Help Tune my ToP Rev 10s System on my RZ4

[Cloud]

I found this on the forums. Is this what I'm trying to do?
2009TowerOfPowerSchematic.jpg

[Cloud]

I did some messing around myself and here is what I found.

The Tower does fade. I must have missed the setting. It fades from Tower to inboat speakers from the setting called "No Fader." I think this would be pretty useful in the future.
Just "Fader" fades music from the inboat speakers to the sub I believe, with no change to the Tower Speakers at all. Fading to the front makes the inboat speakers louder and basically
turns off the sub. Fading to the rear the inboat speakers became very quiet, but the sub didn't really get louder. The Tower speakers did not change at all while adjusting Fader.

Also all the gain settings were on max on both the Syn 2 and Syn 6. I put them all the way down and most of the hissing is now gone, but got to crank the volume up a lot.
The hissing was most effected from turning down the gain settings from channel 3 and 4, but thought that was weird since nothing was connected to channels 3 and 4.

I didn't move any of the RCAs because I was unsure where the purple wire was and where to move it to. All the wires from the headunit are taped together.

[CarFanatic]

What chpthrl said you need to set rev 10's to about 90 hz high pass. I run mine of a syn 4 at 90 hz and up and they are loud and have a lot of mid bass.

There is also a level control under the dash for the sub volume. That's what that telephone looking cord coming out of the syn 6 is.

cloud where are you located?

[chpthril]

The Tower does fade. I must have missed the setting. It fades from Tower to inboat speakers from the setting called "No Fader."

Sounds like thats the Non-Fade sensitivity I was referring to. That setting needs to be set to a med/high level. But, thats not the front/rear fade.

Dont worry about left/right balance right now, just make sure its centered. If any of the in-boats are paired wrong in terms of left right balance, we can fix that later and get stereo back. But for now, lets work on the front/rear fade as it effects the in-boats, tower and sub.

Correct, not going to mess with the RCA cables at the amp, just the back of the head-unit. Much easier as they are all right there. Once you peel back the electrical tape and conduit from the harness behind the head-unit, you will see a lot of leads with RCA style plugs. Theres 4 sets of leads with a total of 8 plugs. We only need to focus on 2 sets, the black and gray leads. Just note that all the plugs are red and white, so look for the ones with the gray and black leads coming off the head-unit.

Gray leads = connect these to the RCA cable going to the CHNL 1 and CHNL 2 inputs on the Syn-6.

Black leads = connect these to the only RCA inputs on the Syn-2.

Now make those changes to the Syn-6 that we've laid out. With the head-unit fade knob, if you fade all the way to front, only the in-boats and sub will play. If you fade all the way to rear, only the tower speakers will play.

Now, another option is to connect the purple non-fade outputs to the chnl 5 and 6 inputs of the Syn-6. This feeds the sub with a signal that will not go up or down as the fade dial is used. This puts more control to the sub volume knob under the helm and would allow the sub to play even if you faded the in-boats down and left the towers playing. If you go this option, leave the CH 5-6 INPUT as is in the OUT/DIRECT position.

For now, turn all the gains down to 0 and leave. once we get all the other settings and RCA configurations worked out, we can set the gains.

[Cloud]

Ok I took off all the tape, and found out that the non fade purple were wired into the towers. I switched it with the subs and confirmed that the subs are on channel 5/6.

I think the tech did it on purpose because the purple non fades wouldn't reach the sub wires due to the way they taped it. I had to cut the tape back a good 2 feet which allowed me to pull it in closer.

I'm assuming you don't want me to change the channel 5/6 switch to get it's signal from 1/2 anymore, correct?

Even with that simple switch of the non fades, the system already sounds a lot better.

What's next?

[chpthril]

I'm assuming you don't want me to change the channel 5/6 switch to get it's signal from 1/2 anymore, correct?

10-4, leave that switch as is for now.

[Cloud]

Does everything look good Mike?

20140216_193955.jpg20140216_194626.jpg

Everything sounds so much better now. The only thing is that the tower speakers seem like they only do treble now and no bass. Is that because we set the amp to high instead of full? I liked them better when they did the whole range.

The fader also fades between the tower and the inboats now which is awesome.

[chpthril]

On the Syn-2, make sure that the FREQ RANGE button is on the OUT X1 position. Its like changing the ohm range on a volt meter......basically moving the decimal so to speak. This will greatly impact mid-bass.

Event though its a 10" its not sub-woofer. The Rev-10 is a mid-bass driver with a cross-over network and needs to be treated as such. It can be driven @ full-pass, but for what that tower speaker is intended to do, its better on the speaker, and less stressful on the amp, to run it in hi-pass. This limits the low range to the speaker, allowing it to play more efficient. The position we have ballparked the frequency setting is not exact, but is a good place to start fine tuning. You can turn it down a little at a time while playing a variety of music at different volume levels. Given the conservative level of power they are running, you may find that they will comfortably play down in the 50-55 Hz range. But I would still suggest leaving the amp on hi-pass.

[CarFanatic]

chpthril whats the 12db 24db on channel 5 and 6 do?

Is there a high pass and low pass selection for each channel? or is it just on channel 5-6?

[chpthril]

chpthril whats the 12db 24db on channel 5 and 6 do?

Is there a high pass and low pass selection for each channel? or is it just on channel 5-6?

The 12db/stereo position would be for when you wanted to run a speaker on chnl 5 and a speaker on chnl 6 and have true stereo - left speakers gets left material, right speaker gets right music material. the 24db/mono is for when you need to bridge a speaker or sub. In mono, the input is combined, or summed, so all music material is going to the speaker. This is especially important when bridging a pod like the 485 or 410. There would be a noticeable difference in sound quality and output if the pod was only receiving the left or right material.

Chnls 1-4 are hi-pass only and designed to run only full-range speakers. 5 and 6 can run speakers on hi-pass or subs on low-pass.

[CarFanatic]

sweet thanks man I was confused about that! Makes sense now!

what hz do you run in boats at? 100?

[chpthril]

Thats a loaded question, to which there is no real wrong answer. Its more of an ideal range, then settling on a frequency that sounds good. A higher frequency allows for a little more output, lower frequency offers more mid-bass for a fuller, richer sound. The size of the speaker and the sub setup also come into play. Larger speakers will naturally play lower. We also want a smooth transition from the sub to the mids. we try to avoid a gap and too much overlap. 100hz is ok for just about any typical 6.5" coaxial in-boat, but most could go a tad lower. For a tower coax, I probably wouldnt go lower.

[CarFanatic]

ya running xs650's I usually tune for fuller sound. running 12 inch sub. The syn 6 kinda under powers the rms of the xs650's I"d like to feed them more.