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    Upgrade Time! Opinions?

    Gotta love Spring! It's time to install a system in the boat, and I have been reading in this forum a lot. I have a few questions on anyone's opinion.

    1. Tower - I am going with the Icon 8's as I primarily surf and they have been highly touted on here. My question is, will I be happy with a single pair, and add a second later, or should I go ahead and spring for 2 pairs. how much of a difference does it make?

    2. Sub - I am debating between the XS10-FA and the XS12. I would hate to end up ripping it out again next year just to install the 12 instead. Any opinions on the free air sub?

    3. Amp - Is the Syn6 the way to go if I want to power two sets of Icon8's and one of those subs?

    4. Cosmetic - Anyone seen a pair of white tower speakers on a grey tower? How does it look? I like to be different

    #2
    can't speak to the difference between 1 set and 2, but I popped for 2 sets up front. they look great and sounded amazing. all we do is surf and at chp's recommendation, he was spot on..
    I used 2 amps from arc audio. so far, am very impressed. I'm sure he can talk the difference between them, but I don't think you can go wrong with either brand
    2012 22ve.. RIP 4/17
    2014 Z3.. Surf away

    Comment


      #3
      1) Powered properly, i think most people are pleased with a single pair of icon-8's. Adding a second pair, will basically double the out-put. If you are even thinking of adding a 2nd pair later, then make an amp selection now, that will allow for the expansion later. A 2 chnl is the way to go.

      2) For the most part, people fall into two groups....those that are happy with a well rounded, well balanced system and a moderately powered 10" is all thats needed. The others fall into the bass-head category. They want very strong bass, so a hi powered 10 or larger, in an enclosure is what the need.

      If executed correctly, an infinite-baffle sub, like the XS-10fa, is a good sounding sub. It usually gets a bad rap due to a number of things: wrong sub used, poor powering/tuning or incorrect application. In order to do an infinite-baffle sub, there has to be 100% front/rear isolation, which most Tiges offer this under the helm. Here is a check list to see if you are a good candidate for an infinite-baffle:
      *Dont need to ripple water or kill fish
      *boat allows for complete front/rear acoustical isolation
      *boat will not allow a insouciant enclosure without some extensive modification
      I do not feel up to tacking an enclosure or I do not want to budget for a custom enclosure to be built.

      At the end of the day, a sub in an enclosure will always trump an infinite-baffle sub in terms of output. So if your boat and budget will allow for an enclosure, then I would suggest it. Even if its a moderately powered 10" or a 12" pushed pretty hard. When going the enclosure route, 90% of the time, the boat will dictate the enclosures gross volume and shape, which intern dictates the sub, and finally the amp we drive it with. So before choosing any route, weigh all the options, including a basic box plan.

      3) In 3 chnl mode, the Syn-6 will deliver 200W rms to a pair of tower speakers and 600W rms to a 4 ohm sub. If you do not already have a Syn-6 in the boat, then I would explore other amp options out of the Wet Sounds stable, simply from an efficiency standpoint. I would also leave amp choices to later, once the tower, sub and in-boat speakers are determined. The end results are always easier and better if you choose amps for the speakers, rather then choose speakers for the amps.
      Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

      Comment


        #4
        I've redone my system twice, because I didn't really know what I was doing and was trying to save a buck or two. I went with 1 pair if rev 10s which get loud and sound great. But I'm already adding another pair. I've had a free air sub for starters and quickly went with a bigger n better sub. I definitely fall into the bass head category tho and I wasn't scared to cut a hole in my helm wall for a box. If it was a 2012, I would have been more nervous just go with what will make you happy the first time, because doing it twice isn't very fun, and costs more money. Keep us posted what u go with!
        Ain't no 1/2 steppin'

        Comment


          #5
          Thanks guys. My intention was to plan for an amp that will drive both sets of tower speakers regardless of whether I get them now or not. I know I will down the road so I'm with you there.

          I'm not really a bass-head, and yes the boat is new enough that I'm nervous about cutting too much, so I was hoping I'd be happy with the XS10FA. But I noticed on the B-Stock page it's only another 15 dollars for the XS12..... So debating whether I shouldn't tackle the box now.

          I'm going to take a closer look at the boat this weekend and plan things out more based on that. CHP I've seen on other posts where you prefer to have a seperate AMP for the sub versus the tower speakers. If I were to plan for 2 pair Icon8's and a XS10FA, what would be the ideal Amp choice(s) for that setup? and would it be different for the XS12? Is the Syn6 still overkill for all that?

          Comment


            #6
            Road,

            One of the main reasons I like having the towers on a different amp from the sub, is because most, like i, feel the sub is part of the in-boat zone. Most people like to have the sub volume either tied to the in-boat speaker volume or to go with independent volume control for all zones. When driving the sub and in-boats on the same, amp, we can use a single set of RCA cable to signal all chnls, so no splitting the RCA signal. Then have the tower amp with its own set of RCA cables. At the head-unit, we use the front and rear RCA outputs to the amp. Then the Fade can be used to balance the volume between the tower and in-boat zones. Now, if a zone volume controller is used, then it doesn't matter as long as we are driving the towers and sub with the right amp.

            Syn-2 or HT-2 for 2 pair of Icon-8

            Syn-Micro or HT-1 for an XS-10FA or HT-2 for XS-12

            If you want to power your 4 in-boat also, then go with a HT-6 for the in-boats and XS-10fa (awesome setup, by the way)

            or Syn-4 for the 4 in-boats and XS-10fa or XS-12 (or SS-10 as another option). Done this one a few times!

            Or HT-4 for just the in-boats and then the HT-2 for the XS-12.
            Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

            Comment


              #7
              Ahhh. makes perfect sense. I forgot to mention I was debating on the controller as well but leaning toward it. I think it would definitely be beneficial for me to have zone control. Plus who doesn't want a PA on their boat?

              Thanks so much for the option list. that is great info!

              Comment


                #8
                You will definitely need to amp the in-boats to take full advantage of zone control. Plus, you will really want some power behind them so they can keep pace with the sub.
                Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

                Comment


                  #9
                  White speakers on a grey tower? Personally, I like contrast on the tower just as long as the speaker pod finish is cordinated with a hull of the same color or strong hull graphics of the same color.
                  Syn6? Nope. You could run four Icon8s with a Syn6 channels 1 thru 4 but the power per speaker will be just too be lite in any configuration. Running one pair would be ideal but the expansion option isn't a good one.
                  A Syn2 offers similar power with one pair of Icon8s, which is great, but also offers the ideal power for two pair if and when you expand.
                  A Syn4 can run a variety of 4-ohm subwoofers bridged and simultaneously drive four in-boat coaxials.
                  The price of the Syn2 and Syn4 combo isn't that much more than a single Syn6 but the flexibility, overall power, and efficiency is a giant gain.
                  Versus one pair of Icon8s, two pair of Icon8s with nearly double the power is very close to a perceived doubling of volume. That would appear obvious enough but is actually a very big leap. If you choose the right amplifier and heavy enough tower harness, a later add-on will be a walk in the park.
                  An infinite baffle (free-air) is just as demanding of a rigid baffle as an enclosed woofer. The factory panel needs to be re-inforced. If you can sit back, place your heel against the panel, and flex it to any degree, it's not solid enough. If you take the right execution steps you can get a true infinite baffle to perform very well within output limitations. Having said that, I would rather have a 12-inch in an enclosure. I'm not a basshead but I really like a subwoofer that shows no signs of stress when pushed a little. The subwoofer that operates the most conservatively always sounds the most musical.

                  David
                  www.earmarkmarine.com

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Thanks for the info David. Did a little survey this weekend before I plan this out and it turns out there is a SYN Micro in the stock system powering the in boat speakers.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Syn Micro is good power for 2 pair of in-boats or a 10Fa.
                      Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by chpthril View Post
                        1)

                        2) For the most part, people fall into two groups....those that are happy with a well rounded, well balanced system and a moderately powered 10" is all thats needed. The others fall into the bass-head category. They want very strong bass, so a hi powered 10 or larger, in an enclosure is what the need.
                        There is a third group of people you know.

                        Comment

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