how to turn on Kicker amp - 2003 Tige 24v

[toastie22]

Hi, I have just received my (new to me) 2003 Tige 24v Limited which is my first step-up to a wakeboard from an old outboard boat.
It has a Clarion head unit (CMD6) in the glove compartment, a remote on the drivers dash (both of which show music playing when I connect my iPhone to the USB cable, but there's no sound coming out of the speakers - the boat also has a Kicker amp (MX700.5), which is not showing a green light on the front, which I think it should), so I'm not sure if I'm supposed to turn some other switch on, or if the amp is triggered to be on when the head unit is on - can't seem to find a classic on/off button for the amp.
Seems likely it's my total lack of familiarity with boat stereo setups that's probably the issue (ie "user error), but would love some help to figure it out.
It appears to have a sub speaker option which is mounted on the wall at the front of the drivers foot well area, and it has a separate rotary know to control bass, mounted on the side wall between the steering wheel & the walkway. This rotary knob does not have any kind of on/off aspect, so I'm not thinking that is part of the puzzle.
thanks so much.

[chpthril]

You are going need a handheld diagnostic digital volt/ohm meter. The amp should have a constant 12V to it and the clarion supplies a low current 12V turn-on signal to tell the amp to wake up. You will need to test for voltage at the amp's main power terminals, and then at the amp's ground terminal and remote turn-on terminal.

No voltage on the main power terminals, need to trace back to the battery and switch. No voltage on the turn-on wire, trace back to the blue/wht wire at the head unit.

[mikemcclain8]

Check the fuses also, could be that simple.

Also, I have the kicker splitter that controls where the sound goes, could your knob be this:

kickersplitter.JPG


kicker.JPG

[lee]

Are you sure all wire are installed correctly on the battery from the amp. We had to take all wires off the battery before shipment.

[toastie22]

Are you sure all wire are installed correctly on the battery from the amp. We had to take all wires off the battery before shipment.

Thanks all for contributions - Lee, I will double check that first up - given, as you say, the battery connections all had to come off for the global journey, that's gotta be the most likely culprit.
mikemcclain8 - thank you SO much fo your info too - the rotary knob says bass control, so I'm thinking it probably(?) relates to the sub, but will need to get in there and have a look and follow the wiring.
Will report back.

[toastie22]

You are going need a handheld diagnostic digital volt/ohm meter. The amp should have a constant 12V to it and the clarion supplies a low current 12V turn-on signal to tell the amp to wake up. You will need to test for voltage at the amp's main power terminals, and then at the amp's ground terminal and remote turn-on terminal.

No voltage on the main power terminals, need to trace back to the battery and switch. No voltage on the turn-on wire, trace back to the blue/wht wire at the head unit.

Thanks so much for this Chpthril - I have dug out my voltmeter and will get under the dash this afternoon.
I really appreciate the access to all the knowledge that everyone collectively has on this board.
Absolutely invaluable.

[toastie22]

So, found the power issue - blown 7.5 amp fuse just by the battery. Amp operating now, but sub woofer not. There's a "Bass level" control down below the dash, but this isn't doing anything when I turn it up or down, and the sub speaker itself isn't producing any sound. the wiring is all in place coming out of the amp. Looks like the amp output for the sub is just below the bass remote cable - (I'm presuming the bass remote is going to the knob that is below the dash).
- I could do a continuity check between the sub amp outputs and the speaker for L & R wires?

[toastie22]

Check the fuses also, could be that simple.

Also, I have the kicker splitter that controls where the sound goes, could your knob be this:

[ATTACH=JSON]**"data-align":"none","data-size":"full","title":"kickersplitter.JPG","data-attachmentid":1263303}[/ATTACH]


[ATTACH=JSON]**"alt":"Click image for larger version Name:\tkicker.JPG Views:\t0 Size:\t50.2 KB ID:\t1263302","data-align":"none","data-attachmentid":"1263302","data-size":"full","title":"kicker.JPG"}[/ATTACH]

Also, forgot to mention, it doesn't appear to have the Kicker splitter system, and I checked all three of the 30amp fuses on the other end of the amp, and they're all good. Dropped one of them down the air intake hole into the bilge which wasn't ideal, (waiting on replacement duct, so the hole was open) but have replaced it.
Maybe there's a break in the line somewhere. Will look for a schematic like yours above that is based on the sub level control to see where the issue may be. I guess it could actually be the speaker open-circuit, but it seems unlikely. Will check that too.

[txmxer]

I would check the actual connections on the sub, those seem to slip off occasionally. I’ve also seen the connectors have a bad connection themselves as far as crimping or soldering.

[toastie22]

I would check the actual connections on the sub, those seem to slip off occasionally. I’ve also seen the connectors have a bad connection themselves as far as crimping or soldering.

ok, great - thanks for that txmxer - will check the section of cable where the joiners most likely are wrapped with electrical tape near the sub speaker and the connections on the speaker itself.

[chpthril]

Id go into the CMD6 menu and see what level the NON-FADE output is at. Then check the FADE setting.

[toastie22]

Thanks chpthril, will try that tomorrow. Much appreciated

[toastie22]

Have also noticed today, that the amp only gets power when the battery isolation switch is in the "1 & 2" position.
The Clarion head unit gets power in position 1 or 2 or both.
That seems slightly odd.
I'm assuming battery 1 is starter (mounted on starboard side), and battery 2 is house?
Battery on starboard side only has a couple of cables attached, but number 2 has heaps.

[chpthril]

Sounds like the amp is wired direct to one of the batteries and that battery is dead sees voltage when the switch is in the combined position.

[toastie22]

Thanks chpthril.
I've done some checking and testing....
CMD6 non-fade output is at the mid point - it's not + or - anything. You can increase it to a max of (if I remember correctly) +6 or reduce to -6, but it's at the mid point (effectively zero?).
Adjusting it up to about +4 and down to -4 made no difference to the sub.

Fader is set to "centre" - also adjusted that to favour front, then rear, but this didn't affect the sub. Still no output.
I've also disconnected the sub speaker from the cable that runs to it and then checked the speaker with the tester - it's reading 4 ohms, which is good (it's a kicker 09-KM10, 4 ohm).
Also (with amp powered off), I've checked continuity of both wires on the speaker lead that comes from the "sub" output of the Kicker amp around to the speaker, and both wires are good.
Question: I haven't checked voltage across Sub output with the amp on - can I do this, and if so, what voltage should I expect?- is there any need to disconnect the speaker wired from the sub output before doing this, or can I leave the sub connected.
I have checked each of the three 30amp fuses on the other end of the Kicker amp - they all look to be good.
Also took the cover off the Kicker amp and checked the output settings (see photo) - nothing there looks to be wildly out of whack to me.
What's the next option to trouble shoot?
Should I buy a cheap basic 4 ohm speaker and connect it to the sub-woofer output and see if the amp is working properly?