Help Tune my ToP Rev 10s System on my RZ4

[Cloud]

Mike's been helping me quite a bit and I think it would be easier to make a thread so I can upload some pictures of the amp settings.

I feel like the ToP is lacking, especially in base. Here are the factory amp settings right now.

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I have also heard that making a hole behind the sub will help out a lot, but my factory heater is in the way.

[boardman74]

The factory sub isn't very good. With the factory system you are going to lack bass for sure. Your tower speakers are for projection. You can easily hear them at wake boarding length and speed. I'm sure the 10's are better than the 8's I had, but they don't produce a lot of bass. Not what tower speakers are made for, they aren't subs. To get my system to sound balanced I had to gain the cabin speakers way back and put the towers on an independent volume control. The system just doesn't have enough bass with the factory free air 10. This is the reason I just order base stereo. I can do the stereo better for way less money.

[chpthril]

Sorry for the

Boardman,

You are condemning the Wet Sounds XS-10fa for the wrong reasons. Your statements are a little misleading without some context. Please allow me.

The factory sub isn't very good

Built quality = its built like a tank. Ive been running mine for 5 years. The XS-10fa will handle more power then the JL M10IB. The JL has a little more excursion, so if each was powered at their respective RMS, their output would be very close to the average listener.

With the factory system you are going to lack bass for sure.

This has been covered in a few threads over the past year. It has been determined that a top cap change by Tige, has created a very small cavity for the 10fa to work in. This has been discussed by Tim White of Wet Sounds and he is working with Tige for a future solution. Like with ANY sub-woofer, the enclosure has a huge impact on the woofers performance. So not fair to down the woofer for an issue with the enclosure/cavity. An IB needs 2 main things: 1) complete front/rear isolation. It gets that in a Tige. I see many other OEM systems where they may use an IB sub, but its in a false wall thats open over the top. Mastercraft is one thats down this on past models. 2) an IB sub needs a large cavity in order to operate to its potential. Its not designed for a small enclosure, which is what is no happening on the current model Tige boats.

The next thing to address is the power the sub is receiving. This will also directly effect a woofers output. Personally, I like to see the 10fa with about 400W rms, and 250W rms @ a minimum. Ive powered it from 150W rms to 500W rms, and feel that 400W is perfect. Based on the pics above, it looks like Cloud's is wired to only chnl 5. This will limits the woofer's output and may not be enough for some people.

I'm sure the 10's are better than the 8's I had, but they don't produce a lot of bass

Yes, a full-range speaker is not a sub-woofer, but the mid-bass output from the Rev-10 is phenomenal! Mine are powered bridged on an SD-6 tuned to 80Hz. 5ft away, you can feel it in your chest. Boardman, if you are not happy with the mid-bass from your Rev-10's, I would suggest seeking the assistance of someone familiar with the Rev-10 tuning to help you.

[boardman74]

I had the 8's Mike, Like I said I'm sure the 10 is better. The factory system lacks bass in every boat I have heard. Thats my opinion and my untrained ear. I'm not the only one to say that. I had a couple different professionals tune my boat and wasn't any happier than when I tuned it with my untrained ears. Just a little lighter in the wallet. With that said we loved the projection ability of the REV8 and will be running them again this year on our 2014. I just don't expect much bass output from them. But they get loud and are crystal clear.

I also didn't mean the factory sub wasn't very good from a quality standpoint, but a bass production standpoint. Wetsounds makes the best marine product out there IMO. I only had 300 watts to mine so maybe I need more power this year. Nice thing about a new boat every year is i can try something new and see the difference.

[chpthril]

Cloud,

In pic #1 of the Syn-2:
The slide switch labeled "low" "hi" and "full". This needs to be set to the "Hi" position.
The next switch to the right, I would set to "L + R mono"
Rotary dial labeled "Freq Hz" I would set to half way between the 55 and 110 marks.

Let me study on the pics of the Syn-6 and get back to you on those. Also, do you have a pic of how many, and where the are plugged into, of the RCA cable going to the Syn-6?

[Cloud]

I'll try to take them but the position of the amps makes it almost impossible to see. Wish they installed like like a foot forward.

[Cloud]

Probably a dumb question but how do you know where the dial is set too since It's a straight line? Do I zero it out by going clockwise or counter?

[chpthril]

Right now, its either set to about 150HZ or 550HZ. My gut says its 150Hz. Turn it all the way down/counter clockwise and you will see where the slot points to. Now turn it up till slot aligns to between the 55 and 110.

[chpthril]

The factory system lacks bass in every boat I have heard. Thats my opinion and my untrained ear.

Not disputing your opinion in any way, just wanting to explain to those fallowing that its not the sub itself. Lack of power and improper enclosure can make a $500 sub sound like @$$ too.

I also didn't mean the factory sub wasn't very good from a quality standpoint, but a bass production standpoint.

The XS-10fa will put out very good bass. As outlined in this thread and others, there are some things hampering the woofers output. Put any sub of your choice in its place and the lack luster performance will be the same. Perspective also has a lot to do with it also. If you tow your 3 axle construction trailer with a 2500 truck and then need to barrow your buds 1500........cant really blame the truck.

[Cloud]

Was tricky but I got the shot of Syn-6.

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Also there is a pretty loud hissing/static noise when the Audio is on. Doesn't matter if something is playing, or not. Even with the volume down to 1.

[chpthril]

Awesome, that pic helps a lot.

When you get back into the boat next, go into the head-unit and fade all the way to front and all the way to rear and tell me whether fade is effecting the tower speakers and in-boats or in-boats and sub or towers and sub. Either the tower or the sub is on that "non-Fade" output and we need to see which and make sure that that non-fade sensitivity is turned up.

Hissing could be a low battery, how longs since the boat has last run? Is is heard from all the speakers or just one zone like towers or in-boats? Could be the gain levels, which we havent addressed yet.

[Cloud]

Ok. Something is definitely wrong. When I fade left to right the tower speakers fade too but the wierd thing is the front to back. The front to back doesn't effect the tower at all but the fronts are rears are connected. When I fade to front the front 2 and rear 2 get louder. When I fade back those 4 get quieter. Also I forgot about the middle 2 and sub. I'll check those when I get home.

[boardman74]

Don't bet that the factory hooked them up right. When I added to my factory system last year 2 of the speakers were hooked up to the wrong spot on the stereo. I think it was the front right and the back left that were crossed and the other 2 were wired to the right point. Made it really weird when you did the fade or balance. Maybe its possible your stereo isn't wired properly.

[chpthril]

Ok, sounds like the tower amp is supplied by the non-fade (purple leads) RCAs. If the non-fade sensitivity is low, this will hamper the output of the tower speakers. Personally, I prefer the tower amp and in-boat/sub amp to be on the front and rear RCA outputs and leave the non-fade out of the loop. To do this, you just need to change the position of one switch on the Syn-6 and swap 2 RCA cables behind the head-unit.

"FRONT" have gray leads, "REAR" have black leads and "NON-FADE" have purple leads.

gray leads to the chnl-1 and chnl-2 inputs of the Syn-6 and the black leads to the L and R inputs of the Syn-2. Change the position of the circled switch on the Syn-6 and the sub will get its signal from the single set of RCAs in the chnl-1 and chnl-2 plugs.

[Cloud]

So just to be sure I'm not switching any RCAs on the amps and just the ones on the headunit? So I remove the purple ones and where do I plug them into?