I am not sure if I should run a relay for my remote on lead from the HU. I will be running a JLM6600, Kicker ZXM450, and a WS420. Head unit is a CMD4. Do you think it is necessary to run a relay for this? I was planning on just running the remote on lead to one amp and then running it from there to the next and then again for the 420. I wouldn't think that would draw too much. I have already fished and hung my power wires and really don't want to fish another power and ground for a relay if I don't need to.
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You should be just fine without a relay. But, if you do decide to use one, just grab the ground for the coil (terminal 86)and POS for terminal 30 off one of the amp's POS lug. Just piggy-back with your relay wire at the amp or your Distribution block if you are using one. Relay terminal 87 would go to the amp's remote turn-on terminal and 85 would be the blue wire from the head-unit.Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And More -
Thanks!
I think I will go ahead without and if I have popping or anything I'll go back and install one.
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So started reading a bit more about the kicker ZXM 450 and apparently it has an automatic turn on. From the manual(The auto turn on part is in red):
Automatic Turn-On Selection: The ZXM series offers three different automatic turn-on modes that can be
selected on the end panel; +12V, DC Offset, and Audio. Using either the DC Offset or Audio mode causes the
REM terminal to have +12V out for turning on additional amplifi ers.
• Remote Turn-On: Set the switch to +12V to use the remote turn-on lead from your source unit. Run 18
gauge wire from the Remote Turn-On Lead on your source unit to the terminal labeled REM between the
amplifi er’s positive and negative power terminals. This is the preferred automatic turn-on method.
• DC Offset Turn-On: If Remote Turn-On is not an option, the next best setting is DC Offset. The DC Offset
mode detects a 6V DC offset from the HI-Level speaker outputs when the source unit has been turned on.
• Signal Sense Turn-On: The Audio setting is the fi nal alternative for Automatic turn-on. This is a Signal Sense
turn-on method that detects the incoming audio signal from your source unit and automatically turns on the
amp. This turn-on method will not work properly if the input gain control is not set appropriately.
Edit: Now I just realized, because the Audio turn on mode on the ZXM450 actually sets the REM lug to allow wiring to an additional amp with 12v output. I can just take the REM lead from the HU to the 420. Then just run the ZXM450 in the Audio Signal Sense mode and then run another REM From the ZXM450 to the JLM6600. This way there should only be one draw from the HU to the WS420. The ZXM450 will actually power the REM to the JLM6600. Hopefully this should work out very nice with minimal and cleaner wiring. Do you think this will be a solid set up? The manual says the traditional remote turn on is preferred, but then the entire power draw comes from the HU.Last edited by hossdog; 02-29-2012, 10:07 PM.Comment
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Your best bet is going to be to use the +12V remote turn-on from the head unit as a trigger for the ZXM450.2. Sometimes for whatever reason, we can have just enough noise in a boat stereo that the amplifier will sense it and in effect never shut off. Or if your stereo is off but you hit a light switch or a ballast pump switch sometimes the amp will turn on.Originally posted by hossdog View Post
We will always have our boat builder manufacturers use the +12V trigger, (blue wire) to turn the amps on and off. This is the most reliable, fail-safe way to do it. I recommend to you that you do the same.
Let us know if you have any other questions!
Phil
KickerIt's not an optical illusion.
It just looks like one.....Comment
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Ok that makes sense. Do you think it makes a difference what order I go then? For instance HU to ZXM450 to JLM6600 to WS420. Or HU to WS420 to JLM6600 to ZXM450 or visa versa. Or just split the signal into three?Comment
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They will pretty much turn on at the same time since they are all fed off the same source. I typically just daisy-chain from one amp to the next. Which ever is closest to the H/U, gets the turn-on wire from the head-unit, then piggyback the next wire to the next amp.Mikes Liquid Audio: Knowledge Experience Customer Service you can trust-KICKER WetSounds ACME props FlyHigh Custom Ballast Clarion LiquidLumens LEDs Roswell Wave Deflector And MoreComment
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Just wanted to say thanks to you guys for all the information and help. I got the system installed yesterday and it is LOUD. I ended up with a CMD5 HU, two KMT60s on the tower, 4 WS65s for in boat, free air JLM 10 inch sub woofer, JLM6600 amp powering the sub and in boats, Kicker ZXM40.2 powering the tower, and a WS420 to control everything.
No problems with the remote on powering on all three things whatsoever. I am really impressed with the Kicker amp and Tower Speakers. The KMT60s are way louder than I thought they would be for the price I paid. The WS65s sound really clean. The JLM6600 is an older one, but still works flawlessly and powers everything perfectly.
The 420 is really fun to play with. I am impressed with it as well, the only thing left to do is mount it somewhere. I think I am going to put in a small false wall under the helm to hold a heater vent and support the hot tubes going into the walkway. I might try to integrate a spot for the 420 in whatever contraption I build for that. Anyway thanks again for all the tips.
JoeyComment
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