OHMS

[ST.TIGE]

MORE QUESTIONS!SORRY.ON THE JL AMP THERE IS A SPOT WHERE I CAN PUT 1 SET OF RCAS FROM THE JBL AMP THAT IS RUNNING THE SUB.DO YOU THINK DOING THIS WOULD HELP OR CONTINUE DOING IT THE WAY YOU ALREADY DESCRIBED.ALSO DOES THE + GO ON THE BIGGER TERMINAL ON BAZOOKA 6.5 IN-BOATS?IS THE WIRE WITH THE WHITE LINE + OR -?THANKS FOR ANSWERING ALL MY DUMB QUESTIONS.

[chpthril]

Your head-unit has a front and rear RCA outputs.

You will need to run one set of stereo RCA (2 plugs on each end so its a left and right) to the JL MHD600/4. This will supply signal to the tower setup. I do not believe you will need to split the RCA at the JL in order to drive all chnls, it should pass through. In the JL, I cant recall the exact terminology they use for their RCA plugs, it will either be "Amp-1 L and R" or "Amp-1 and Amp-2" that you need to plug up to.

The next stereo RCA set will need to run to the JBL6004. This amp has "Front L & R" and "Rear L & R". For the in-boats and sub to all receive a signal, I think you will need to split the RCA L and R into four and plug up to all 4 of those amp RCA sockets.

MORE QUESTIONS!SORRY.ON THE JL AMP THERE IS A SPOT WHERE I CAN PUT 1 SET OF RCAS FROM THE JBL AMP THAT IS RUNNING THE SUB.DO YOU THINK DOING THIS WOULD HELP OR CONTINUE DOING IT THE WAY YOU ALREADY DESCRIBED.ALSO DOES THE + GO ON THE BIGGER TERMINAL ON BAZOOKA 6.5 IN-BOATS?IS THE WIRE WITH THE WHITE LINE + OR -?THANKS FOR ANSWERING ALL MY DUMB QUESTIONS.

Yes, you can do this, but, the sub's output will be linked to the volume level of the tower speakers as they will be sharing the same signal from the head-unit.

With the above configuration, the sub's level will be tied to the in-boat speakers. You will have the ability to fade front to rear on the head-unit and bring up or down the volume level of the tower and in-boat zone. Now be aware, that its not true volume control, you are just fading down one zone or the other.

Commonly, the wider terminal on a speaker would be the "+". The wire itself doesn't have polarity until you connect them on one end. Now one wire is the + and the other is the -, so you need to continue this trend on the other end of the wire. The strip, or other markings on one half of a 2-conductor speaker is there simply for aiding and identification.

[ST.TIGE]

ONCE AGAIN,THANKS.WHEN I WENT TO HOOK UP HEAD UNIT THERS A RED,BLACK, AND BROWN WIRE.WHAT IS THE BROMN FOR?

[chpthril]

ONCE AGAIN,THANKS.WHEN I WENT TO HOOK UP HEAD UNIT THERS A RED,BLACK, AND BROWN WIRE.WHAT IS THE BROMN FOR?

Im not sure what the brown is, lemme look into. But here are the 4 you need to use for sure:

Yellow = constant battery +. Needs to be connected to the "C" post fo your battery switch or house battery if an ACR is in your scheme
Red = switch battery + remote turn-on. Can be connected to the ACC terminal of the key switch, an ACC toggle on the helm or paired up with the yellow and use the head-units power button as the ON/OFF
Black = Head-unit ground. Needs to ground at the sam spot as the amps. This can be at the battery, at the distribution block or at one of the amps GND lug.
Lt Blue w/wht strip (may be just Lt Blue)= Remote turn-on for amp. Do not use the dark blue thats designated for power antenna.

[ST.TIGE]

SO UNDER GLOVEBOX FROM BOAT ARE RED,BLACK AND ALSO A TAN WITH YELLOW STRIPE WIRES THAT THE RED AND BLACK CONTINUE TO CIGAR LIGHTER.FROM THE HEAD UNIT THERE ARE RED,BLACK,YELLOW AND THEN THE DARK BLUE BUT STICKER SAYS POWER ANTENNAE/AMPLIFIER THEN ITS SEALED WITH BLACK COATING.DO I JUST GO WITH WHAT YOU HAVE ALREADY STATED?IF SO DO I JUST CAP OFF TAN WITH YELLOW STRIPE WIRE?DO YOU WIRE LOOM POWER AND GROUND WIRE GOING UNDER FLOOR?DO YOU USE ANY ELETRICAL SPRAY ON SPEAKER TERMINALS OR ON THE BATTERY POST?IF SO ANY PREFERENCE?JUST WANT TO DO THINGS RIGHT TO MAKE IT LAST LONGER.THANKS FOR ALL YOUR HELP!!!MUCH MUCH APPRECIATED.

[chpthril]

If the head-unit's wire is labeled as "antenna/Amp", then use it, it will be ok. On some head-units with a dedicated blue power antenna turn-on, it goes cold when turned to CD or AUX and the amps will turn off.

Split-loom adds some protection from chaffing and makes it looks clean where the harness is visible

Any wire ends in the boat's harness that are cut and unused, just cap them with a butt or tape.

battery sealer or a tab of dielectric grease is fine.

[ST.TIGE]

Im not sure what the brown is, lemme look into. But here are the 4 you need to use for sure:

Yellow = constant battery +. Needs to be connected to the "C" post fo your battery switch or house battery if an ACR is in your scheme
Red = switch battery + remote turn-on. Can be connected to the ACC terminal of the key switch, an ACC toggle on the helm or paired up with the yellow and use the head-units power button as the ON/OFF
Black = Head-unit ground. Needs to ground at the sam spot as the amps. This can be at the battery, at the distribution block or at one of the amps GND lug.
Lt Blue w/wht strip (may be just Lt Blue)= Remote turn-on for amp. Do not use the dark blue thats designated for power antenna.

WHAT GAUGE WIRE SHOULD I RUN FOR THE YELLOW WIRE SINCE THE ACR IS INVOLVED?SHOULD I RUN A FUSE FOR IT?WHAT HAPPENS WITH RED WIRE NOW?THANKS FOR ALL YOUR HELP!WHAT DO YOU NORMALLY DO FOR THE HOLES IN THE CUPHOLDERS OVER AMP RACK AND SPEAKERS?I RAN 1/4 INCH TUBING FROM BOTTOM OFF CUPHOLDER OUT THE HOLE IN FLOOR WHERE THE WIRES (POWER AND GROUND) COME OUT OF.IS THIS A BAD IDEA?

[chpthril]

WHAT GAUGE WIRE SHOULD I RUN FOR THE YELLOW WIRE SINCE THE ACR IS INVOLVED

The ACR will determine where some of the audio gear power cables terminate, but not their gauge.

For the head-unit's yellow B+ and BLK ground, I typically use 12ga, but 14ga will be sufficient.

WHAT HAPPENS WITH RED WIRE NOW

The red wire is whats used to actually turn on the head-unit. You can do one of 3 things. In the order of my personal preference: 1) use a simple rocker switch on the helm 2) wire it to the yellow and use the head-units ON/OFF button 3) terminate it to the boats key switch ACC terminal if the switch has the ACC position.

WHAT DO YOU NORMALLY DO FOR THE HOLES IN THE CUPHOLDERS OVER AMP RACK AND SPEAKERS

You do not want water dripping on the gear. You can buy little hose bard nipples that can be sealed to the inside of the cupholder and then place a hose over the barbed end and run it to a bilge access.

[ST.TIGE]

The ACR will determine where some of the audio gear power cables terminate, but not their gauge.

For the head-unit's yellow B+ and BLK ground, I typically use 12ga, but 14ga will be sufficient.



The red wire is whats used to actually turn on the head-unit. You can do one of 3 things. In the order of my personal preference: 1) use a simple rocker switch on the helm 2) wire it to the yellow and use the head-units ON/OFF button 3) terminate it to the boats key switch ACC terminal if the switch has the ACC position.

THE RED FROM THE IGNITION GOES OVER TO THE HEAD UNIT.CAN I USE THIS RED EVEN THOUGH IT IS COMING FROM MY STARTING BATTERY INSTEAD OF HOUSE BATTERY.MY 12 GAUGE YELLOW IS NOW PIGGYBACKED OFF JBL AMP TO HEAD UNIT AND 12 GAUGE BLACK GROUND TO DIST BLOCK.
I LOOKED AT HELM TOGGLES.WAY TO CONFUSING FOR ME. THANKS AGAIN
You do not want water dripping on the gear. You can buy little hose bard nipples that can be sealed to the inside of the cupholder and then place a hose over the barbed end and run it to a bilge access.

THANKS AGAIN

[ST.TIGE]

CAN I USE A RED WIRE THAT COMES OFF STARTING BATTERY FOR MY HEAD UNIT WHEN MY YELLOW WIRE IS COMING OFF JBL AMP WHICH IS COMING OFF OF MY HOUSE BATTERY

[chpthril]

CAN I USE A RED WIRE THAT COMES OFF STARTING BATTERY FOR MY HEAD UNIT

To do what?

[ST.TIGE]

TRYING TO GET HEAD UNIT HOOKED UP.I FOLLOWED THE RED WIRE FROM IGNITION AND IT GOES TO WHERE HEAD UNIT IS.I HAVE THE YELLOW WIRE PIGGYBACKED OFF OF JBL AMP TO YELLOW ON HEAD UNIT.I WAS JUST MAKING SURE I CAN USE THIS ONE BECAUSE IT COMES OFF IGNITION WHICH COMES OFF STARTING BATTERY AND NOT HOUSE BATTERY LIKE AMPS.

[chpthril]

Ok, so im assuming you are asking about using that red wire for the head-unit's turn-on signal. Yes, you can, but there are a couple of things to be aware of.

If the key switch doesnt have an ACC position, then the stereo will only power up when key in the actual RUN position. Leaving the key in the RUN position without the engine running will keep the ECM awake, ignition powered up and maybe the fuel pump running.

If the key switch does have an ACC position, the stereo will power off every time you shut the engine off and power back up as the key rotates to the ACC position. With an MP3 attached, it may take 5-10 seconds for the system reinitialize.

[ST.TIGE]

YES.THE RED WIRE IS ON A TERMINAL WITH ANOTHER RED AND ALSO A LARGER RED WIRE.THE OTHER TERMINAL HAS 2 PURPLE.AND THE LAST TERMINAL HAS A YELLOW WIRE.SORRY TO BE SUCH A PAIN IN THE BUTT AND SO CONFUSING.THIS IS MY FIRST STEREO EXPERIENCETHANKS FOR ALL YOUR HELP.IF I CAN USE THIS RED WIRE I BOUGHT A LITTLE BLUE TOGGLE SWITCH LIKE YOU USED ON ET'S TO PUT IN GLOVE BOX.GOOD OR BAD IDEA?

[chpthril]

YES.THE RED WIRE IS ON A TERMINAL WITH ANOTHER RED AND ALSO A LARGER RED WIRE.THE OTHER TERMINAL HAS 2 PURPLE.AND THE LAST TERMINAL HAS A YELLOW WIRE.SORRY TO BE SUCH A PAIN IN THE BUTT AND SO CONFUSING.THIS IS MY FIRST STEREO EXPERIENCETHANKS FOR ALL YOUR HELP.IF I CAN USE THIS RED WIRE I BOUGHT A LITTLE BLUE TOGGLE SWITCH LIKE YOU USED ON ET'S TO PUT IN GLOVE BOX.GOOD OR BAD IDEA?

Do you have a 12V test light or volt meter? if so, then test that red wire to see exactly what it does. Does your key switch have one position to the counter-clockwise direction from OFF? if so, that would be ACC. If you look close to the back of the switch, you should see the terminals are labeled. From your description, it sound like that red wire is on the RUN terminal and there is no ACC.

Honestly, I would place the toggle switch on the helm. This way, you can easily see the light on indicating the stereo is still on.