how to turn on Kicker amp - 2003 Tige 24v

[chpthril]

Disconnect the sub level knob cable from the amp. If the knob is an issue, the sub level will default to system level with the cable pulled.
Try moving either AMP-1 or AMP-2 RCAs over to the SUB RCA inputs.

You can measure voltage from the woofer's output terminals, but there is no expected level as its transient and volume based.

[toastie22]

Disconnect the sub level knob cable from the amp. If the knob is an issue, the sub level will default to system level with the cable pulled.
Try moving either AMP-1 or AMP-2 RCAs over to the SUB RCA inputs.

You can measure voltage from the woofer's output terminals, but there is no expected level as its transient and volume based.

ok, great, thanks for that - will try all that now.

[toastie22]

Disconnect the sub level knob cable from the amp. If the knob is an issue, the sub level will default to system level with the cable pulled.
Try moving either AMP-1 or AMP-2 RCAs over to the SUB RCA inputs.

You can measure voltage from the woofer's output terminals, but there is no expected level as its transient and volume based.

So.... unfortunately the sub level being unplugged didn't have an influence.
There's also no output voltage across the output of the Sub.
I moved the amp 2 input RCA's across to the sub input, and that didn't do anything either.
I then moved amp 1 inputs across to SUB input RCA's - also to no effect.
It seems like Amp 1 is the only one functioning.
When any of the input RCA's were plugged into either amp 2 or sub inputs, nothing came out.
The only time I'm getting audio out of the clarion speakers around the boat, is when RCA's are plugged into Amp 1 input.
Does this mean Amp 2 & sub are faulty?
I have removed and checked continuity on the three 30 amp fuses at the back of the amp, and put them all back.
Also, as mentioned in my other post regarding battery issue, I've been having problems with battery 2 running down, even when isolation switch is turned to "off" .
What I did discover is that even with the battery isolation switch in the "off" position, there's still 12v at the amp, when measured across ground & power terminals on the other end of the amp.
The amp light isn't on, but presumably that's because the Clarion isn't getting power when the iso switch is off, therefore it's not sending the wake-up trigger to the amp, but am I correct in thinking that when the iso switch is off, there shouldn't be power to the amp?, or in fact to anything, and that's why my house battery is running down so fast?
If so, then the amp must be wired up direct to the battery and not via the Iso switch.
Returning to the amp issue when the amp is on, what can I do about solving the amp 2 & sub amp not working?

Thanks so much....

[chpthril]

So, if the amps green light or badge is lit up but the red protect light is not, we can assume the amp is trying to work normal. On that amp, I think the amp-1 and amp-2 RCA have to be populated. What I cant remember, is if there is a switch for the woofer to get its signal direct from the woofer RCA or passed through from either amp-1 or amp-2. If there is a switch for this, its on the side where all the connections are, which is back on page 1 of this post and im typing on page 2. Ill look in a few.

Do all the cabin speakers play with all the RCA plugged up? Do they still all play when only amp-1 RCA are plugged in?

One test you can do to eliminate everything upstream of the amp, is to connect your phone/tablet/MP3 direct to the amp inputs using a male RCA x (what ever connection your phone has) and pump the music direct to the amp.

[toastie22]

So, if the amps green light or badge is lit up but the red protect light is not, we can assume the amp is trying to work normal. On that amp, I think the amp-1 and amp-2 RCA have to be populated. What I cant remember, is if there is a switch for the woofer to get its signal direct from the woofer RCA or passed through from either amp-1 or amp-2. If there is a switch for this, its on the side where all the connections are, which is back on page 1 of this post and im typing on page 2. Ill look in a few.

Do all the cabin speakers play with all the RCA plugged up? Do they still all play when only amp-1 RCA are plugged in?

One test you can do to eliminate everything upstream of the amp, is to connect your phone/tablet/MP3 direct to the amp inputs using a male RCA x (what ever connection your phone has) and pump the music direct to the amp.

Thanks so much for helping out with this....

Green light on the amp is on throughout.

I can't see a switch for controlling pass-thru of sub woofer audio on either end of the amp, but on the end of the amp with the inputs / outputs, there are separate RCA inputs marked for Sub, and speaker outputs marked for Sub.
The only switches I can see are the ones on the control panel for the amp (the one that you unscrew the cover to access), and that has two switches which appear to be related to Amp 1 & Amp 2, and are marked for x-over, and can be either in "off" or "high" position. Both are in "high"

It's tricky with the amp 1 / amp 2 issue muddying the waters.

All cabin speakers are working when RCA input to Amp 1 is connected.
Will check again to see if they only work when RCA inputs are connected to Amp 1, or if they work when connected to amp 2 on its own, or indeed when connected to both - I think yesterday I did this and it was only working when inputs were connected to amp 1, which is what alerted me to the possibility that amp 2 & Sub amp were not working.
Your point about the green light is noted - if Amp 2 and/or sub amp wasn't working, would / should that throw up a red light on the amp ?
I will also adjust the output level control on the amp side panel to test if each of amps 1 & 2 are functioning.
Will also pick up a lead to enable iPhone to be able to connect direct to amp RCA inputs.
Is the signal level coming out of an iPhone going to be enough to work?

What its the intention of the two amp system? Is it that each channel (L&R) would have their own amp, or is it just to enable more power to the whole system?
I haven't checked to see which cabin speakers are wired up for which channel, but presumably some are "Left" & some are "Right".
There's a fair bit of speaker cabling connected to the "Bridge" output on the amp, which I'm assuming is the cabin speakers - have had a scan of the Kicker manual, but haven't yet figured out the intention of the bridge.

Still need to figure out how / why power is getting to the amp when the isolation switch is off, and how to re-route the amp power through the isolation switch, although that might possibly be best left to a service tech.

[chpthril]

AMP-1 and AMP-2 is so you can have a front and rear sound stage or to power more speakers in general. You can only effectively and safely power a certain number of speaker per channel. Then the woofer chnl for the bass.

The logical setup is;
Bow/left on AMP-1 left
bow/right on AMP-1 rt
aft/left pair on AMP-2 left
aft/right on AMP-2 rt

Bridged is a term for using the + of one speaker output and - of the other making them one higher output channel.

You can have dead channels and not have a protect light. Ive seen amps with the normal power light on, but gave us zero output from all chnls.

[toastie22]

AMP-1 and AMP-2 is so you can have a front and rear sound stage or to power more speakers in general. You can only effectively and safely power a certain number of speaker per channel. Then the woofer chnl for the bass.

The logical setup is;
Bow/left on AMP-1 left
bow/right on AMP-1 rt
aft/left pair on AMP-2 left
aft/right on AMP-2 rt

Bridged is a term for using the + of one speaker output and - of the other making them one higher output channel.

You can have dead channels and not have a protect light. Ive seen amps with the normal power light on, but gave us zero output from all chnls.

ok great info thanks.
if it turns out the kicker is dead on amp 2 & sub, is it possibly still economic to fix or better to replace? - particularly given I'm in New Zealand.

[toastie22]

IMG_8614.jpgIMG_8614.jpg With iPhone plugged direct into Kicker Amp inputs: Amp 1 input delivers audio to all 6 cabin speakers.
Amp 2: nothing comes out of any speaker.
Sub: nothing comes through to Sub speaker.
also noticed today, that there’s 2 pairs of speaker wiring that runs up to the wake tower on the port side
There’s no speakers up there and the wiring looks to just be ready for speakers.
Could Amp 2 be wired / intended just for the tower?
Still doesn’t solve the sub not working.
there’s also what looks to be a 12v pair running up the starboard side of the tower and terminates floating loose sticking up out of the centre of the tower - might have been for a navigation light?
definitely looks like something used to be there.

[chpthril]

Sounds like someone took a less expensive route and wired all the in-boats to the channels 1 and 2, AMP-1 and then used channels 3 and 4, AMP-2, for the removed tower speakers.

Known working RCA plugged directed into woofer RCA ports, Check?
Woofer doesnt work with knob plugged in or unplugged, Check?
Woofer circuit measured about 4 ohm at the end of the line where the wires connect to the amp, Check?

Sounds like the woofer chnl is dead. You google tuning an amp with a volt meter and it will walk you through how to set it up and adjust the gain while looking for the target voltage for the amps 220W rms voltage output.

Not worth repairing given its age. Best to just replace. If you have access to Kicker, then the KXMA9005 would be the modern replacement. If not, most any 5 channel marine amp should work for you. I know JL Audio has an international market, so the M700/5 would be a suitable replacement.

Now, here is what I would do; Moving forward, the future tower speakers need their own amp. This leaves all 4 of the full-range channels to power all the cabin speakers. You may have to do some rewiring of the cabin speakers. Right now, they are likely wired in a parallel-series configuration presenting a 2.3 ohm load to each of the front channels. You will need 4 ohm load (a single speaker) for 2 chnls, then a 2 ohm load (2 speakers wired in parallel) on each of the remaining 2 chnls.

[toastie22]

Sounds like someone took a less expensive route and wired all the in-boats to the channels 1 and 2, AMP-1 and then used channels 3 and 4, AMP-2, for the removed tower speakers.

Known working RCA plugged directed into woofer RCA ports, Check? CHECK!

Woofer doesnt work with knob plugged in or unplugged, Check? Will check today - since noting the comment that the amp defaults to a standard level when the level knob is not connected, I haven't tried plugging it back in.

Woofer circuit measured about 4 ohm at the end of the line where the wires connect to the amp, Check? Will check today - I disconnected the wires from the sub woofer speaker and measured the Ohms across the speaker terminals, and checked the continuity of the speaker wires back to the amp output, but haven't checked the Ohms at the amp end of the wires with them reconnected back onto the speaker.

Sounds like the woofer chnl is dead. You google tuning an amp with a volt meter and it will walk you through how to set it up and adjust the gain while looking for the target voltage for the amps 220W rms voltage output.

Not worth repairing given its age. Best to just replace. If you have access to Kicker, then the KXMA9005 would be the modern replacement. If not, most any 5 channel marine amp should work for you. I know JL Audio has an international market, so the M700/5 would be a suitable replacement.

Now, here is what I would do; Moving forward, the future tower speakers need their own amp. This leaves all 4 of the full-range channels to power all the cabin speakers. You may have to do some rewiring of the cabin speakers. Right now, they are likely wired in a parallel-series configuration presenting a 2.3 ohm load to each of the front channels. You will need 4 ohm load (a single speaker) for 2 chnls, then a 2 ohm load (2 speakers wired in parallel) on each of the remaining 2 chnls.

ok, thanks so much for the insight & knowledge!
See above answers in red to your questions.
What separate amp would you recommend for the (future) tower speakers?
Given there's at least some good sound and reasonable volume to be had coming out of Amp 1 into all the cabin speakers, I will stick with that for now, and update the whole system further down the track.
Seems like there's no point in bothering to put tower speakers on for now either.
Will see if tuning makes any difference to getting any life out of the sub.

[toastie22]

Would be keen for anyone's insight on the issue with house battery running down.
Its still parked in the driveway, so keen to resolve before hitting the water.
The Kicker amp is definitely connected direct (with an inline fuse) to the port side battery - not via the battery switch - presumably this is so the stereo can be used at any time rather than being dependant on battery switch position?
Not sure at this point what it is that's draining that battery though - although the Kicker has a direct connect to the battery, the amp doesn't turn on till it gets the trigger via the head unit, which doesn't come on till the ignition is in accessory or ON position.

Have stood down on going any further with the "no output" issue from amp 2 & sub amp.
Will just update at some point when I add tower speakers.