Miscell Stereo Q's

[Dave K]

The total of the fuses in my 3 amps is 160 amps. I have a ANL fuse holder and I was wanting to ask if I can use a 150 amp fuse in it? the next size up that I can find locally is 200, but is 200 amp too big?? I guess the ideal size is 175?

Or would a 175 amp resettable breaker be better?

[chpthril]

The total of the fuses in my 3 amps is 160 amps. I have a ANL fuse holder and I was wanting to ask if I can use a 150 amp fuse in it? the next size up that I can find locally is 200, but is 200 amp too big?? I guess the ideal size is 175?

Or would a 175 amp resettable breaker be better?

A 150 amp or breaker will be more then plenty to carry the load of those 3 amps. The trick is to use a fuse size that does not exceed the carrying capacity of the cable.

[Dave K]

according to the distributor the 1/0 power wire I have is Capable of loads over 300A

Would this mean I could use a 250 amp fuse also?

[chpthril]

according to the distributor the 1/0 power wire I have is Capable of loads over 300A

Would this mean I could use a 250 amp fuse also?

A cables carrying capacity is A = ga x length. And the length includes the ground side as well. So to say 1/0 can carry X amps without factoring the length is kinda misleading. A side from that, there is no advantage at all in fusing over and above the potential load, so there is no need to use a fuse anywhere close to 250, since the 3 amps combined have a potential max of 160A

[chpthril]

according to the distributor the 1/0 power wire I have is Capable of loads over 300A

Would this mean I could use a 250 amp fuse also?

A cables carrying capacity is A = ga x length. And the length includes the ground side as well. So to say 1/0 can carry X amps without factoring the length is kinda misleading. A side from that, there is no advantage at all in fusing over and above the potential load, so there is no need to use a fuse anywhere close to 250, since the 3 amps combined have a potential max of 160A

[Dave K]

After connecting the 3 batteries together "+" together and the "-" together, is it better to connect the 1/0 cable to the middle or end battery or does it really matter?

[chpthril]

It doesnt matter in your setup.

[Dave K]

HT-4 and 1 pr Rev 10's

Is it better to wire up speakers just to ch 1 and ch 2
or this way?
1.






2.rev10 wiring_2.jpg

[chpthril]

The difference is 190W rms to each speaker. In stereo mode (one speaker per chnl) each chnls output is its 4 ohm rms, with is 110W with the HT-4. With the HT-4 in 2 chnl mode (each speaker bridged and using 2 chnls) the output is = to each chnls 2 ohm output x 2, which = 300W rms to each speaker.

Running the HT-4 in 2 chnl mode better matches the Rev-10's rms.

[Dave K]

The second wiring scheme will give me the 300 watts per speaker...correct?

[chpthril]

Yes, wire like pic #2

[Dave K]

Ipod cable1.jpg

I had purchased one of these cables hoping would be able to charge my ipod touch and play at the same time. It would seem that it is NOT compatible with a 4 gen I Touch. I have looked around the web and can't seem to find one.

Does anyone know where I can get one or do they even make them for a newer I touch Ipod??

[Dave K]

I have a WS-420 mounted at the driver consol. 3 battery bank system independent from engine. I have read a fair bit on the site and I have been doing some tuning as per set up instruction with the 420, but I am swinging by the stereo shop tomorrow to fine tune.

2 issues though,

- A pop in the Sub when I switch the power on supply the WS 420, not noticeable when turning off,
- a hissing sound from the rev 10's when system is on. This is noticeable when the tower volume is turned right down.

I have the + and - power wires for the WS 420 connected up to the distribution blocks which is rather close to the amp rack. The distribution blocks are about 3 ft from the ANL fuse and the batteries. Should I have taken those power wires directly to the batteries? Could this cause a bit of hiss? Or more is it more than likely just the gains that need to be fine tuned?

In regards to the pop from the sub when I turn on, could that also be because the WS 420 isn't wired directly to one of the batteries?

[Dave K]

Dave calling Chpthrl....come in Chpthrl...

Hey Mike, You have helped me out so huge, I figured I'd fire off this question, As you know I have a Volume control for the bow speakers. The dash speakers are IMO way to loud. Would it be best to throw another LC1 volume control at the helm, and split the output once again and run a separate RCA to the 2 channels on the HT-6 designated for the dash speakers?? OR just turn the gain all the way down for those 2 channels, and get use to it being a bit loud.

[chpthril]

Here is an excellent wright up that David W/Earmark just posted today on WW about large HLCDs and hiss. I suspect its gain hiss and Davids info explains why you hear it from the tower speakers.

http://www.wakeworld.com/forum/showthread.php?t=798996

I bet if you had the in-boat and tower amp set to full-range, you might hear the same thump from them as you do the sub amp. Its in a range thats being filtered out by the hi-pass setting most likely. I need to look back over your turn-on sequence to refresh my memory, since you are without a head-unit.