2008 22ve Stock Audio Maintenance

[Justinkent83]

Can anyone tell me what the 2008 22ve came equipped with stock? From a visual inspection it looks like the speakers (6 of them) are wetsounds. The sub is a JL Audio. The only Amp is a Kicker ZX700.5.

I just purchased this boat and I'm working and restoring the audio. The sub seems ok? But both bow speakers I believe are blown. One of the rear speakers didn't work, but I found it was just disconnected. Sounds ok now that the connection is restored. The wiring exists for a couple of tower speakers but I was told they were blown by the previous owner and this removed. The wire is still at the top of the tower.

I would like to replace the blown speakers in the bow and tune the Amp to play as loud as is safe for the speakers. Without knowing the specs of the speakers, this is difficult.

I have worked out that the 2 bow speakers are on amp1 while the 4 rears are on amp 2. I'm not sure how everything is wired yet. I assume each channel of the rear Amp is has 2 speakers in series but I haven't confirmed that.

Any help you guys can provide regarding speaker modesl or wiring is greatlyappreciated!

.

[Justinkent83]

Unless Amp 1 and Amp 2 each have 4 channels *shrug*

[Justinkent83]

After some additional digging. It could be possible these are 4 ohm speakers and each channel on amp2 has two 4 ohm Speakers wired in parallel. That would make the amplifier output 2ohm I think. Which would be 85 watts per channel (42.5 watts per speaker) on a 60 watt rms speaker. Does that track at all?

[chpthril]

The JL woofer is not factory. if its a JL 10" marine woofer, its likely a 4 ohm, thus getting half of what the amp is capable of. The factory woofer may have still been the Kicker CompVR104 but could have been XS-10FAD4

The OEM speakers were the Wet Sounds XS-650. 100W rms / 200W peakThe current version of those, would be the Revo-6.

Bow would be on Amp-1 and each rear pair wired in parallel and on Amp-2 L & R

OEM tower pods were likely the Wet Sounds Pro-60 driven by the Kicker ZX350.4 delivering IIRC, 175W rms x 2 in bridge mode.

The 750.5 is 200W x 1 @ 4 ohm and 400W x 1 @ 2 ohm for the woofer and 65W x 4 @ 4 ohm and 90W rms x 4 @ 2 ohm for the full-range chnls. These amps are prone to dropping chnls as they age, so I would not assume the bow speakers are blown and the amp is good.

Wiring: GUT and redo

OEM Amp: toss and go with a new, more efficient amp.

Woofer: JL makes a good woofer, but with its likely very mild power handling, Id prefer to step it up and have more bump. Depending on budget, this is an area where you could let the JL ride for now, and then later, upgrade to a higher output and larger woofer.

Blown or not, speakers get tired with age. IF they are not blown, lets say, this would be the last area I would upgrade, unless the budget allowed for you to just do all 3 pair along with the rest of the build.

[Justinkent83]

The list of things I need to address keeps getting longer. Such is the way when you get a new (used) boat.

I'm not sure if I should put the money into the audio now, or resolve the bow speaker situation (whatever that may be) for now and move onto other items that are arguably more important (probably).

I could probably test the bow speakers vs amplifier channel by swapping a different known good speaker to the bow channel and see how it sounds.

As for the tower speakers, the wires seem to go to where the factory amp is but I see no evidence of another amp having been mounted anywhere around there.

For now I can live without replacing the tower speaks, but I definitely want to address the bow issue.

If I can verify the channel the bow speakers ride on is ok, would you recommend upgrading the front speakers to the REVO 6 for now? If the amplifier seems to be an issue, replace the amp amd 2 speakers if needed?

I think my front ballast also leaks, got a trailer tire with a leak, looking at a FAE setup, the up arrow on the speedpass doesn't work, got a short in my trailer light wiring lol... the list keeps growing.

[Justinkent83]

I also found this in the paperwork I got with the boat. Not sure it means anything, but it was a fun little find lol.

20230717_201812.jpg

[Justinkent83]

Update: I ended up replacing the amp with a JL Audio XDM700/5 and replacing two speakers with new Revo 6s. Upon further investigation I've determined that the two starboard speakers are also damaged. The two from the bow have the spider separated from the frame. Going to try to repair them just for fun. I haven't checked the starboard speakers yet. I moved the working rear port side speakers to the bow and placed the two new Revos in the rear port side.

Also ordered an O-scope to make sure the gains were set right. Strangely enough, I didnt see any clipping from the head unit wven at max volume. I was able to detect clipping on the new amp output with the scope and set the amp output properly.

I set the LPF to 80hz with 12dB slope and the front and rear channels to 100hz on t_he HPF.

So far the setup is running very well.

[Justinkent83]

Another update. So far, the system sounds great. The configuration I am running puts 75w RMS to the bow speakers and 50w RMS to the 4 rear speakers. I've been wondering if I'd be better off going down to 2 speakers in the rear, bridging the rear to 200w RMS, then running the 2 most exposed (port side) speakers in series to maintain the 4ohm impedence. That should running 100w RMS to two speakers in the rear instead of 50w RMS to four speakers in the rear. I'm not sure which is the better play.

I did glue the spiders back down on two of the bad speakers today. I'm excited to try them just to see how it turns out.

[chpthril]

Another update. So far, the system sounds great. The configuration I am running puts 75w RMS to the bow speakers and 50w RMS to the 4 rear speakers. I've been wondering if I'd be better off going down to 2 speakers in the rear, bridging the rear to 200w RMS, then running the 2 most exposed (port side) speakers in series to maintain the 4ohm impedence. That should running 100w RMS to two speakers in the rear instead of 50w RMS to four speakers in the rear. I'm not sure which is the better play.

I did glue the spiders back down on two of the bad speakers today. I'm excited to try them just to see how it turns out.

No, because you cant. Bridging involves making two chnls into one higher output chnls. To get the higher output, you would to bridge only one 4 ohm speaker. This would basically kick the bow speakers off the amp to the head unit. To bridge two, they would need to wired in series to 8 ohms. This technically makes the amp see the same 4 ohm p/chnl load as is would with only one speaker wired to each chnls.

You are better off with more speakers (i.e. more radiating surface area) at less wattage v's less speakers at more wattage.

[Justinkent83]

Thanks Chpthril, I appreciate the feedback!

Had her out on the water yesterday. So far everything is sounding really good. Jneed to replace those last two speakers, the two on the starboard side behind the bow.

I'll leave the current wiring configuration alone and replace those two remaining speakers.

[Vettedrmr]

I'm going to bring this topic back up to the top, because my recently purchased '08 22ve has every single 6.5: speaker rotted out, including the tower speakers. Sub looks OK, but haven't been able to really check it out yet. Head unit works OK, but driver's remote display is dead (controls work), stern remote is missing. Got a lot of cosmetic refurb to do, so budget is a real factor.

I'm interested in functional, not broadcasting my tunes 1/2 mile to the other shoreline. Obviously I've got to replace all the speakers, but should I look at replacing (and rewiring) the head unit and remotes, or just replace the remotes?

[chpthril]

Do you know what model the head unit is? I cant remember what model an 08 came with but based on its age, an 80 is right on the edge of Clarion doing a revision and going from the 6-pin remote plugs to the 8-pin. If yours is the 6-pin, you would need to replace the head, remotes and extension cables in order to have functioning remotes. If its the 8-pin, remotes are still available, for the time being.

Let me know when you are ready to update the audio. I've got lots of options from Wet Sounds, Clarion, Roswell to Fusion.

[Vettedrmr]

EDIT: I've just realized I have no idea what control is on the transom. I can't find anything in the on-line Tige manual, there's no reference to it in the Clarion manual, so what exactly IS the "transom remote"?


Mike,

Here's the best data I can give you for the system. I'm getting the feeling a full redo is in order. I couldn't find any wiring in the transom other than a power and ground lead.
Head Unit Cropped.jpg

IMG_1954 resized.jpg

IMG_1953 Cropped.jpg

Thanks for your help, and have a good one,
Mike

[chpthril]

The CMD-5 has the old 6-pin cables, So along with a new media unit, you would need new remotes and extension cables.

The Clarion M608 is a solid replacement for the CMD5. As far as remotes, the MW1 is physically the same as the existing remotes, but it looks like Clarion has finally retired that model. It is gone from their site and my warehouse no longer shows any in stock. I think I may have a couple of extension cables and a Y cable on hand.

With that molded recessed helm remote spot, there are little viable options without covering the hole and relocating a unit. There are some options to cover the transom remote with another remote style.

[Vettedrmr]

Mike,

Thanks for the advice; I'm pretty much convinced I'm going to need to replace the head unit and both remotes. So (taking a deep breath thinking my wallet is about to cry), what would you recommend to replace the head unit and both remotes?

Thanks for all your help, and have a good one,
Mike B.