Improve sub performance

[Brianrzr]

I’m working on a fairly substantial audio upgrade project. Adding a pair of Rev 8’s, a new amp, preparing for a future amp and upgrading my 10” sub to a 12”. My plans are to move the new sub to starboard where the red shows in the two pics. In addition, I am adding another heater vent marked by green. I have heard opening the partition would improve the bass. Looking at the pic, what exactly would anybody recommend?

Secondly, more power cable. Current factory set up is positive distribution block located in starboard aft corner, two green #4 cables to current amps and red #4 to battery switch. The negative is port aft corner with two black #4 to amps among several others. My plan is to run a single #2 from power source both + and - to distribution blocks near the amps. Then branch off with #4’s to each amp. Should I have any concern about electrical noise? Since my positive distribution block is fed from the battery switch, shouldn’t I be able to connect the main positive #2 to the battery switch an eliminate the starboard aft block? It on powers the amps. I should also state I’m adding a new 170 amp Balmore alternator. I appreciate any advice.

[chpthril]

The more you can open that white wall up into the forward locker, then better. The more air space the back of the woofer has, the better it will perform.

Keep it simple. If you DO NOT currently have unwanted noise, then adding another amp will not induce noise if all you are doing is upgrading the cable gauge on the trunk line to handle the added amp. In other words, follow the electrical flow to the T, but with the larger gauge, and you will not have noise.

Disclaimer; Dont know what amps are being used, so im not saying the choses cable gauges are adequate or not.

[sandm]

fwiw that helm looks almost exactly like my old 2012 22ve. I raised the medallion panel up by 3 inches which left me enough room to build a sealed box for a jl 12w6 under there. it absolutely pounded and, although it took up a little foot room by building it low enough it gave me a place to rest my feet while driving. fit without cutting anything.
if you pm me your email address I'll see if I can find the pics of it and send them. they used to be on here but with the death of photobucket, not sure they still show up. believe I have them at home still.
I took a different approach with wiring between the boats. both prior boats had dual batteries. I wired in a 3rd off the deep cycle house battery and put it up under the passenger helm. from there I wired 1/0 to distro blocks for pos/neg and then 4ga to each amp. I only used the 1/0 as that's what I used to run from the back deep cycle to the front 3rd battery.
in our current 2020 boat, tige has buss bars in the back. I ran a 1/0 off each pos/neg to distro blocks up front and 4ga to each amp.

[Brianrzr]

I’m using a 1000w Syn6 and 2 800w Syn 4s. I’m using cable from Pacer Group with an amp rating of 210. 2600 watts x 80% = 3250 watts @ 14 volts requires 232 amps. The 170 amp Balmar alternator is rated at producing greater than 75% at idle. I figure I should not have a problem maintains 14 volts. I very seldom crank the volume, usually just to show friends what it can do and only for short periods of time. Also not being into heavy bass I think the cable should be adequate. In the future I may add a mono block for the sub.

[Bamer]

Your math is good, but is missing the amp’s conversion efficiency. The RMS power rating is for the amp’s output. The Amp will have an efficiency factor at converting DC power into AC rms music. These wetsounds amps you are using are a “digital” amp that has a higher efficiency than old school amps. These amps are a class D amp and should have an efficiency factor of .85 or so. If you are using .8 as the efficiency factor, then you should have divided by .8 and not multiplied.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Class-D_amplifier

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Bamer]

Lol. I actually looked at you’re numbers and you did the math right, used the wrong symbol....

[chpthril]

Lol. I actually looked at you’re numbers and you did the math right, used the wrong symbol....

Except that distance is left out. With DC, circuit length plays into cable gauge. Also, you cant directly convert AC wattage output to DC input amperage draw. Ohms law has to be applied loosely with audio amplifiers.