stereo upgrade help

[kmkramer71]

It has been a while since I've done my own stereo gear (car audio). I really want to start updating my 05 22v stereo speakers and amp. I'm not looking for supplying the cove with audio, just nice clean sound and upgraded tower setup. I'd like to stay around $1500 if possible.

head unit: Clarion CMD4 (no change here for starters)

rears: Kicker KS series (2 pair of components)
front: Kicker KS series (1 pair of components)
tower: some sort of KS component thing (1 pair)
sub: Kicker 10" free air

AMPS: 700.5 (powers the sub, front and rears)
100.2 (powers the tower speakers)

researching the amps, these are not ideal. I think I should start here. I'd like to stick with a 2 amp setup. I was looking at the JL M600/6 to replace the 700.5. I'm keeping my eye out for a complete rework of the towers. Maybe finding a 4 speaker set on ebay and powering with a KZ-M350.2 or similar.

[chpthril]

Km,

IIRC, the OEM tower setup wold have been Kicker KS series 6" with a 1" remote tweeter. And I think the pods where made by Skylon.

The KX 700.5 amp is actually a perfect amp for your 6 in-boats and sub. We still use that same basic amp today, although its had a couple of refinements over the years and is currently the ZXM700.5. It has an available 420W rms on chnl 5 for 2 ohm sub, which is what you have and is going to be a hurdle for an amp like the 6 chnl JL.

You will not be able to run that sub bridged on that M600/6. You could run each 4 ohm voice coil of the sub to its own chnl, but that would equal only 150W rms total to the sub. Thats a hell of a degrade from the 420W its currently getting. Now, the one advantage of an amp like the JL is its small size and its Class-D efficiency. If you want to upgrade to a more efficient amp with similar power to that of your current 700.5, then I would suggest the new Kicker marine KXM800.5 (if its out yet) or the Kicker IX1000.5. Another option would be the Arc XDi805 5 chnl or the JL 700/5. All of the options will offer similar power to the in-boats and sub, although the JL delivers 300w rms @ 2 ohm where as the others are 400W +. Being a 5 chnl with a dedicated sub chnl, no need to bridge a pair of full-range chnls and they are designed to run the 2 ohm load of your current sub.

And easy sub upgrade would be to build an enclosure for it. Its not a true IB sub, although it works OK as one. But placing an enclosure behind it will improve its performance.

If the in-boat amp, speakers and sub are all in good working condition, then you could keep them intact and focus more of your budget to a tower setup.

[kmkramer71]

I guess that is my confusion. The in-boats are rated for 6-75w RMS, so your right that the 700.5 is good for the in boats. The sub is rated for 300w RMS@4ohm, so isn't 210w a little low? I guess I need to pull it and see how it is wired. I assume the 4 cabin component pairs are wired in parallel to maintain the 4ohm load across 2 pair. I read the min enclosure volume is .8 and the max is 3. I guess a 1-1.5 would be fine. It would be under the console so I don't want it too big.

I've keeping my eye out for some decent Wetsounds on ebay but also like the look of the 2 pair Kicker setups also. CS series in the Liquid Audio enclosures then I could get a ZXM450.2 for them it.

[chpthril]

The Kicker CVR104 is what was used as the OEM sub in 05. Its a dual 4 ohm voice coil that was wired in parallel so the sees a 2 ohm load. This nets 420W rms to the sub.

The in-boat speakers are wired as fallows: port bow wired to amp chnl 1, stbd bow wired to chnl 2, port side mid and aft speakers wired in paralell (2 ohm load at the amp) and wired on chnl 3 and stbd mid and aft wired in parallel on chnl 4.

On that boat, you should be able to back load a 1.0 ft3 enclosure through the bow access. Mock it up with cardboard to make sure it fits first. Once ready, pull the sub, cut out the carpet on the back side of the wall to the footprint of the box, add a bead of sealer around the hole then mount up the box. Use screws from the front to secure the box to the wall. Place the screws within the diameter of the sub basket and alternating with the screws that mount the sub. Wire sub back up and remount the sub, re-tune the amp and yur done.

[skippabcool]

I am not going for the loudest setup but wanted a nice system for little money. I have the Kicker 700.5 and the 350.4 for amps that came stock. I changed out the tower speakers for a set of used PRO60's that I bought from another TO that upgraded to the Rev's. From there I rewired the amps with the correct wire and ran the RCA's the correct way. From there I had a pretty loud and nice system. I then added a Kicker zone controller since it was too loud for the in boats so we wanted to be able to have the tower louder for the rider and lower the in boats. I just purchased a Kicker L3 12" that should be here this week and going to build an enclosure for it.

I was guided a lot buy Chpthril and have bought some supplies from him, he is great help all around.

For me I think one of the other big improvements was adding a FAE. Then tuning and powering the system correctly. Adding the PRO60's was a huge improvement over the factory ones. IMO. I have several buddies that have stock systems and think that I have spent a ton on upgrading the stereo. I haven't.

[RileyDog]

Hey Skippa!,

I agree with you. Chptril is awesome! Super knowledgable and very helpful. My question to you (and him): is it necessary to have marine grade amps and/or subs?

What do you guys think about the powered sub enclosures? Is there a substantial sound quality loss by having an enclosed box mounted inside the port locker? Or would it be ok to have something like a WS HT AS 10 or even a non marine RF P300-12 which is a 12", Class D amp with 300W rms.

Also, what is an FAE?

[chpthril]

Riley,

Although marine built components offer an advantage, they are not always a have-to in a freshwater trailer boat. We frequently use non-marine amps and subs because. Even with marine amps, they are not waterproof, so many of the same install precautions need to be fallowed.

Yes, there is a huge decrease in perceived output when a sub is placed into a closed locker.

The R/F P300-12 is made form 5/8 MDF. Its naked wood covered in vinyl. It will begin to absorb moisture almost immediately, but this will not be detected for a season or two. Then the sub will start to sound muddy and weak because its leaking, soft ans swollen. The HT-AS10 is an all fiberglass sealed enclosure and will last in a boat.

FAE: Fresh Air Exhaust

[coojac]

I am not going for the loudest setup but wanted a nice system for little money. I have the Kicker 700.5 and the 350.4 for amps that came stock. I changed out the tower speakers for a set of used PRO60's that I bought from another TO that upgraded to the Rev's. From there I rewired the amps with the correct wire and ran the RCA's the correct way. From there I had a pretty loud and nice system. I then added a Kicker zone controller since it was too loud for the in boats so we wanted to be able to have the tower louder for the rider and lower the in boats. I just purchased a Kicker L3 12" that should be here this week and going to build an enclosure for it.

I was guided a lot buy Chpthril and have bought some supplies from him, he is great help all around.

For me I think one of the other big improvements was adding a FAE. Then tuning and powering the system correctly. Adding the PRO60's was a huge improvement over the factory ones. IMO. I have several buddies that have stock systems and think that I have spent a ton on upgrading the stereo. I haven't.

Hey skippabcool - How do you like those Pro 60's? I am looking at replacing two Tantrum Rev's with the 60's or maybe 80's. I am just curius, I don't need the loudest or best stereo, but I want one that sounds great. My current set up works well, but better tower speakers are in my plans. Currently pushing the tower speakers with an Alpine PDX 5 amp. If anyone else has any insight or can compare the Tantrum's to WetSounds, please say so or PM me if you don't want to drag this forum out. Thanks. JC

[Lewisville]

I also have an 05 22v, but my stock system was all Clarion? I'm working on adding the new Clarion 1000watt amp and a 10"Clarion sub, but not sure where or how to install the sub since I have never had one in the boat. My original thought was to put it in the locker in front of the driver seat or mount it in the wall under the driver side dash. Would mounting it on that carpeted wall facing the drivers feet be a bad idea? What do you guys suggest?

[chpthril]

Hey skippabcool - How do you like those Pro 60's? I am looking at replacing two Tantrum Rev's with the 60's or maybe 80's. I am just curius, I don't need the loudest or best stereo, but I want one that sounds great. My current set up works well, but better tower speakers are in my plans. Currently pushing the tower speakers with an Alpine PDX 5 amp. If anyone else has any insight or can compare the Tantrum's to WetSounds, please say so or PM me if you don't want to drag this forum out. Thanks. JC

Your Tantrum Rev's are a 6.5" coaxial setup (i believe made by Rockford Fosgate) and the Wet Sounds Pro-60 is a 6.5" Pro-Axial Horn Loaded Compression Driver. These are 2 completely different designs intended for 2 different purposes.

The coaxial is a wide dispersion speaker for near-field sound quality. The Pro-60 has a horn loaded compression driver thats intended to project music over a long but narrow distance. So in a nut shell, theres not real way to fairly compare them. If you are into the surf/party cove listening, then stick with a coaxial. If you are more into wake-boarding and thats where you want to get the music to, then look into an HLCD. If you the best of both worlds, then look into larger HLCD's Like the Wet Sounds Rev-8 or Rev-10. The added surface area, aso compared to the Pro-60, will yield a better compromise of both near-field balance and warmth as well as the long range projection. Another option is the Kicker KM6500.2 6-Pack. Its a component type HLCD setup, so the extra surface area adds to the mid-bass output, especially with the added pair of mid-bass drivers.

[chpthril]

I also have an 05 22v, but my stock system was all Clarion? I'm working on adding the new Clarion 1000watt amp and a 10"Clarion sub, but not sure where or how to install the sub since I have never had one in the boat. My original thought was to put it in the locker in front of the driver seat or mount it in the wall under the driver side dash. Would mounting it on that carpeted wall facing the drivers feet be a bad idea? What do you guys suggest?

The under-helm wall of your 22V is the absolute best location to place the sub. That boat lends itself to a number of sub options. Firing right out into the main cabin is ideal.

[kmkramer71]

I have a ballast box in front of my helm just behind the current sub. So I think I'm going to focus on towers first.

[Duncan]

The coaxial is a wide dispersion speaker for near-field sound quality. The Pro-60 has a horn loaded compression driver thats intended to project music over a long but narrow distance. So in a nut shell, theres not real way to fairly compare them. If you are into the surf/party cove listening, then stick with a coaxial. If you are more into wake-boarding and thats where you want to get the music to, then look into an HLCD. If you the best of both worlds, then look into larger HLCD's Like the Wet Sounds Rev-8 or Rev-10. The added surface area, aso compared to the Pro-60, will yield a better compromise of both near-field balance and warmth as well as the long range projection.

I have a Double Up (Pro60s, MB8) for sale relatively cheap, which is the best of both worlds. But unfortunately, they are X-mounts (for Alpha Z or Malibu whatever tower).

[chpthril]

I have a Double Up (Pro60s, MB8) for sale relatively cheap, which is the best of both worlds. But unfortunately, they are X-mounts (for Alpha Z or Malibu whatever tower).

Universal tube clamps and connector kits are available from Wet Sounds for them, for those interested.

[Lewisville]

Chpthrl, so I should cut a hole in the wall in front of the drivers feet and mount the sub facing towards the driver? Does anyone know of a good how to with some pictures? I have 0 experience or mechanical/electrical talent. For example, I shocked the crap out of myself trying to ground a 2 to 3prong adapter last week. Am I going to need to waterproof/cover the back of the sub in the compartment to protect it when I take a wave over the nose?

Chpthrl I wish you lived in Texas so I could buy you a beer for all this help!