Wire gauge hookup

[Dave K]

According the the Kickers site:
http://www.kicker.com/power_cable_chart

8 gauge power wire can be used for up to 10-13 ft???


Is this set up going to work?
From batteries with 2.5' ft 4 ga. to distribution block then 2 separate FUSED 4 ga. wire power going to each amp (450.2 and 350.4)?

or

should I use separate power and grd cable from each amp going to batteries.

Do the grnd the same way??

[chpthril]

24V, correct? Are the batteries in the back as they are from the factory or did you or the previous owner install a stereo battery up in the storage area where the amps are going? From your OP, it sounds like the batteries are next to the amps.

1st, I would not use 8ga for those amps, even a short run from a distro-block to the amp. Use 4ga. The cost difference is insignificant.

Since you are starting from scratch, my recommendation would be to run a trunk line from the battery(s) to the amp install area, then distro-block for the branch lines to feed the amps. This is much cleaner, only requires a single circuit protector at the battery (v's 1 on each line if you ran a POS for each amp) and it's much more manageable to attach a single battery lug ot the battery rather then 2 or 3 for each amp.

If the batteries are in the bilge area, I prefer to to use a marine circuit breaker and not a fuse. If the batteries are up in the mid-ship storage, fuses are fine.

For most installs, having a fuse in between the distro-block and amp for each amp is not needed, and here is why. If the system is laid out right, the length of run from the distro-block to the amp is short enough, that is can carry the same load as the long trunk line that is already protected. IF a short were to occur on that line between the distro-block and amp, the trunk line breaker would trip.

As I said, it's not always needed, but doesnt hurt to be there. However, there are times where the individual amp circuit protection is needed: 1) if the amp does not have its own internal fusing. 2) if the amount of fusing on the trunk line, lets say 200A for example, exceeds what the short piece of branch line will carry. Example would be if you had a 3 amp install and you had a small 2 chnl amp powered with 8ga feeding it from the block.

[Dave K]

24V, correct? Are the batteries in the back as they are from the factory or did you or the previous owner install a stereo battery up in the storage area where the amps are going?I'm the first owner. it is a 2006 with 2 batteries at the back. I believe the battery on the port side is a dedicated starting battery. From your OP, it sounds like the batteries are next to the amps. Yes, I am planning on throwing in 2 or 3 with a on-board 2 or 3 bank charger

1st, I would not use 8ga for those amps, even a short run from a distro-block to the amp. Use 4ga. The cost difference is insignificant. Nah I am planning to use the 4 gauge I have. I just though that chart seemed to be pretty liberal for wire gauge size.

Since you are starting from scratch, my recommendation would be to run a trunk line from the battery(s) to the amp install area, then distro-block for the branch lines to feed the amps. SHould I tie in that rear battery at the back to the 3 batteries under the port helm? This is much cleaner, only requires a single circuit protector at the battery (v's 1 on each line if you ran a POS for each amp) and it's much more manageable to attach a single battery lug ot the battery rather then 2 or 3 for each amp.I will have 2 power leads from the battery 1 for the 2 kicker amps and 1 for the Sony sub amp.

If the batteries are in the bilge area, I prefer to to use a marine circuit breaker and not a fuse. If the batteries are up in the mid-ship storage, fuses are fine.

For most installs, having a fuse in between the distro-block and amp for each amp is not needed, and here is why. If the system is laid out right, the length of run from the distro-block to the amp is short enough, that is can carry the same load as the long trunk line that is already protected. IF a short were to occur on that line between the distro-block and amp, the trunk line breaker would trip.

As I said, it's not always needed, but doesnt hurt to be there. However, there are times where the individual amp circuit protection is needed: 1) if the amp does not have its own internal fusing. All 3 amps have fuses in them2) if the amount of fusing on the trunk line, lets say 200A for example, exceeds what the short piece of branch line will carry. Example would be if you had a 3 amp install and you had a small 2 chnl amp powered with 8ga feeding it from the block.

Can you recommend a certain circuit beaker?

So...

1. Is it ok to have 3 batteries to power amps with a 3 bank charger.
2. DO I run a heavy gauge cable back to the rear battery and which one? ie. Heavy 4 gauge (?) from the starboard battery with a 150amp circuit breaker close to the battery. Run those power cables to the 3 batteries in the port side helm. (Would 4 gauge b eneough its a long run)? From batteries run a short 2 1/2ft piece to distribution blocks for both positive and ground. Both Kicker amps have fuses in them already and I believe the Sony amp I have for the sub has a 30 or 40amp fuse.
3. Do I need a 100 amp in-line fuse at the batteries before distribution block correct? The kicker 350.4 has 2-20 amp built in fuses, and the kicker 450.2 has 2-30 amp, so I assume I need at least a 100

If this helps the dicussion,

1. One battery at the back will not start engine when the other battery switch is off. Does this mean that 1 battery is an isolated starting battery only?
2. I am not sure of the alternator size. ( I really dont want to replace)

[chpthril]

1. Is it ok to have 3 batteries to power amps with a 3 bank charger

Perfect!

2. DO I run a heavy gauge cable back to the rear battery and which one? ie. Heavy 4 gauge (?) from the starboard battery with a 150amp circuit breaker close to the battery. Run those power cables to the 3 batteries in the port side helm. (Would 4 gauge b enough its a long run)?

A 3 battery stereo/house bank is a heavy load to place on the alternator if it gets run down. So I would make a couple of suggestions: 1) Easy and least costly would be to leave the stereo bank as a stand-alone bank that only gets charged with shore power back at the dock or home. Down side is, the bank can run down on you at the end of the day depending on how hard the system was played.

2) More expensive and complex route - connect the main battery to one of the batteries in the 3-battery stereo bank so it gets charged by the alternator when the engine is running. The amps will need to also be connected to this same battery so the system gets juice when the engine is running. This is important because this one battery in the 3-battery stereo bank will need to be isolated from the other two when the engine is running. This reduces the shock factor on the alt. next step is, this battery will also need to be isolated from the main battery when the engine is off. This way, the stereo bank doesn't draw off the main when engine is off and the tunes are cranking.

It sounds more complicated then it is. It could be done manually simply with battery switches. It can also be done automatically. let me kick around a couple of ideas on paper.

From batteries run a short 2 1/2ft piece to distribution blocks for both positive and ground. Both Kicker amps have fuses in them already and I believe the Sony amp I have for the sub has a 30 or 40amp fuse.

Am I reading right that the Sony sub amp is already installed and wired, or will it need to be included in the total trunk load.

Since your stereo battery will be in the storage area, you can use a multi-fuse distro-block. Place it within 18" of the battery and it will be your circuit protection and distrobution block all in one.

For the ground side, you will need to make a run from the - side of the battery to a distro-block, then from it to the amps. The ground will need to be the same gauge as the positive. Both need to be appropriate for the loads of the amps.

3. Do I need a 100 amp in-line fuse at the batteries before distribution block correct? The kicker 350.4 has 2-20 amp built in fuses, and the kicker 450.2 has 2-30 amp, so I assume I need at least a 100

For those 2 amps, 100A fuse or breaker will be fine, or a 40A and 60A if you do a fused distro block. There are also a couple models of fused and ground combo blocks.

1. One battery at the back will not start engine when the other battery switch is off. Does this mean that 1 battery is an isolated starting battery only?

If the switch is off, neither will start the engine, but the engine should start with the switch in either 1, 2, or BOTH.

2. I am not sure of the alternator size. ( I really dont want to replace)

probably a 90A. You are a ways off on your system to be needed an alt upgrade. If you do the battery bank right and use the with some discipline, you should be fine.