Amp is dead?!? (no sound through speakers)

[bvaughn]

Last time out (2 weeks ago), everything was working perfectly. I have a 2010 22 Ve with the Wetsounds amp, sub and six onboard speakers - all factory installed.

Today, I get to the lake and there is no sound from any speakers, and I assume this means my amp is not getting power. The only thing that happened between now and then was a battery charge to my second battery.

My stereo head unit is working, everything else is working including Tige Touch. I hope that this is just a fuse issue. The problem is that I'm a total newb and have no idea what fuses to check. I got up underneath the steering wheel to see if anything stuck out...nothing did. I pulled the 4 fuses on the end of the Wetsounds amp, and they all looked fine.

What fuses should I check and where are they? I figure there are just a few that would be regulating power to the amp, but I just don't know where specifically to look. Thanks for any help!

[chpthril]

1st off, are there any lights lit up on the amp? Blue is normal operation, red (may be flashing) indicates an internal problem. Next step is going to require a volt meter. you will need to test for battery+ and battery- at the amp's main cable terminals and B+ on the small turn-on circuit.

[laserfish]

Last time we had that happen, we forgot to charge the battery and that finally caught up with us. As always, chp is right on. Check the free stuff first.

[kerlee]

Yup, chp is correct. Probably need to replace batteries, see some of my previous posts on this issue.

[bvaughn]

OK. No lights were lit on the amp at all. I will have to go buy a voltmeter and test the terminal connections. Thanks for the advice so far.

[adwal99]

Any update on this? I too ran into this exact issue last night.

[carcrz]

Sounds like a bad battery or blown fuse.

[bvaughn]

Bumping this old thread because I'm just now getting around to working on this. I replaced the old battery, checked all fuses and when I hooked everything back up, I still had no sound. So I bought a multimeter and checked the voltage to make sure the amp was getting power, and yes it is. It measured 12.5 volts across positive/negative and 12.5 volts across remote and negative - around 8.5 volts between remote and positive. I may have the last two switched up, but I know it is running 12.5 volts across +/-. The amp is getting power. I can even hear some internal sounds coming from the amp - nearly like a cooling fan sound.

My next step is to check the stereo head unit to see if it is actually outputting sound. I'm going to get a spare speaker and try to test it through the back of the head unit.

Any other ideas? If the head unit is producing sound, I guess it isolates the amp as the problem. What then? Pull the amp and take it to a stereo shop and see if it's worth saving?

Thanks!

[chpthril]

Ok, so youve got some kind of noise omitting from the amp chassis. are there any indicator lights illuminating know?

12.5 across the B+ and B- lugs is good, but you have to confirm that there is also 12V on the turn-on terminal. If in doubt, use a fused jumper and go from the turn-on terminal to the B+ lug and see if the amp powers up or any indicator lights come on. You will not get any speaker output until the amp is actually on and in normal mode.

If the amp looks to be powered up and in normal mode, then yes, proceed with an audio source directly to the amp

[jmcclure]

Having exact same issues with Z1 stereo. I have 12v at turn-on terminal and lugs on the AMP. Sounds like the cooling fan is running, but no lights are on at all on the AMP. I have a Clarion stereo that seems to be working. Really don't know how to test to make sure stereo head unit is outputting audio......any suggestions??

[chpthril]

Having exact same issues with Z1 stereo. I have 12v at turn-on terminal and lugs on the AMP. Sounds like the cooling fan is running, but no lights are on at all on the AMP. I have a Clarion stereo that seems to be working. Really don't know how to test to make sure stereo head unit is outputting audio......any suggestions??

If you connect your volt meters NEG lead to the amp's NEG lug and you measure battery voltage on both the POS lug and turn-on lead, then there should be a light illuminated on the amp, indicating its powered up. This light could be either the "normal" light or the "protect" light, but there should be a light. If not, take your meters POS lead and touch both sides of the fuses to see if they all show battery voltage.

If you've never tested a fuse this way, grad a spare and look at the back end (opposite the spades) and you will see to small windows just large enough for the tip of a meter prob. You quickly test to see that the fuse element is is intact, without pulling the fuse.

If the fuses are intact and not lights on the amp, then there is an internal issue.

If you do have the normal mode indicator light on, but no music. If you have a 2nd amp thats working as it should, then with the system off, swap their RCA cables at the back of the head-unit and power back up.

[jmcclure]

Ok,....I have 12v to turn-on, 12v to Pos lug, 12v on both sides of all 3 30amp fuses. No lights are lit up at all on the AMP and still can hear the sound of a cooling fan running inside the AMP. Do I need to test the Head unit or just consider this AMP shot and order a new one?

[chpthril]

With the fan running and no blue "normal mode" indicator illuminated, I would say that the amp has an internal fault. Two last things i would try: A hard restart = disconnect the POS cable, then the GND, wait 10 mins, reconnect the GND then the POS. Then turn the head-unit on. Last, use a 3.5mm x RCA connected directly to the amps RCA inputs to see if if you get output. This is a stretch because that would point to a burned out light on the amp and an issue upstream in the source path.

[jmcclure]

No luck on Hard start....looks like AMP is gone. Boat only has 92hrs 2008. Any suggestions on where to buy Wetsounds syn6?

[chpthril]

Your local authorized Wet Sounds can get you one, but I would start by contacting Wet Sounds direct and see if they can do a B-stock/reman swap.

Other wise, I would go with an HT-6 for the in-boats and an HT-1 for the sub. More power across the board for a little more coin. Or for a little more budget friendly, go with a Kicker CX300.1 for the sub. pretty much the same power as the sub was getting from the Syn-6.