Stereo setup help

[Yokes]

Current setup:

Amp: 600watt thunder marine mtx audio
Subs: x2 mephis subs 10" (also has a compositor wired in)

Amp2: 900watt thunder marine mtx audio
Boat speakers: x6 speakers unknown mix/matched

Remote: x2 kca-rc50mr remote

Deck: Kenwood KDC-232MR

What I'd like to do is change out the deck because it only has one set of RCA outs so everything can only be at the same volume lvl. I'd like to find a deck that my remote will still work with buy it has flying leads on the end and the Kenwood dealer near me said they don't sell a deck that would work with it. Does anyone know of an older model that would work and has multiple RCA outs? So I can try to find it on eBay or something.

Also I'd like to add some rev 8's and for that ill need another amp.
For the amp I saw this in one of the other forms.
http://www.tigeowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=19213
If I did buy a syn6 would it be possible to eliminate one of my other amps? Just to save room? my compartment is filling up fast.

[chpthril]

Yokes,

No need to ditch the deck, possibly leading to new remotes, just for zone volume control. A device like the Kicker ZXM-RLC Dual Zone controller will give you interdependent volume control over the tower and in-boat speaker, plus its a 9V line level, all with needing only a single set of RCA cables from a head-unit.

Yes, an amp like the Syn-6 could eliminate the need for one of your amps, but we need more details about what you have. If you could provide the actual amp model numbers and if the sub a single 4 ohm voice coil, dual 2, 4 or 8. This makes it easier to outline the possible configurations.

[Yokes]

So I bought a pair of rev10s and the ZXM-RLC Dual Zone controller. For the amp to power my speakers should I use a syn4? And what gauge wire should I run to them?

[bryce2320]

I run a syn4 to each pair of mine. They get 400 watts RMS each and sounds great. I'd run 0 gauge to a distribution block, then 4 gauge to the amps.

[chpthril]

Yokes,

At a minimum, I would suggest 300W rms to each from an amp like the Wet Sounds HT-4 run in 2 chnl mode. Next would be the Syn-4, which will deliver 400W rms to each in 2 chnl mode. Up next, would be the SD-2. This full-range class-d 2 chnl amp will deliver 400W rms to each, with a single pair, and allow for expansion to a 2nd pair and still deliver 310W rms to all 4. The real advantage is that it will deliver the same 400W to a single pair as the Syn-4, yet its running with a 4 ohm load per chnl, where as the Syn-4 is running 2 ohm p/chnl when bridged. The SD-2 will be running at a real comfortable pace.

Outside of the WS lineup, look at the JL 750/1, Acr KS-300.4 or KS-600.2

14ga speaker wire minimum, 12ga if you have room to fish it through the tower and deck.

[Yokes]

Besides 4ga and 12ga is there anything else I will need? I'm guessing the amp has built in fuses? I'm getting the syn4 to power the speakers.

Thanks for all the help!

[chpthril]

The Syn-4 has internal fusing to protect itself, but all amp cabling needs some form of circuit protection as it leaves the battery. Im a fan of breakers on boat like Tiges where the batteries are in the bilge area.

[Yokes]

Syn4 Setup

Looking for some advice on setting up these new Rev 10s. I'm not sure what the frequency setting should be for the front/back.

For the gains I'm pretty sure I can get my hands on a oscope. Would there be any problems increasing the gains till it clips then backing the off a little?

I'm running the syn4 rev 10's.

[chpthril]

For both front and rear:
Hi-Pass
L+R MONO
80 Hz
2 chnl ( not 2 chnl BB)

Yes, set the gains pre-clip, then listen to some good clean music and dial back if needed.

[Yokes]

Thanks!
Just to further my education how did you come to the conclusion of 80hz?

[chpthril]

Its a matter of the size of the driver and the frequency range its designed to operate in. larger speakers will naturally reproduce lower notes. The Rev-10 is a high performance, high output HLCD with a 10" mid-bass driver and 80hz is in the middle of the mid-bass range.

[Yokes]

Alright I have a new issue.
I seem to have some feedback/noise in my speaker when the motor is running. The more RPMs the louder/higher pitch it sounds. I hear it most when I'm not playing any music, but most likely that's due to there not being anything to over power it. I always use to think it was the motor itself but when I was setting up my speakers with the o-scope I realized its coming from the speakers.
Do you think this could be due to the RCA cables, the deck, or the speaker wire itself? Looking for some direction to help trouble shoot this problem.

Second Question.
My rev 10s have a "speaker" smell that comes out of them when I blast them at full volume. I set them up with the scope so I know they aren't clipping. Is this just the speakers breaking in or am I damaging them some how? I had ran them for maybe an hour or 2 off and on over the last month with gains all the way down and volume at about 12, before blasting them full blast right upto clipping level today. I noticed the smell when my boat wasn't running so I don't think these 2 items are related, but I could be wrong.

Edit: added some more details.

[Yokes]

So i solved the noise issue by adding a second ground loop inline with the RCA cables. So there is one going directly into each amp (inboat and tower speakers).

I'm thinking for the rev10 smell i just need to let them break in more before i open them up. As long as the volume is less then max they seem to be fine and are ridiculously loud anyways. If you have any other ideas please share.

[chpthril]

Yokes,

The smell from the tower speakers is not due to the need to break in. They are getting too warm, this is not good. Sounds like a tuning issue.

You can ditch the ground loops, they are a band-aid for other issues. The noise/feed-back when the engine is running: where did you wire the ZXM-RLC's B+ and GND? Also, where is the head-unit itself wired to? 2nd, the ZXM-RLC is a 9V line driver, so getting the amp gains too high is easy. This can also be a source of unwanted noise.