**My Winter Upgrade Build**

[BPRES]

Hey guys! I've got a few projects in the soon future for my 20V, and to help in my completion & get feedback I am writing this build thread. I won't be able to start work until Dec 16th, but here's my plan & products.

Current Setup
Head unit: Clarion M309
Fronts: Polk Audio MM521
Rear/Middle: MM651UM
Tower: Kicker KMT6
Amp 1: Rockford Fosgate T400-2
Amp 2: Rockford Fosgate T400-4
Equalizer: ESQ746 - Crapped out end of last season!

New Hotness
Equalizer: Wetsounds WS-420
Amp 3: Rockford Fosgate T500-1
Sub: Polk Audio SR124DVC or Rockford T1D212 (or 10" versions of either)
V-drive Fatsac Sacs Set
Misc. Blue LED lighting

Also--I'd like to get a SeaDek pad for the swim platform, but how should I got about that for my boat as its not in the options. I figured someone here had done it.

Cheers & happy holidays! I'll be updating this with photos as progress goes.

[chpthril]

Ive heard a lot of the Clarion EQ's not lasting long in boats. I know they are not a marine component, but they do seem to be highly susceptible to moisture.

In RE to the sub. Where are you going to locate it?

Sealed or vented enclosure?

The R/F T500.1 is only 500 watts RMS (@ 2 or 1 Ohm), but both the 10 and 12 Polk SR subs have a 700 watts RMS rating. So either of these would be underpowered IMO. On the T1D121, Rockford kinda contradicts them selves. They say 800 RMS/1600 Pk, but on their Power Handling color chart, the put the recommended RMS between 250 and 800.

both these subs are big, to put it simply. The R/f 12 has a mounting depth of 6.75" and the Polk 12" is 7.6", that's a lot of mass that will have an effect on box depth as well as the overall dimensions.

So, here is how I would go about it. Answer yourself the questions above. Then see what kinda of gross volume an enclosure will have. Choose a sub that best fits what you have to work with in, then math it up with an amp that will hit it's rec'd RMS or more.

[BPRES]

I've had very good luck powering subs with the RF Power series amps, and believe the output is a little more than 500w. If not, going with the T600-2 wired to 1 ohm should provide s'more power. You're right regarding mass, and I should go with the 10" because I'm wanting to place it under the helm. And my amp on the following side of the wall.

I've got a T600-2 in my car powering a RF T210D2, so I can move that amp to the boat and still buy a new subwoofer.

[ajholt7]

Also--I'd like to get a SeaDek pad for the swim platform, but how should I got about that for my boat as its not in the options. I figured someone here had done it.

I had it done on my 2008 20V. They have the pattern.

[chpthril]

I've had very good luck powering subs with the RF Power series amps, and believe the output is a little more than 500w. If not, going with the T600-2 wired to 1 ohm should provide s'more power. You're right regarding mass, and I should go with the 10" because I'm wanting to place it under the helm. And my amp on the following side of the wall.

I've got a T600-2 in my car powering a RF T210D2, so I can move that amp to the boat and still buy a new subwoofer.

I agree that a lot of quality amps come with a birth cert stating more measured output then their CEA-2006 ratings, but I'm just not a fan of choosing an amp based on power you may or may not get. I like to match the amp and driver based on RMS, then if it produces more, that's just a bonus. Also, most of those specs are at like 13.5V (like with the engine running) and drop off a bit when measured again @ 12.5 (static battery voltage). So if one is not short of the driver's RMS already, it will be even more shy as the battery voltage drops.

Grossly under powering any speaker is not good for it, but under powering a sub a bit is not as noticeable as leaving a set of tower speakers crying for more when you've jammed the volume to max trying to reach the rider. If you are just looking to some good thump to accompany the rest of the system, I think what you have will do that, but I also think one of the other series subs (less expensive and requiring less watts RMS) will do the same on the power you intend to feed it. Up-side is, the Polk would leave you room to upgrade the amp if you wanted more output. The Rockfords, i'm not sure, but I think you could do a good 800-1000 watts rms to it.

The T600.2 is 1 Ohm x 2 stable, meaning you can bridge a 2 Ohm load, but cant run a 1 Ohm load bridged. So if you go with a 2 Ohm DVC sub, just wire each 2 Ohm coil to it's own chnl. This will give you the same 600 watts RMS, which is the amp's max.

Good luck with the winter project, keep the forum updated.

[tnvolgrad]

Has anyone acutally installed the Sea Deck product? Thanks for the pics - looks great and now I am going to purchase. My main concern is getting the old off - the hard "t" factory mat is the worst for the kids.

Also - anyone put an aftermarket on an RZ2; pictures would be great.

[ajholt7]

Has anyone acutally installed the Sea Deck product? Thanks for the pics - looks great and now I am going to purchase. My main concern is getting the old off - the hard "t" factory mat is the worst for the kids.

Also - anyone put an aftermarket on an RZ2; pictures would be great.

My factory one pulled off pretty easy. Clean the glue off with some acetone. Install the new one. It is a pretty simple upgrade and well worth it.

[Duncan]

My factory one pulled off pretty easy. Clean the glue off with some acetone. Install the new one. It is a pretty simple upgrade and well worth it.

I seem to recall someone on TO replaced the stock swim platform pad with a one piece SeaDek pad (rather than a two piece). Does this ruing any bells?

[dingleberry]

I seem to recall someone on TO replaced the stock swim platform pad with a one piece SeaDek pad (rather than a two piece). Does this ruing any bells?

Here ya go...time for a little Marley!

http://www.tigeowners.com/forum/show...=seadek+custom

[BPRES]

Mike, I will go with the Polk. Do you have a recommendation for an amp you'd pair with it?

Also - I appreciate the SeaDek info & photos!

I'll be starting on the boat next weekend

[chpthril]

Mike, I will go with the Polk. Do you have a recommendation for an amp you'd pair with it?

Also - I appreciate the SeaDek info & photos!

I'll be starting on the boat next weekend

Keeping in the Polk line, the PA1200.1 will give you 800 watts RMS @ 2 ohm

In alphabetical order:
Alpine PDX-M12 or MRP-M1000
Exile Xi1500.1 (i think its about 1000 @ 2 Ohm)
Kicker IX1000.1 or ZX1000.1
Rockford T1000 1000 watts @ 2 Ohm.
Wet Sounds Syn1 = 1000 @ 2 Ohm