What batteries and how to install?

[patryk]

I am doing my stereo this weekend and I need to know what batteries to hook up and how. My R20 came with an interstate deep cycle battery, and I have a switch already installed by no second battery.

My stereo set up is an Alpine PDX5 running 6 interior wetsound 6.5s, and a 12 inch JLw3. I have an Alpine PDX4.150 running two Rev10s on the tower.

So what battery do I get for the stereo and how do I hook it up with the switch? On my last boat I had all the accessories, alternator, stereo, etc hooked up to my switch, and changed it from battery 1 or 2 depending on how long I was running the stereo, then when the boat was running I had it switched to ALL position. I'm reading people running one battery for starting, and 2 bank batteries for stereo, but I don't know how to set that up.

Thanks for the help!

[chpthril]

1) How many (and what type) will depend largely on how the system will be used. a) will you spend a lot of time running it while at anchor. b) Will you have access to a means of shore-charging once off the water?

Wiring the switch is easy: "C" gets the alternator, stereo and other loads except the bilge. "1" goes to your primary starting battery. "2" goes to your soon to be installed house bank.

If going with a 2-battery setup for the house bank, then the 2 batteries need to be wired in parallel. Unless you go with 6V golfcarts, they are a whole different configuration.

Your primary starting only needs to be a group-24 marine starting battery

You cant beat a good old wet cell marine deep-cycle. group-24s are great of space is an issue, but if you have room, 1 or 2 group-29's are great.

AMG (Absorbed Glass Mat) batteries are expensive, but are better suited then wet-cells for heavy cycles. They are also sealed, so they can be mounted in a number of ways. They also need to be maintained better, so a shore charger is a must.

Im not a fan gel batteries that go by the nickname of colored tops. They are expensive and have a low Ah rating compared to other types.

6V golfcart batteries are big, heavy, expensive and are required in multiples of 2.

[patryk]

So on the switch hook everything up like I had on my old boat, and just have the main battery hooked to position 1, and the stereo bank to position 2? So nothing hooked up directly to the batteries correct? Where is the bilge going to then?

I would like to do 2 batteries for the bank then. Any links on which one I should get?

How does a shore charger work too? I keep my boat moored, but I don't recall if there is power there.

[chpthril]

So on the switch hook everything up like I had on my old boat, and just have the main battery hooked to position 1, and the stereo bank to position 2? So nothing hooked up directly to the batteries correct? Where is the bilge going to then?

I would like to do 2 batteries for the bank then. Any links on which one I should get?

How does a shore charger work too? I keep my boat moored, but I don't recall if there is power there.

1) All loads except the bilge will be connected off the "C" post of the switch. This way, your current draw will be coming from which ever battery you have the switch set to. Start and run on "1", anchor on "2". Switch back to "1" to restart, the run on "BOTH" or "2" to replenish the stereo bank.

The bilge needs to be straight wired to the main starting battery

So you want to do a 3 battery setup: 1 for main starting bank and 2 for the stereo bank, right? There's no magic bullet for choosing a battery. All types have their pros and cons, and how many will be determined by their Ah rating and how long you want to run the system with the engine off.

A shore charger is just a marine battery charger that mounts in the boat. Once installed, you just plug it up at the dock, house or storage lot. You need a multi-stage smart charger to properly recharge and maintain the batteries.

[kx250frider617]

I ran my amps straight to the #2 battery. I like the idea of having the easiest path for the electricity. What's the point of going through the switch then the amps if you will always run the stereo on #2 battery. I have never had a problem running this way. I've noticed on big power systems, the switch can cause connection problems and makes the amps go into protection mode when power suddenly drops. That's just my opinion though.

[chpthril]

I ran my amps straight to the #2 battery. I like the idea of having the easiest path for the electricity. What's the point of going through the switch then the amps if you will always run the stereo on #2 battery. I have never had a problem running this way. I've noticed on big power systems, the switch can cause connection problems and makes the amps go into protection mode when power suddenly drops. That's just my opinion though.

With the proper size cabling, quality connections on the cable ends and the right switch, this should not happen. There should not be a voltage drop across the switch. Too small of cabling, depleted batteries or an alt that cant keep up with the demands of the system will cause the amps to drop into protect mode.

[patryk]

Do I need isolators? What is that for?

[patryk]

http://www.solarhome.org/deka12v86am...battery-1.aspx

How is this battery? It's an MK 8A31DT. It seems to have the same specs as the Deka, but less expensive.

[kx250frider617]

With the proper size cabling, quality connections on the cable ends and the right switch, this should not happen. There should not be a voltage drop across the switch. Too small of cabling, depleted batteries or an alt that cant keep up with the demands of the system will cause the amps to drop into protect mode.

Is there a problem doing it the way I have it set up? Or is hooking up everything through the switch just accomplish a cleaner look? My whole concept is the best connection is going straight to the source.