kicker 700.5

[KyleRass41]

I have a kx700.5 that starts to shut off after a few hours of sitting. I have it running 6 polks and a 10in kicker sub. Thoughts on helping this out, i think it has smaller gauge wiring if that helps. Or do I need to get a new amp(if I did i'd get the same model, just a new one)

[kx250frider617]

That amp takes 4g wire. If you are playing the stereo loud or it is very hot outside, it will go into protection mode. Itll cool off then turn back on. If thats the case, install same fans to blow air over the amp.

[chpthril]

Here are a few things to check.

1) what is the nominal impedance (ohms) (or model number) of the polk's? We need to make sure we are placing a load on the amp thats below its comfort zone.

2) What is the coil configuration of the sub? If its the OEM sub, its a dual 4 Ohm, so it would be wired in series and be a 2 ohm load on the amp

3) Like kx250 noted, that amp really needs 4 ohm cable. Smaller cable = higher resistance = higher current draw = more heat generated by the amp.

4) Tuning can play a part in how hot an amp gets. High gains on all channels and too low of a cross over point on the full range can tax an amp in a system thats played hard.

It doesnt sound like the amp has an internal problem. It seems to be reacting normal as its going into thermal shutdown after awhile. Yes, a more efficient Class-D may also cure this condition, but lets rule out the usual suspects and try to put some preventative measures in place first.

[KyleRass41]

The polks are the mmc6500. 4ohm it says and they are the sperates with crossover boxes if that helps. I'm pretty sure the wire is not 4 gauge, because its the same one we had to switch out for the harpoon amp to get to 4 gauge.

[KyleRass41]

The sub is the kicker cvr 10

[Timmy!]

My 700.5 will shutoff after extended play times at high volumes because it gets too hot. I'm talking 3/4 volume for 30 minutes + with no airflow. It used to be a lot worse with the 8 gauge that the factory supplied it with, it would do it in about 10 minutes. I upgraded my battery and have a 0 gauge trunk with 12" of 4 gauge to the dist block and that made a world of difference. Just by opening the storage compartment up and letting some air in, it cools it down enough that it doesn't happen but if I leave it closed, it will do it every time.

[shawndoggy]

yeah those amps will get "burn your hand" hot when run hard.

[chpthril]

The polks are the mmc6500. 4ohm it says and they are the sperates with crossover boxes if that helps. I'm pretty sure the wire is not 4 gauge, because its the same one we had to switch out for the harpoon amp to get to 4 gauge.

If its the factory cabling, is 8ga. I would suggest doing as Timmy, and a lot of others have done, and run a trunk line of 1/0 from the battery to the amp area, then 4ga to each amp through a couple of distribution blocks. But since it sounds like you have recently installed another amp and ran a bunch of new 4ga for it, you need to weigh the option of just running another pair of 4 ga from battery to the 700.5. Serves the same purpose, just not as clean as having a trunk line and branches.

Tuning: You need to make sure amp-1 and amp-2 of the 700.5 are set to "Hi=Pass". Then, turn the cross-over frequency to no lower then 100Hz. The gains should not be higher then the 11 oclock position on any of the 3 gain dials.

Next thing to do would be to rewire the 4 main cabin speakers from parallel (2 ohm load at the amp) to series and place an 8 ohm load on the two amp chnls. This will reduce their output a little, but would reduce the load on the amp, thus reducing the heat and less chance of thermal shut-down.

The sub is the kicker cvr 10

Make sure the gain is not above the 11 oclock mark, turn the BASS-Boost off and set the cross-over frequency to 100Hz.

[philwsailz]

Late to the party I see... CHP is dead-on with regards to power wire and control settings. On the power wire, know that BOTH the B+ and the ground wire need to be 4-gage. If you replace the power wire but do not replace the ground you are still current limiting.

KICKER amps get hot, but that is not necessarily an indication that some thing is wrong. The thermal protection circuit kicks in at 185-degrees F, and not before... I share that so you are not alarmed at a hot amp.

Key to long operation is proper settings and proper wiring. I often tell a story abot a major boat builder who constantly complained of overheating amps that shut down too soon. At the same time I constantly complained to them that they were wiring the amps with power and ground wire that was too small. They had tested and determined that the amps didn't need 4ga wire, despite us telling them that was how they should be wired. We went round and round until I was about to buy an airplane ticket to go fly to the plant and help solve the problem. I asked them one more time, firmly to go put the proper sized wire in. *POOF* the overheating quit....

I am not adding much to the conversation that has already been shared, but yeah, make sure you have at least 4ga for both power and ground, consider series wiring for the amp channels where there are two speakers per channel, and verify settings are right.

Phil
Kicker

[Timmy!]

Oh yeah, I forgot to add that I put the 0 gauge in for the ground too. Thanks for covering that guys! Overall, the 700.5 with a CVR 10 is a great sounding combo. You get adequate volume out of the 6.5"'s and depending on the enclosure, some nice boom as well.

[KyleRass41]

Perfect, thanks everyone for the great feedback. This helps out a ton and should be an easy fix!