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**Yokes** · 05-30-2013, 04:27 PM

Also my box seems to be undersized aswell. I don't have the exact dimentions but here are a couple pictures.
IMG_4099.jpg
IMG_4102.jpg
IMG_4105.jpg

Would it make much of a difference if the box was larger? The subs right now sound almost like they are open air subs or something. Its hard to explain. Just seems like something is off.

**chpthril** · 05-30-2013, 05:10 PM

You have to major issues. 1) the box is too shallow. No need to get into its net volume, its just too shallow as that woofer motor looks to be right on the back wall. No room to breath, with is how the coil cools. So if you want to retain those 2 woofers, you will need a new enclosure. 2) You have two 4 ohm dvc woofers. This will equal either a 1 ohm load at the amp or a 4 ohm load at the amp. I do not see a 1 ohm output, so i would gather that the amp is not 1 ohm stable. This leaves you to wire the subs to a 4 ohm load. At this configuration, the amp output is only 100Wrms, so each sub is netting 50W.

Its not uncommon for mono amps to actually have dual chnls. This makes driving multiple subs easy to connect to the amp with 4 terminals rather then connecting multiple wires under a single terminal. The load is summed internally. I would bet if you put a meter on those subs, they are wired in series so an 8 ohm load is wired to each terminal pair, resulting in a 4 ohm load seen by the amp.

If you keep those subs, I would look for a full-range class-D 2 chnl that will deliver at least 400-500 watts rms x 1 @ 4 ohm bridged or a mono that will deliver the same or more @ 4 ohm. A new amp and a new box would be a world of difference.

**Yokes** · 05-30-2013, 05:19 PM

Thank you this is exactly what i was afraid of. The previous owner had the system "Professionally installed" and while wiring in my new tower speakers I am finding nothing but issues with the system.

Thanks again as always I appreciate the quick response.

**bryce2320** · 05-30-2013, 08:35 PM

Is ditching those 2 subs and putting 1 sub in a properly built ported box under the helm out of the question?

**Yokes** · 05-31-2013, 01:05 AM

Nothing is out of the question at this point. The only issue I have with ditching is that the area the subs sit in now has nothing behind it it was gutted. I could carpet up the side or something I'm sure without to much difficulty. Other issue is I have a heater and taps pump under the helm I don't think a sub box would fit in there with all that. It's a pretty small compartment. Right now I'm looking around for amps that fit the subs I have. Then coming up with a better box will probably happen after that.

My next problem is I can't fit a fat sac on that side of my motor.

**bryce2320** · 05-31-2013, 01:25 AM

I've got an 04 21i, and I also have a heater under the helm. I moved it up as far as it would go, and ended up getting a 3 cubic foot ported box in there. It does stick out a little further though then the original kick panel. Not being able to put a fat sac there was the first thing I thought about. That would definitely suck. 1 wetsounds XXX in a ported box would trump those 2 little subs in sealed boxes. Figure out which route you want to go, and there's a bunch of knowledge here to help you out a long the way!

**chpthril** · 05-31-2013, 01:26 AM

Bryce brings up an interesting thought. So far, my thoughts have been to how best to make use of what you already have. A single 12" in a sealed enclosure would probably require a gross volume that is a good bit less then what those two 10's ideally need. So doing away with the hole dual-sub and amp setup could make a lot of sense if one is not bound by a super tight budget. You would also need to consider the cosmetics left behind once that old enclosure is pulled.

Going with a single 12" thats a 4 ohm DVC is not a huge investment and a mono amp putting out 400-600 watt RMS @ 2 ohm is not hard to find. Although a pair of 10" subs will have more surface area then a single 12, which equates to more output, but its all out the window if the box is too small and the subs are under powered. On the other hand, s single 12 can dig a little deeper then a 10.

**bryce2320** · 05-31-2013, 01:32 AM

Or hell, just throw one in the walkway like I did lol!

**mdk681** · 05-31-2013, 12:49 PM

Wow, is that a W6 or W7 in the walkway?! Awesome install, that setup has to POUND!

Sorry for going off topic...

But Yokes after seeing your setup in person I think that a single 12" would be the way to go as chpthril suggested. Maybe a free air 12 under the helm in the wall? Depends how loud you want your lows to be. My single 12 that I installed under the helm requires a touch over 1 cubic foot in a sealed enclosure, which is relatively small. It's not gonna blow all other boats out of the water, but you've heard it, it can still pack a punch...

**Yokes** · 05-31-2013, 03:43 PM

So, MDK and I were talking this morning on my issues and this is my current plan. I'm wondering what you guys think.

For the box issue: I took some measurement last night on my current box and the over all cubic ft is pretty close to what it is suppose to be according to the Memphis web site (1.3ft^3). The subs are .097ft^3 and the box is right around 1.6ft^3. So it's really just a depth issue. So we were thinking just cut a ring spacer and space the entire speaker out an inch. There is currectly about 1/4 inch there now. so that would be 1.25in clearance behind the sub. This would be the easiest and simplest way.
Thoughts?? Is this spacer going to affect quality at all. Is there anything i should look out for..

For the Amp. I am currently looking around for a used amp. My buddy has a couple he's not using he is going to look at the specs for me. If that doesn't work my brother-in law sells car audio systems i'll see if he has anything laying around or can find something that will meet my needs. If all that comes up short ill be more willing to scrap what i have and start fresh.

For my ballast issue i'm thinking an aluiminum grill. Not sure what that will run me and scrap the plastic ones i have now. Pretty sure my sub is contacting the grill I have now anyways. This will be the last think i do after i'm sure all else is successful.

I think this will be the easiest and cheapest fix.

**chpthril** · 05-31-2013, 04:43 PM

Whats the condition of that box? That cutout cross section looks like naked MDF and looks swollen. If the box is showing any signs of moisture damage, especially if that box is sitting right on the carpet floor, then no matter what you do, it will never sound good. It will sound kinda sloppy and unresponsive. Next, adding a ring to space out the woofer from the back wall basically puts the woofer basket into a tunnel. This reduces the path of the radiating surface and will effect how the woofer performs. You would want to enlarge the original opening before placing the new spacer baffle board over it.

**bryce2320** · 05-31-2013, 05:18 PM

Originally posted by mdk681 View Post

Wow, is that a W6 or W7 in the walkway?! Awesome install, that setup has to POUND!

There both 13 w7s run off 2 JL 1000/1s. And yea, it gets the job done

didn't mean to high jack :I

**houstonshark** · 06-01-2013, 01:06 AM

It looks kinda like particle board to me Mike.

**Yokes** · 06-01-2013, 03:40 AM

Originally posted by houstonshark View Post

It looks kinda like particle board to me Mike.

MDK and I were looking at the box today and he mentioned that it didn't look like the correct material type and when you knock on it, it doesn't have the dead sound a box should have. Also the design of the box is horrible. It has cracks that aren't sealed and the wires are run through a hole rather then a terminal point on the outside. Also as discussed earlier the depth is to shallow. The only thing that seems to have been right is the cubic feet.
Speaking of depth what do you think the minimum depth should be for this box?

For my amp issue I can get this amp at a reasonable price. Wired in parallel it'll be 1ohm with my subs.
http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/produ...?itemid=262191
Also I think it will fit in the same location as my current amp and be able to use the same power cables.

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