , the sub is bridged on channel 5 & 6 , rev8s on 3 & 4, interior on 1 & 2, i ran new ground, no different. would love some help

[chpthril]

First, lets fix the problem, then we will address the other concern, which is a single amp driving all that.

You say you ran a new ground, new ground for what, the amp? Where was the original ground connecting to and where did you run the new one to?

Where is the amp's B+ terminating to?

Does your boat have the factory Tige EIDB dual battery option? If not, does it have a post-build dual battery system? If so, I need details. Or, just a single battery.

If the hiss is present with and without the engine running, its almost always due to the gain levels being too high, especially on the chnls running full-range speakers.

The Syn-6 has 3 gain dials, one for chnls 1 and 2, one for 3 and 4 and the last for 5 and 6. I would not want to see the gain levels past 50%. Beyond the gains, the other amp settings probably need some correcting.

Next, you need a 2nd amp for those tower speakers. At present, you have a powerful 8" HLVD speaker that would like to see 200W rms each and shine with more. At present, they are only receiving 60W rms.

You have 2 routes you can go. A) install a 2 or 4 chnl just for the 4 in-boats and then bridge the Rev-8's and chnls 1/2 and 3/4 of the Syn-6. They will then be receiving 200W rms. B) install the amp just for the Rev-8's, leaving the 4 chnls on the Syn-6 just for the in-boats.

I need to run, but can make some amp recommendations for either route later on.

[kiwia]

i ran a new ground for the head unit, i think it has the factory dual battery set up, it has two batteries, the amp b+ & - is ran straight to the battery, the noise is there with engine off, with the gain all the way down the noise goes away, can i run the 4 interior speakers off the head unit & use amp for tower & sub

[chpthril]

Ok, does the boat have a dual battery switch? is it labeled: OFF ON and COMBINE or OFF 1 BOTH 2 ?

Regardless of which switch, having the amp's B+ going directly to the battery is not ideal in this case. There is also a chance that the amp is connected to the main cranking, thus defeating the purpose of having 2 batteries that are isolated from each other. Lastly, the amp and head-unit could also be drawing from different batteries. This is an invitation for unwanted noise.

Yes, you can relocate the 4 in-boats back to the head-unit, but it really hinders their sound quality and volume, especially when underway.

If you want to keep with the same amp series for aesthetics, I would suggest the Syn-2 for the Rev-8's or a Syn Micro for the 2 pair of in-boats. If maintaining a consistent look is not important, then I would suggest an HT-4 for the Rev-8 and leave the 4 in-boats to run on the 4 hi-pass chnls of the Syn6.

[kiwia]

thanks for the help, the battery switch is just on off, when off all lights pumps etc still work, so they are hooked to the second battery with amp since all the noise comes through the speakers when you switch a pump on, should i just move that power wire to cranking battery

[chpthril]

Ok, thats helpful info, Sounds like your 2010 has the original Tige EIDB Dual-Battery setup that used a diode isolator. So in that case, the amp's B+ does need to go directly to the house battery's B+ post.

To insure thats the case, look for the isolator mounted to the transom of the front wall of the engine bay. it will have 3 red cables to it and look like this pic. Once its confirmed that the head-unit and amp are indeed sharing the same battery, the house battery, then move on to the amp's settings.

[kiwia]

it does have the isolator mounted on the transom, when we switch off the power switch the ignition has no power but all lights, pumps etc still work, shouldn't the lights, pumps etc all loss power when the main switch is off. what i am saying is shouldn't lights pumps etc be on cranking battery

[chpthril]

Not necessarily. Sounds odd, i know, but they way Tige sets it up, the main cranking powers all things engine and engine management. The switch really just prevents the boat from starting, when the switch is off. All the other non-engine related loads are drawing from the house battery.

[CarFanatic]

Mike.

I have noticed that you always will have a hiss coming out of the rev series speakers. Isn't that normal? Or am I off? Seems like the hlcds. Just hiss no matter what. I have mine run through a 420eq. Which I'm also told can add to the hiss

[racerdave]

mine hiss also when music is off or volume is low so I am all ears on this one!

[chpthril]

Due to the efficiency and sensitivity of the compression driver, coupled with the amount of power wee drive them with, it is normal for an HLCD to emit a low wight noise when the there is no music. It should not be audible until you put your head close to the speaker.

[CarFanatic]

mine is audible... but you don't hear it when music is playing. I was told that the mic input on the ws420 adds to the hiss??

[chpthril]

mine is audible... but you don't hear it when music is playing. I was told that the mic input on the ws420 adds to the hiss??

as a test, swap the in-boat and tower RCA outputs at the back of the EQ. This puts the tower speakers on a completely different circuit. i'll bet the noise is still present. Ive read this posted a couple of times, but have never duplicated it. Weve done both HLCDs and coaxials and many different amps on the WS-420 and have never had hiss due to the MIC. With the introduction of a line-driver like the 420, the amp gains should be set lower then they would without a line driver. This can cause the "gain hiss"

[duffymahoney]

Is there a sticky on wiring a stereo? I am re-doing my whole thing. I know that my amps were connected directly to the + side of the stereo battery, now they are connect to the battery switch, negatives are all running to a single post on a single battery. Which I think it's as good. I have dual high end 4 gauge wiring going to each amp, each has a home run negative as well. Is that enough? I am going wetsounds wet wire for rca's to my 420. Then mounting the amps to marine plastic board that will be glued to the hull. I plan on using a distribution block on the interior amp to power the 420. Right now it's just a mess or wires. anything I am missing? I know running a 1 or 0 cable and doing a block would be better, but will the 4 gauge work? I have a 5 channel JL and a JL 750HD.

[CarFanatic]

so you just think my gains are set to high? I should turn them down till I don't hear the noise any more? When the music is on it sounds damn good, and the rev 10's get loud and sound clean, but you hear the hiss when no music is playing.