Contemplated System Upgrade

[Tulsah]

Ok, time for issue #2. I have a pair of XS-808's that I had planned to fit into the factory locations in the bow, replacing the XS-650's. After some fairly serious pondering and removing one of the factory speakers for some measurements, I am fairly certain that these beasts are not likely to fit. I think that those that have fit them into RZ2's before, did so on models of another vintage ... it doesn't look good or my 2013.

That said, I have a few options left:

1) Bow XS-650's to ch's 1&2 on SD-6 @ 185W each, remaining 2 pair run in parallel groups to ch's 3 & 4 of SD-6 @ 145W each.

2) Add 4th pair of XS-650's to the boat with 2 speakers on each of ch's 1-4 of SD-6 @ 145W each.

Unless I can figure a way to get the larger speakers shoehorned in, I think these are my only options. Ideally, option 1 would be preferred, but I worry about that much juice to the 650's. Pictures of the bow situation are below. Thoughts and suggestions are always welcome and appreciated.

-Tulsah

[chpthril]

Leave all the XS-650 in place and just find a spot for the pair of 808's. IMO, the main cabin would be where you would get the most benefit from them, not the bow. Run the bow pair on chnls 1 and 2 and gain them accordingly so they do not over drive and distort, the port side mid and aft on chnl 3, stbd mid and aft on 4 and the 808's on 5 and 6.

[Tulsah]

Leave all the XS-650 in place and just find a spot for the pair of 808's. IMO, the main cabin would be where you would get the most benefit from them, not the bow. Run the bow pair on chnls 1 and 2 and gain them accordingly so they do not over drive and distort, the port side mid and aft on chnl 3, stbd mid and aft on 4 and the 808's on 5 and 6.

Thanks for the thoughts Mike. What I failed to mention above is that ch's 5 & 6 on the SD-6 are reserved for my sub.

I suppose that both of the options I had considered can be made to work, however, another possibility would be to add the 808's to the main cabin and parallel them with an existing pair of 650's. That would have all 8 in-boat speakers at 145W. I know that the channels with the 650/808 would have to be gained to the limits of the 650's. That said, is there net benefit in this possibility - some being better than none?

[Duncan]

IMO, the main cabin would be where you would get the most benefit from them, not the bow.

I drive on the bolster all the time. My bow 808s were the greatest upgrade for sound quality I have done for my driver's position--it is literally sitting in front of a pair of stereo speakers. And riders often fight for the sound sweet spot the bow provides.

I cannot find a pic of the 808s squeezed into the bow of our 2009 RZ2. But that will be a priority when I get the boat back from the dealer in a few weeks.

[Tulsah]

I drive on the bolster all the time. My bow 808s were the greatest upgrade for sound quality I have done for my driver's position--it is literally sitting in front of a pair of stereo speakers. And riders often fight for the sound sweet spot the bow provides.

I cannot find a pic of the 808s squeezed into the bow of our 2009 RZ2. But that will be a priority when I get the boat back from the dealer in a few weeks.

Thanks Duncan. Is the cushion/speaker layout the same in your 09? The fiberglass on my 13 is molded to just the right size for the 650's. I could surely squeeze the 808's in there, but I don't think that there would be anything to screw them into on the side of the speaker closest to the mid-boat line.

[Tulsah]

So, as I had found out in previous posts, the trim pieces between the Alpha-Z tower and the speaker pods is different for REV 8's and 10's. This meant that there was no way of using the trim when upgrading my system from 2x10 + 2x8 to 4x10. All of this is further complicated by the draconian tactic Tige employs in that the trim pieces are not for available without the purchase of a set of speakers through them ... at a very reasonable markup of course (sarcasm).

Anyhow, my solution was to just make my own trim pieces. The process goes like this:

Establish a moulding part line


Build layers of Silicone


Mould half 1 complete


Build silicone layers for mould half 2


Completed mould


Test part success!






From here, I will make a few more pieces and then do a quick sand to get rid of residual moulding laitance and then prime and paint with an automotive type paint with appropriate flex and UV inhibitive catalysts.

[Stingreye]

Nice work!

[Travism]

I don't think you can blame the price of the speakers/mounts on Tige. I ordered mine through my dealer for 100 more than what they cost through wetsounds including the Tige trim pieces.

on another note, awesome fab work !!

[Tulsah]

Good thing the wife was gone for the weekend ... that way she doesn't see what I've done to the boat that "doesn't need anything" until it's too late to stop me!

[Tulsah]

Ok, so the sub box is in (pictures soon), and all that remains beneath the helm is to fabricate the balance of the filler and access panel pieces. Also to do is mount and wire in the WS-420BT. This brings up my next question - what is the recommended wiring procedure for the remote wire to the EQ? That is, do I connect it all together with the remote wires for the amps and head unit, or do I need to connect it via a relay arrangement? If the latter, could someone please elaborate. Thanks.

-Tulsah

[chpthril]

Up to 3 devises on the head-unit's turn-on circuit is safe, after that, its a good idea to use a relay. Relay is fed by the same source as the amp, head-unit and EQ and triggered via the head-unit's turn-on lead.

[Tulsah]

Up to 3 devises on the head-unit's turn-on circuit is safe, after that, its a good idea to use a relay. Relay is fed by the same source as the amp, head-unit and EQ and triggered via the head-unit's turn-on lead.

Thanks Mike. Apart from the device load issue on the HU remote line, is it necessary/advisable to trigger the EQ, amps or both via a relay to avoid turn-on pop?

-Tulsah

[chpthril]

I treat the EQ as an amp.

[Tulsah]

Has anyone else checked the speaker wiring through the towers in their recent model boats? My 2013 tower was factory wired with 16ga throughout - speakers and LED's all connected with the same wire. I'm baffled why Tige would run 12ga to each every 6.5" throughout the boat and then 16ga for the tower. Granted, they have not allowed a lot of space for wiring, so ease/convenience of construction is certainly a factor, but this just doesn't seem right. Am I off base here?

[Duncan]

Thanks Duncan. Is the cushion/speaker layout the same in your 09? The fiberglass on my 13 is molded to just the right size for the 650's. I could surely squeeze the 808's in there, but I don't think that there would be anything to screw them into on the side of the speaker closest to the mid-boat line.

Sry, I missed this when it popped up. Our 09 RZ2 does not have the contoured molding in the bow.