Tim, can we get some db reading posted and when you going to bring one of your boats to lake of the ozarks. Plenty of events coming up this summer
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My next brain wracking challenge is in power cable sizing ... I understand that from a distribution block located close to the amps that 4awg power and ground wire is appropriate. However, it's the size of the power and ground wire from the batteries and the appropriate B+ fusing that has me confused. If, for instance, I installed 1xSD-6 and 2xSD-2, then the total potential power output of the system is 3600 RMS Watts. I know that this output condition would never be reached - good thing because I can't even find a chart that lists cable for that power capacity in a 12V system.Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More
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Originally posted by chpthril View PostIn short, you need to use a chart that is for 12V DC, not AC. The gauge will be determined by potential current draw x distance. In an RZ2, you are looking at about a 20ft distance from the batteries to the amp area. There are a few methods to calculate the average/potential/estimated current draw. One easy way, that will yield a very conservative cage gauge, is to total sum the fuses of all the amps. This will give you a close figure to what the amp would draw at its peak output, even though the amp will likely never draw that much. A more realistic number, would be about .5 of that.2013 RZ2 with Convex VX, MLA Custom Sacs
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yes, the entire circuit is part of a DC calculationMikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More
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Originally posted by ChrisBarnes05-12-84 View Post1/0 gauge will be fine. I run 2 sd6's and 1 sd2 from a single 1/0 gauge line. It is split at a distribution block with 4 gauge to amps. I have even thought about adding an amp and am confident it would be fine.2013 RZ2 with Convex VX, MLA Custom Sacs
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I know some have done it, but I'm wondering if anyone could post up a pic or two and descriptions of process of XS-808's installed into the bow of any of the recent model boats - RZ2's would be most helpful. I understand that some have fit the larger speakers into the factory locations by trimming the 808 grilles and some have done it by painstakingly massaging them in. Either way, I'm keen to see the finished look, though my preference would be to go the route of massaging them in without modification to the speaker or boat (other than the hole size) - it may not be possible through ... Thanks.
-tulsah2013 RZ2 with Convex VX, MLA Custom Sacs
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Another question ... Has anyone swapped out Rev 10's for Rev 8's and re-used the trim pieces between the speakers and the Alpha Z tower? I was previously told that they were the same for both series of speaker, but Tige has since informed me that they are slightly different. However, they did think that the Rev 8 trim pieces could be ground or drilled to work on the Rev 10's without too much trouble. That said though, if not then they are shot and the only way to replace them would be to order a set of speakers from Tige. Curious if anyone has been through this and what degree of danger/difficulty it entails. Thanks.
-tulsah2013 RZ2 with Convex VX, MLA Custom Sacs
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Originally posted by Tulsah View PostI know some have done it, but I'm wondering if anyone could post up a pic or two and descriptions of process of XS-808's installed into the bow of any of the recent model boats - RZ2's would be most helpful. I understand that some have fit the larger speakers into the factory locations by trimming the 808 grilles and some have done it by painstakingly massaging them in. Either way, I'm keen to see the finished look, though my preference would be to go the route of massaging them in without modification to the speaker or boat (other than the hole size) - it may not be possible through ... Thanks.
-tulsah
The bottom of the grill does go below the level of the cushion by a half inch or so. But nothing that looks out of place imhop.
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Originally posted by Tulsah View PostAnother question ... Has anyone swapped out Rev 10's for Rev 8's and re-used the trim pieces between the speakers and the Alpha Z tower? I was previously told that they were the same for both series of speaker, but Tige has since informed me that they are slightly different. However, they did think that the Rev 8 trim pieces could be ground or drilled to work on the Rev 10's without too much trouble. That said though, if not then they are shot and the only way to replace them would be to order a set of speakers from Tige. Curious if anyone has been through this and what degree of danger/difficulty it entails. Thanks.
-tulsah
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Originally posted by Duncan View PostMount them up without the trim pieces and see what you think. Mine Rev10s do not have trim and I like them just fine. My original MB8s came from the factory with no trim while the original Pro60s had trim. I think I prefer no trim better.2013 RZ2 with Convex VX, MLA Custom Sacs
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Can anyone tell me if this chart is good/bad/otherwise for a frequency response from an XS-12. The box volume in this example is 2.1 cuft and the tuned frequency is 29.5Hz. I played with a number of box sizes and frequencies, and most yielded significant spikes. This seemed to be the best I could do with box size/frequency to get a flat response. Thoughts?
Last edited by Tulsah; 04-08-2014, 02:43 AM.2013 RZ2 with Convex VX, MLA Custom Sacs
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OK, so I've gone ahead and ordered every last piece that will be required for my stereo overhaul. All of the various components are due to arrive by mid next week, and then the real fun can begin.
In the meantime, I've been doing some recon around the boat and have yet another question ... At present, there are a pair of Rev10's and a pair of Rev8's on the tower, as installed by the factory and driven by a Syn2. What I've noticed though is that there are only two pairs of what appear to be 12/14ga wire connected to the amps, and not 4 pairs. I'm assuming that there is a junction of the 4 pairs into two somewhere in the bowels of the tower? That said, when I go ahead and replace the Rev8's with another pair of Rev10's and connect it all to an SD2, is the speaker wiring in place sufficient, or will I be better off / required to locate the junction and extend the other two pairs of wires the rest of the way to the amplifier?
Thanks in advance for any help and insight.
-Tulsah2013 RZ2 with Convex VX, MLA Custom Sacs
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I would home-run each speaker to the amp. If you fold the tower down, I think you might find that splice in the lower section of the tower before those wires pass through the deckMikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More
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So ... I am now in possession of all of the parts and components required for my planned upgrade. I am going with pretty much everything detailed in the first post of the thread, with the exception of the in-boat speakers. I have opted to fit XS-808's in the bow and leave the remaining four XS-650's as is. Also, I have a WS-420BT on order instead of the originally planned 420SQ.
I'm going to try and keep the thread updated with progress pictures as I go about getting everything built and installed.
At this time, I can report on the first issue that has come up ... it turns out that the trim rings between the Rev speakers and the tower are indeed different for 8's and 10's. They have a unique Tige part #, and the trim rings from the 8's just do not match the profile of the 10's. I really like the look with these rings on, so I am going to try and produce another set for the 10's by molding and casting them from resin.
-Tulsah2013 RZ2 with Convex VX, MLA Custom Sacs
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